The Chocolate Block: A South African Cult Classic Wine Review

Let's be honest - who browsing the wine aisle wouldn’t be intrigued by a wine called "The Chocolate Block"? The name evokes curiosity and perhaps even a touch of skepticism. But this South African cult classic has proven, over the past two decades, there’s more to this wine than just a clever label.

The Chocolate Block is a red wine that embodies all the charm and character of wines being reimagined by new winemakers in South Africa.

Released in the early 2000s, before the era of flashy wine marketing, The Chocolate Block resonated with consumers seeking a taste of something new without seeming overly aggressively marketed. This wine became more popular than Marc’s wildest dreams. Perhaps it was a combination of the catchy name, the wine’s quality and simply good timing.

The Chocolate Block 2021 - 20th Vintage Release

The History and Heritage

The Chocolate Block is produced by Boekenhoutskloof Winery (pronounced Book-en-hawt-kloof) and nestled in the scenic wine capital of South Africa - Franschhoek Valley (meaning "French Corner" in Dutch). Interestingly, Franschhoek's winemaking heritage dates back to the late 1600s when French Protestants, fleeing religious persecution under King Louis XIV, sought refuge in a whole other continent.

Boekenhoutskloof Winery was founded in 1776, the same year the United States claimed independence. Franschhoek, where this wine is from, is Dutch for "French Corner" and it's located in the southwest of South Africa. It was settled by French Huguenot immigrants in 1688 and since then viticulture and winemaking has been an important part of their culture.

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Boekenhoutskloof itself was established in 1776, but it wasn't until a restoration in 1993 and the acquisitions of vineyards around South Africa by visionary winemaker Marc Kent and his partners, that the estate truly began to shine. Their mission?

The name Boekenhoutskloof means "ravine of Book-n-howed", Boekenhout being a native tree popular for making furniture. It was bought and renovated by the current ownership in 1993, the same year Jurassic Park and Mrs. Doubtfire were released. Coincidence?

The Swartland Terroir

One of the key elements that defines The Chocolate Block is its origin in the Swartland region. In 2015 Boekenhoutskloof shifted from general appellation Western Cape to Wine of Origin Swartland. The significance is that they can directly manage most of the fruit being vinified for The Chocolate Block and farm the vineyards using their sustainable approach to viticulture. After over a decade of working with these Swartland vineyards, their Porseleinberg and Goldmine farms represent about 60% of the fruit in the final blend.

The Swartland is a rugged landscape that was once better known for wheat fields than vineyards. And unlike wine regions that are well-irrigated, vineyards in Swartland tend to embrace a dry-farmed approach. Vines fend for themselves with only natural rainfall, stressing the vines, forcing them to dig deep for water, resulting in smaller berries packed with concentrated flavour and higher phenolic content. The name "Swartland" itself means "black land," a reference to the dark, fertile soils that turn almost obsidian after the winter rains.

The Winemaking Philosophy

Boekenhoutskloof thus drew inspiration from a Rhône-centric approach to winemaking. One of the most famous wines of northern Rhône, the Côte-Rôtie, is a Syrah-focused blend which French winemakers often blend a small percentage of Viognier (a white grape) to add floral aromas, enhance fruitiness, and lift the overall bouquet.

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Back in 2002, Marc Kent was experimenting with a new blend which combined Syrah for spice and aroma, Grenache for freshness and acidity, Cabernet Sauvignon for tannins and structure, Cinsault for fruitiness and a touch of Viognier - a nod to the Côte-Rôtie. However, Marc’s wine was missing a name. After a conversation with an Australian wine merchant friend, Tony Allen, the name “The Chocolate Block” was suggested. This was a playful reference to the potential chocolate notes that can develop in well-aged Grenache.

Tasting Notes

At least 20 vintages of The Chocolate Block have been released till date.

Nose: Actually reminiscent of dark chocolate, with tons of richness, sweetness and a subtle spice. It’s got this unusually sweet oakiness that evokes the scent of a warm chocolate lava cake and dark cherries.

Palate: Bold and medium-bodied, this wine coats the tongue with firm yet polished tannins. Sweet dark fruits take centre stage, particularly dark cherries and dried cranberries, complemented by a pronounced oakiness akin to dark chocolate shavings and hazelnut. There’s a subtle liquorice note alongside the spice of some coriander seeds.

Surprisingly, this wine really does evoke the spirit of chocolate, even though it doesn't directly taste like it. It’s bold, it’s decadent with a lasting impression and drinking it does feel like you’re indulging in a rich, dark treat. It's one of those rich, bold and decadent wines that I’d at least have a bottle in my cellar.

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I feel like the color of this wine is the same color that Prince has for his satin bed sheets. It's not purple and it's not red... it's purple-red. Is there another word for purple-red?

The nose is all about the earthiness and I friggin love that. There's dirt, wet moss, cedar, leather, mocha, raspberry, and black olive. The more you swirl the more the black olive comes out to play. I can tell this is another wine I'll spend more time smelling than tasting.

At first the palate is smokey, as I expect from South Africa, but that pulls back as it opens up until it's just hanging out in the background. There's quite a bit of minerality and currant. Every once in awhile I get a hit of big, juicy red cherry that sends my eyes rolling to the back of my head in pleasure. What? The tannins are soft but the wine is incredibly rich. It's full bodied with balanced acidity. It finishes with raspberry... and lots of long-lasting espresso.

Vintage Overviews

  • The Chocolate Block 2023: Unveils a powerful and intricate character. On the nose, it reveals a symphony of aromas ranging from fresh red berries, juicy blackberry, to a vibrant hint of orange peel, all wrapped in a delicate veil of dark chocolate and spices such as clove and nutmeg. Upon tasting, its entry is silky and enveloping, filling the palate with ripe black and red fruits that blend with perfectly balanced acidity. The tannins integrate smoothly with the spicy and woody notes, leaving a lingering and enveloping finish.
  • The Chocolate Block 2022: Captivates with its blend of intense aromas, where dominant notes of chocolate and mocha intertwine with the sweetness of ripe blackberries and the vibrant hint of black pepper. On the palate, it reveals its full-bodied character, balanced by smooth, polished tannins that impart a silky texture.
  • The Chocolate Block 2021: Is a red wine with intense aromas reminiscent of ripe black fruits (blueberries, plums, blackcurrants) on the nose, accompanied by notes of lavender and a soft earthy nuance. The palate is robust and well-structured, with a distinctive tannin reminiscent of cocoa powder that adds texture.
  • 2020 Chocolate Block 2020: Is a wine that seduces on the nose with aromas of black fruit, pepper and spices. A palate full of flavors of plum, graphite and cocoa. A concentrated and elegant wine with well-integrated acidity and fine tannins.
  • 2018 The Chocolate Block 2018: Is a concentrated red wine with aromas of ripe dark fruit, smoky notes and hints of wood. On the palate it is fruity, silky and meaty.

Scores and Reviews

Natalie's Score: 93/100 From Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block 2023 is a bold, vegan-friendly red blend centered on Syrah, sourced from the esteemed Goldmine and Porseleinberg vineyards. Complemented by 9% Grenache, 8% Cinsault, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Viognier, it delivers an enticing aromatic profile of ripe red berries, dark cherry, and rich cocoa, framed by a touch of cinnamon spice. Silky tannins provide a luxurious texture, making it a compelling choice to enjoy through 2032, especially alongside braised short ribs or grilled portobello mushrooms.

KWG Score: 91 (based on 3 reviews)

Ken's Wine Rating: Very Good+ (92)

93 pts Tim Atkin MW 2023: A skilfully blended and packaged wine that manages to shift large volumes at an extremely profitable price, The Chocolate Block is a clever assemblage of mostly Syrah from the Goldmine and Porseleinberg vineyards with 9% Grenache, 8% Cinsault, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Viognier. Fleshy, perfumed and smooth, it has sweet goji berry and summer pudding fruit, velvety tannins, scented cinnamon oak and a fresh, lifted finish. 2024-29

91 pts James Suckling Oct 2023: Bay leaves, currants, and violets on the nose with a touch of iron. It’s medium- to full-bodied, balanced and supple. I like the herb and peppercorn freshness. Blend of 77% syrah, 9% grenache, cinsault, 5% cabernet sauvignon and 1% viognier. Drink now.

90 pts Vinous Sept 2023: The 2022 The Chocolate Block comprises Syrah (77%, which is slightly higher than usual), Grenache (9%), Cinsault (8%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) and Viognier (1%), with around 70% of the production estate-grown. It is a whole berry fermented, matured in 95% used French oak using the “OXO” system to rotate the barrels. It has an attractive, well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, mocha, and crushed violet scents (no aromas of dark chocolate). The medium-bodied palate has powdery tannins, very well-balanced and fresh, with a surprisingly tensile, engaging graphite-tinged finish. An exemplar of how to create a hugely popular brand whilst upholding quality.

Wine Composition and Details

The bottle is tall with broad shoulders and the label is very simplistic. It just says "The Chocolate Block" at the top, then there's a great white vastness reminiscent of Robert Frost's Stopping By Woods on a Snowy Evening.

Here are some key details about the wine:

  • Winery: Boekenhoutskloof
  • Vintage: Varies (e.g., 2020, 2022, 2023)
  • Wine Name/Vineyard: "The Chocolate Block"
  • Wine Category: South African (Red Blend)

Grape blend:

  • 73% Syrah, 11% Grenache, 8% Cinsault, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon & 1% Viognier (example for 2020 vintage)
  • Syrah 77% • Grenache 9% • Cinsault 8% • Cabernet Sauvignon 5% • Viognier 1% (Tasting Notes)
  • Bottle size: 750 ml
  • Region: Swartland
  • State or country: South Africa
  • Price: $40 (approximate)
  • Cases produced: 10,545
  • Alcohol content14.91%
  • Aged in wood. 13 meses en barrica.
  • AllergensContains sulfites

Food Pairings

Our wine experts think this South African Red wine would be a match made in heaven with these dishes. Bon appétit!

From Boekenhoutskloof, The Chocolate Block 2023 is a compelling choice to enjoy through 2032, especially alongside braised short ribs or grilled portobello mushrooms. I would pair this Syrah based blend with smoked brisket or burnt ends.

It shows massive floral perfume with underlying redcurrant, cedar, black pepper, coriander spice and hints of Turkish Delight.

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tags: #Africa