The Dera, also known as Deera, is a long, free-form dress that originated from the coast of Somalia. It has become a popular garment in Kenya, particularly in the coastal regions.
Somali women in traditional dirac dresses
The dirac (see Baati for the house dress) is a Somali[1][2][3][4][5][6][7] garment worn by Somali women that is long, usually ankle length. The dirac is most commonly worn during celebrations/special events such as weddings, parties, festivals etc. Fancier sets of dirac are sought after for weddings. It is usually made out of either chiffon, silk (which are both usually the sheerest variation of a dirac) or velvet (one of the least see-through), amongst many other materials. The baati/dirac shiid is yet another variation traditionally worn as a house dress and is made of cotton. The dirac originated from Northern Somalia, when it was created by a group of Somali women, but was popularised in the early/mid 1900s in Somalia and Djibouti. It then gradually spread to the rest of the Somali regions.
This dress is from Dar-es-salaam, Tanzania. It is commonly referred to as a ‘Dera’ or ‘Deera’ and has thin Kanga-like fabric. The Dera entered Tanzanian markets through import from India and is a design that originated from the coast of Somalia. It is a long, free-form dress that is practical in its use for warm coastal regions.
Origins and Evolution
The Dera entered Tanzanian markets through import from India and is a design that originated from the coast of Somalia.
Read also: Culture and Elegance in Prom Dresses
Although the dirac originates from the northern Somali territories, it only became fashionable among Somalis in the 1960s (Akou 2011) and among Somalis in the diaspora it has come to symbolize traditional Somali cultural dress.
The dresses are cheap as they do not require alterations or sizing from tailors and the style allows for much needed ventilation in the warm coastal region.
Sustainability and Decolonisation in Historical African Fashion
The Dera as a Practical Garment
It is a dress that one would use for casual day to day wear and for working. The dresses are cheap as they do not require alterations or sizing from tailors and the style allows for much needed ventilation in the warm coastal region. This item is not one linked with ‘fashion’ due to the lack of modern or western influence.
The Kitenge Dress
This is a kitenge dress from Arusha, in the Northern region of Tanzania. The fabric is thick and colorful and a marker of class for women in the country. The kitenge itself is likely sourced from a factory in Tanzania or in Kenya due to the vibrant colors and designs that are more commonly used in coastal areas. This dress is significant as it represents the constant ‘updates’ that can occur to traditional dress.
Before the kitenge, Kanga was the most popular fabric. It was lighter and included sayings that could be anything from religious quotes to quips to ridicule others with flare.
Read also: Cultural Wedding Traditions: Yoruba
The kitenge has acted as a social barometer and a means to mark class as well as to create an identity. The identity communicated from this dress is one that is ‘cosmopolitan’ in nature. The dress is not long, and it is sleeveless. This is a more western kind of style.
Kitenge Dress Styles
Comparison of Kanga and Kitenge
| Feature | Kanga | Kitenge |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric | Lighter | Thick and durable |
| Design | Includes sayings | Timeless designs |
| Status | Popular fabric | Marker of class |
Read also: Cultural Significance: Ghana's Dress
