Experience the Best Camping Safari in Kenya

Kenya offers a diverse range of safari experiences, from classic wildlife viewing to immersive cultural interactions. Standard tour operator itineraries shuttle you from park to park with a gruelling schedule of game drives.

Yes, this is the best way of seeing large mammals up close, but the bumpy tracks, early starts and long hours quickly exhaust even the most ardent wildlife-watcher. And there is so much more to safari in Kenya that you’ll miss from racing around in a jeep. Break it up. Look for operators who offer bush walks, village visits, and conservation projects.

To me, this is the exact opposite of how it should be done! In my experience, a good trip to Kenya isn't just about seeing wildlife: it should put intimate, authentic interactions with local people at the heart of the whole experience. You can make genuine connections and real friendships as you sit around, sharing stories, laughing and learning from each other.

Instead, hop on a bus and head out to one of the numerous small market towns where most Kenyans live. Many safari goers, especially those on a high end tour just bounce from one heavenly safari camp to another. Sure, you live the Hollywood Africa dream but you’ve not really experienced real Kenya.

Finding authentic, community-run homestays can be a bit of a minefield. For a cultural experience you’ll never forget, try spending a night at a Maasai homestay near the Masai Mara. In my opinion, one of the big problems with the safari industry is the way it prioritises seeing wildlife over having meaningful connections with local people. In fact, other than being served by their guides, drivers and camp employees, a typical safari-goer might not have any interaction with a local at all.

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On the other hand, mainstream Kenya safaris are often sold with "village tour" or even "slum tour" add-ons. These "goldfish bowl safaris" as I call them are unethical and nothing short of exploitation. They violate the privacy, integrity and dignity of local communities and undermine sustainable development by perpetuating a myth of backward, poverty-stricken people. The traveller thinks they're doing the right thing by getting some cultural interaction, but in reality it's deeply damaging.

Choosing Your Safari Style

There are almost as many different ways of doing a safari as there are stripes on a zebra and how, when and where you safari makes a huge difference to what you pay. Expect to pay anything from $150 to $1,000+ per person per day. You can find very low budget two or three day safaris to the Mara from around $250 all in, but these are generally rushed, crowded and uncomfortable. My other big Keny safari tip is to spend as much as your budget allows on fewer nights in better conservancies and camps.

There are three broad categories of safaris in Kenya.

  1. The first and easiest option is to book a week(s)-long, multi-stop itinerary through a tour operator, either locally-based or international. This provides the most hand-holding and support for cautious visitors, plus more protection should things go wrong. The potential downside is getting shunted onto one of the more formulaic itineraries and simply following the crowds around the most popular parks.
  2. Secondly you can simply show up and book a safari tour once in-country from the hundreds of operators in Nairobi. There’s nothing inherently wrong with doing it this way but I strongly advise you don’t just book something in the street. Do your homework first and find a reputable, responsible operator.
  3. Thirdly, and probably my recommendation for all but the most cautious of visitors, is to book the accommodation yourself, rent a car (or a car plus driver), and head out solo. You can take your own camping gear or book into lodges or camps (booking ahead is essential!), or mix camping with more comfortable nights in lodges. I strongly advise renting a vehicle plus driver. It’s often cheaper plus you get an unofficial local guide who knows the ropes.

When you ask if it's "safe" that depends a little on what you mean. Yes, it's perfectly easy to do a self-drive Kenya safari. If you mean are there bandits, car jackings, dangers from wildlife, etc, then no you are quite safe. I'd recommend hiring a car with a driver, which can be a cheaper and, in my opinion, a much better option. A good driver will know the lay of the land, the driving conditions, best places to stop for lunch, etc. And they are often knowledgeable of the wildlife. Almost any tour company in Nairobi or Mombasa can organise a private vehicle with a driver.

Standards and prices vary hugely, so explain to the tour company exactly where you want to go and get in writing exactly what is and isn't included. Pay particular attention as to whether fuel, and the drivers food and accommodation is included in the rates.

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High season in Kenya is the peak summer months of July to September, before the rains begin.

National Parks, Reserves, and Conservancies: Understanding the Differences

National parks, reserves and conservancies are mentioned a lot in this guide, but just what is the difference and why does it matter?

  • A national park or reserve is a government or local council run protected area. Most of the best-known protected areas in Kenya fall into this category. These areas are run solely for the benefit of wildlife and tourism, sometimes at the expense of local people.
  • Tourism in these areas creates jobs, but locals are often forbidden from entering these protected areas other than for work reasons and communities were often (but not always) removed from their land when the parks and reserves were created. Corruption can be a problem with the money generated by these parks not always going where it should.
  • A conservancy is a different affair. A conservancy is normally located on either communal land owned by the community as a whole or on private ranch land and has no official government status. On a community conservancy the tourism stakeholders (i.e. the safari camps) lease the land from the local communities on the condition that the land is managed in a manner that is of benefit to both people and animals.
  • The (normally very high) fees you pay to stay in a conservancy go toward paying the land leasing fees as well as various community and environmental projects. Other conservancies may be located on private ranchland, in which case they have to make enough money for the landowner to financially justify turning his land over to wildlife conservation over cattle ranching.

In other words, a conservancy is run for the benefit of both wildlife conservation, tourism and the needs of local communities (in many cases local people are allowed to continue to graze their cattle on a conservancy but in a controlled and sustainable manner).

In the most basic of terms these are like private, community-run wildlife reserves. Conservancy operators lease the land from local people and each local family receives a guaranteed monthly payment. The conservancy also provides employment and sets up development projects. People continue to graze their cattle but in a more controlled manner. And in return, fences are removed and the wildlife encouraged to return to the lands they were once driven out of.

The conservancies have been a great success both for wildlife and local people. And, for tourists, they offer a very exclusive experience and the world's finest safaris. Each conservancy has only a handful of very discreet high end camps and only guests of those camps can go on a safari in the conservancy, which means crowds of vehicles around a lion are non-existent.

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The conservancies also allow activities not permitted within the reserve such as walking (highly recommended), bush camping, night safaris, etc. This makes them ideal for kids because it breaks up the routine and allows a little more freedom. The safari vehicles and guides used in the conservancies are absolutely the best in the game and the wildlife populations are the equal of t...

Top Safari Destinations in Kenya

Most standardised Kenya safari itineraries reduce the entire country to the blockbuster highlights: the Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru… maybe Tsavo and Samburu if they’re feeling adventurous. This does a great disservice to the country’s true diversity.

  • Masai Mara: Not only can visitors experience authentic cultural interactions with the Maasai people but also witness one of nature's biggest spectacles: the Wildebeest Migration from about July to November.
  • Amboseli National Park: Amboseli National Park is the postcard park of Kenya. This is where those photographs are taken of elephants with a backdrop of the (fast melting!) glaciers of Mt Kilimanjaro. The elephants and the scenery are the real highlights of this park.
  • Lake Nakuru National Park: Just 5 kilometres from the big city of Nakaru, Lake Nakuru National Park’s accessibility makes it one of the most popular Kenya safari hotspots. The park is best known for its sometimes huge flocks of flamingos and a large rhino population. Back in the 1990’s, Lake Nakuru was the first place where I saw a really huge flock of flamingos. I’d seen the odd handful before, but the thousands upon thousands I saw here on that day sticks in my memory.
  • Tsavo East and West National Parks: Combined, Tsavo East and West National Parks cover an enormous swathe of acacia scrub Kenyan wilderness. Despite being directly adjacent, the two parks are radically different from one another with the green hills of Tsavo East a marked contrast to the red soil and volcanic landscapes of Tsavo West. Because of their diversity and sheer size, I strongly recommend you devote enough time to the parks if you’re going to visit them.
  • Laikipia Plateau: The Laikipia plateau area in central Kenya is one of the most exciting places in African conservation. Laikipia hosts all the classic East African safari mammals but is best known for its rhinos, including the critically endangered northern white rhino, only two of which are left alive. Both are female and so, tragically, this is a species awaiting extinction.
  • Nairobi National Park: It’s a fabulous safari destination but is woefully overlooked by international visitors to Kenya. And while it doesn’t have a boating lake, it does have lions. Elephants, in particular, are the main event here. And buffalo. And rhinos. It’s biggest ‘park’ is in fact a 117 square kilometre swathe of undulating savannah grassland and acacia woodland. This is a shame, because Nairobi National Park is an excellent safari location in its own right. I have been many times, often just for a quick half-day drive from the city.
  • Meru National Park: Meru, the country’s forgotten national park, is easily one of my favourite of all Kenya’s safari parks. Security and stability have long since returned, yet somehow this park never returned to its former fame. This is the place to see large prides of black-manned lions, bellowing elephants, grumpy buffalo and a pick ‘n’ mix box of antelope and gazelles. And that’s before we even touch on the smaller creatures and huge array of birds.
  • Kakamega Forest Reserve: For instance, out in the far west is Kakamega Forest Reserve which has more in common with the rainforests of Uganda and the Congo than the classic Kenya landscape.
  • Aberdare National Park: Another personal favourite that’s a world away from the classic Kenya savannah is Aberdare National Park where dense tangled montane jungle gives way to a high, cold and often bleak moorland. Unusually among Kenyan national parks, you can also get out of the vehicle here and enjoy long, lonely hikes over the moorlands.
  • Samburu National Reserve: For your requirements of a different habitat and wildlife then without doubt I would suggest Samburu National Reserve. This is a much drier and hotter area than the Mara with different vegetation and animals. And, even the animals you might have seen in the Mara are different up here with different species of giraffe, zebra and ostrich all present (and in my opinion all more beautiful than the kinds in the Mara). The park is also superb for elephants.

Tips for Traveling with Children

If most of the children in your group are very young, your options are fairly limited as the reality is that a longer, multi-day safari can be a bit much with very young kids. I first did a safari with my kids when they were five and two years old and although it was good I probably wouldn't do it again! Past the age of about eight or nine the safari experience gets much easier, as they'll will tolerate sitting in a jeep on a bumpy road for longer.

Do be aware that some safari camps don't accept children below the age of 12. These are normally the unfenced camps and it's done for safety reasons. You will also need to keep in mind that you will either need several safari jeeps and to travel in convoy or a bus (and these aren't always allowed in some parks). Because you will be travelling with so many children I would suggest small safari camps which you can book out for your group alone. Some of these are more child friendly than others.

As for specific parks and reserves the Masai Mara area is good because there's a lot of animals to see everywhere you look which keeps children interested. Also good are Nairobi and Narok national parks because of easy access and good roads.

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Accommodations in Masai Mara

  • Mahali Mzuri: Located in the world-famous Maasai Mara ecosystem in the path of the annual Great Migration, the camp is within the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. Mahali Mzuri offers an exclusive safari experience in the heart of the Maasai Mara ecosystem. Each of the 12 luxury tents, along with the dining, bar, and lounge areas, blends refined comfort with sweeping views of the plains.
  • Elephant Pepper Camp: The very spacious canvas tents at Elephant Pepper Camp feature en suite dressing rooms and bathrooms, and private pit fireplaces for dining under the stars. Also expect little extras like hammocks, hot-water bottles and beautiful brass fittings from India.
  • Kichwa Tembo: Kichwa Tembo is a much-loved Masai Mara safari lodge.
  • Mara Intrepids: Mara Intrepids is a fenced Masai Mara lodging on the shady banks of the Talek River, the perfect escape for families with children.
  • Angama Mara: Perched in the gorgeous hills of the Mara Triangle escarpment lies one of the best Masai Mara hotels. The exclusive Angama Mara is famous as the location of Robert Redford and Meryl Streep's romantic picnic scene in the movie, Out of Africa.
  • Naboisho Camp: A classic and intimate Masai Mara lodging originally established as a community initiative, Naboisho Camp is situated in a private conservancy that limits the number of vehicles allowed. Enjoy exciting game drives during the day, in search of Africa's iconic animals and to witness the Wildebeest Migration between about July and November.
  • Olonana: Romantic and secluded, Olonana is hidden within a forest along a private stretch of the Mara River and one of the best Masai Mara hotels. It's a popular choice for honeymooners but also offers first-class family-friendly accommodation.
  • Il Moran: Arguably one of the best Masai Mara safari lodges, Il Moran's forest setting is a wonderful retreat for honeymooners. Ten luxurious tents are dotted along the Mara River beneath the shady canopy of evergreen trees. Inside you'll find super king-sized beds, beautifully constructed from fallen olive trees.

Itinerary Example

Here is an example of a safari itinerary:

DayLocationActivity
1NairobiArrive at any time.
2Nairobi/Samburu National ReserveTravel to Samburu National Reserve in time for an afternoon wildlife safari drive.
3Samburu National ReserveSpend a full day on safari in search of Samburu's special five.
4Samburu National Reserve/Lake Nakuru National ParkDescend into the Great Rift Valley enjoying stunning views of the escarpment on the way.
6Lake Nakuru National Park/Masai MaraTravel to the Masai Mara National Reserve.
7Masai MaraEnjoy a day on safari.

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