Bread is ubiquitous on the African continent and has a long history in Africa, with evidence of early bread-making dating back to ancient Egypt. The bread-making tradition spread throughout North Africa and into other parts of the continent over time, with each region developing its unique bread culture and recipes. Bread continues to be a staple food in many African countries, with traditional varieties still widely consumed, along with Western-style bread. In recent years, there seems to be a resurgence of interest in traditional bread-making techniques and ingredients, as well as efforts to improve access to bread and other staple food items on the African Continent.
From the Nigerian perspective, bread was first introduced to Nigeria during the colonial era by European missionaries and traders. It was mainly consumed by the wealthy and expatriates as it was considered a luxury food item. During the 1960s and 1970s, more commercial bakeries were established in Nigeria, and the popularity of bread as a staple food item increased. This was due to the availability of wheat flour and the growing middle class who were able to afford bread.
Furthermore, the Nigerian government in the 1980s initiated a policy to encourage local production of wheat flour to reduce dependence on imports. This led to the establishment of flour mills and an increase in the availability of locally produced wheat flour, which contributed to the growth of the bread industry in Nigeria. Today, bread is a staple food item in Nigeria, and it is consumed by people of all socio-economic strata.
There are many different types of bread available, including white bread, whole wheat bread, and specialty bread such as Agege bread, which is a popular type of bread in Lagos. Agege bread is ubiquitous. It appears Agege bread was made popular by beans hawkers in the 1970s or so.
Any West African would easily admit to you about his or her undying and unending love for bread. We eat bread with a devotion and passion that is unmatched. The softer the bread is; the merrier we are. The softer the bread is, the easier the gastronomic combination (combo) would be.
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What types of combos have West Africans conjured up with bread?
- Bread and eggs (eggs in all its appearances and guises).
- Bread and akara (if you don’t know what akara is; you don’t know.) Akara is fried beans after it has been grinded.
- Bread and butter is another banger.
- The general overseer of the bread combo; is bread and beans especially when it is specially prepared beans.
You see the locally prepared beans in Nigeria differ amongst tribes. Also, the locally prepared or indigenous beans prepared in several West African countries differ. There are some things that cannot be explained except experienced.
With such tastebuds’ experiences, one is left in a limbo and quagmire as you try to search and actually go in search of that delicious bread, your tastebuds have been used to. And when you do find that which you had been searching for, shouting Hallelujah is befitting and appropriate.
There is something about the packaging of delicious loaves of bread which indicates if the bread would be delicious or not even before you taste it. West Africans just know it.
West Indians in Nigeria: Amos Shackleford
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The story of West Indians in Nigeria is a complex one that dates back to the mid-nineteenth century. In 1872, there were 68 West Indians living in Lagos, and by 1921, there were 194 due to workers coming over to build the railways. Many West Indians did not integrate with native Nigerians but instead found community in other “non-native foreigners”. It wasn’t always a smooth return for the displaced diaspora, with many English-speaking returnees internalising damaging ideas about Africans from their colonial masters. These differences were institutionalised by the Saro people, who acted as middlemen between the colonial officials and indigenous Nigerians.
My great-great-grandfather, Amos Shackleford, was enamoured by Nigeria. He was born on December 12, 1887, in the Maroons - free communities of Africans who’d escaped from slavery and resided in the mountains of Charles Town, Jamaica. Shackleford had intentions bigger than simply moving for work. The continent had an undeniable pull for him from childhood, that was thought to stem from his Maroon roots and later solidified by his interests in the teachings of Marcus Garvey, who created a ‘Back to Africa’ movement in the United States.
In her paper, A Jamaican Export To Nigeria! While in Nigeria, he didn’t shy away from politics. He had strongly-held beliefs in anti-colonialism, but disapproval of these sentiments by colonial authorities meant there were limits to expressing them. The Lagos branch of the United Negro Improvement Association was founded by Shackleford in 1920, and was heavily populated by West Indians. The group were much more business-oriented than politically inclined.
During the 1920s depression, after training as an accountant, Shackleford left the world of business to pursue a new career in baking. His bread empire spread across Nigeria and Ghana, to the extent that the word ‘Shackleford’ was synonymous with ‘bread’ for non-English speaking Lagosians.
Shackleford introduced mechanised baking through the famous dough brake machine and formed an organised independent vendor system that allowed for the wide-reaching distribution of bread. Soon after, Alhaji Ayokunnu set up his own bakery, naming it ‘Agege’.
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Shackleford’s legacy as Nigeria’s ‘Bread King’ is immortalised by the Wheatbaker Hotel in Ikoyi Lagos which used to be his home.
Shackleford is just one story of the many West Indians that moved to Africa to learn and reconnect with their heritage. He is a reminder to me that my politics and belief in black liberation must be an international one, beyond my own material reality in the west. The diaspora is wonderfully different, and we should appreciate that it is important to interrogate our ideas of each other, as colonialism tried to wedge barriers between us.
Agege Bread: A Cultural Icon
Learn the history of Agege bread, a popular Nigerian Bread. Agege Bread is beyond a loaf of bread; it’s a cultural food icon in Nigeria, especially in Lagos. This sweet and fluffy bread isn’t loved by Lagosians alone but by visitors from other states and countries. Agege Bread is no longer as popular as it used to be due to the production of other kinds of bread like Slice Bread, Coconut Bread, Wheat Bread, and more by modernized bakeries.
Agege Bread is a sweet and fluffy bread, that originated from Agege in Lagos, Nigeria. It is well-yeasted and left to rise until it attains a desired texture before being baked in a rectangular pan.
Texture: Agege Bread has a classic dense texture that makes it stand out from other breads. It is soft, hearty, and thick - Lagosians will say “ki” to describe its thickness. Imagine eating a loaf of bread with stew but the bread doesn’t soak up the stew the way you want, that’s not the texture of Agege bread.
Freshness: If you live in Lagos, you must have seen how those women called bread sellers, carry a tray arranged with fresh Agege Bread in a circular manner around. And the way they always say, “na today bread, dem just comot am from oven” when you ask them if the bread is fresh.
Nostalgia: There’s this nostalgic feeling that comes with eating Agege Bread - it’s just a wonderful feeling that you can only embrace when you eat the bread.
Pairings: You must have tried other pieces of bread with different local dishes, but have you tried Agege bread with local dishes like Moin Moin, Akara, and Ewa agoyin? If not, then you should!
Stand-Alone Snack: Agege Bread can be enjoyed alone.
Affordability: How Agege Bread is priced for all income levels, making it a staple in homes.
Ubiquity: Is there anywhere you go in Lagos today, and you won’t find Agege Bread?
Symbol of Lagos: This Nigerian Bread is not just a food, but a symbol of Lagos’s (Agege’s) vibrant culture and entrepreneurial spirit.
In 1913, a visionary named Amos Shackleford who was a Jamaican immigrant entered Lagos and introduced the art of baking. He moved to the port of Lagos, right in the middle of Ebute-Meta to start a new life. But his bread-making skills not only helped him start a new life after he left his job at the Nigerian Railway Corporation, but it also marked the beginning of a revolution in bread-making in Nigeria.
Fast forward to 1920, Amos Shackleford eventually set up a bakery in Ebute-Meta, Lagos state. Surprisingly, Agege bread became an instant hit, and the people of Agege were the first to fall in love with it. They didn’t stop talking about its thickness, fluffiness, and how hearty it was, and because of that, there was a rise in demand for the bread beyond Ebute-Meta.
During the time the bakery was in function, it provided significantly to the bread needs of locals in Agege - Vans and Buses were used to deliver the bread in large numbers from Ebute-Meta to Agege.
But despite the huge success Amos Shackleford had with the bread, his bakery got suspended after being faced with challenges right after Nigeria’s independence in 1960. The bakery was closed down and Agege Bread became scarce and was finally gone from the market. But shortly after other local entrepreneurs began to open their bakeries.
It’s a known fact that Agege Bread got its name after the bakery’s location. Alhaji Ayokunnu catered to the needs of people regarding Agege Bread right after the closure of the Shackleford in 1960 - he stepped in to fill the void.
His business approach was not selfish-driven, it was both community and entrepreneur-driven. Aside from ensuring the bread retained its signature texture and flavor as Shackleford did, Alhaji Ayokunnu strategically branded the bread “Agege Bread,” tying the product to the community.
He also hired the residents of Agege to work in his bakery and paid them daily wages to hawk bread on the streets. The sight of hawkers holding large trays with the bread arranged in a circular pattern with Jago or Blue band butter in the middle of the bread is still an endearing part of a Lagosian life.
Other bakeries began to copy Alhaji’s method, making the bread omnipresent everywhere on the streets of Agege and Lagos at large. As demand grew, other bakeries began to replicate Ayokuunu’s methods, leading to the widespread availability of Agege Bread across Lagos.
Although Agege Bread began as a Lagos Bread, its fame has gone far beyond Lagos to other parts of the country. Different cities in Nigeria now have bakeries that replicate the signature texture and flavor of Agege Bread.
Also, the Nigerian diaspora has taken Agege Bread with them, spreading their love for the bread by opening up international African stores where Agege bread is being sold. If you search online now, you’ll see that Agege Bread has found a place in both the local and international culinary discussions - you’ll see food blogs and YouTube channels now exploring African cuisine without leaving Agege Bread out of the discussion.
Agege Bread isn’t just a Lagos street food; it’s a story of how resilience and the help of a community can create something that will never be forgotten in history.
The Enduring Appeal of Agege Bread
As a Symbol of Lagos: Agege Bread is a symbol of Lagos that shows the resilience, hustle, and ingenuity of the people of Lagos.
Social Impact: The rise of Agege Bread through Alhaji Ayokunnu had a great impact on local economics. From hiring Agege Bread factory workers to bakers, to street hawkers, Agege Bread production has provided job opportunities for hundreds of individuals. Just like how Alhaji Ayokunnu employed the residents of Agege to work for him and helped in the distribution of Agege Bread throughout Lagos.
Emotional Connection: I can write another whole article on how Agege Bread creates an emotional connection. I guess that’s how it is for everyone - you feel connected to what you grow up with. You know that feeling you get when you sit at the breakfast table with your family, watching as everyone tears into the soft bread and pairs it with any side dish of their choice, isn’t that one of the best feelings ever?
Agege bread is not just a meal; it’s that particular street food you share with friends, that meal you always eat during breakfast with family, and a personal treat you get for yourself from one of the hawkers on the street after a long stressful day.
Have you ever tried Agege Bread with other Nigerian Food?
- Egg Sauce: The Nigerian Egg sauce is prepared by cooking the egg in tomatoes, peppers, onions, and spices. A classic way to enjoy your Agege Bread with this - is sandwiching your bread with the egg sauce.
- Akara (Bean Cakes): Nigerian bean fritters are a popular Nigerian and African vegan street food loved by many Nigerians. This can be taken with Agege bread only by sandwiching the bread with it.
- Moin Moin: Moin Moin is a traditional Nigerian meal made by blending beans, onions, peppers, spices, and other ingredients.
- Stews and Soup: This dense texture meal is made with several ingredients and lots of proteins like fish, meat, eggs, or even cowskins.
- Pair with Beans A.KA Ewa-agoyin: This one, I believe, is one of the most preferable ways to enjoy eating Agege bread.
The ancient method of preparing Agege bread from the days of Shackleford remains. Bakers use low-yeast dough, leaving the dough to rise until it develops its unique texture. The bread’s shape is dependent on the kind of pan used in baking it, but the specific pan used in baking Agege bread is the rectangular-shaped pan that comes in different sizes.
In case you want to try Agege Bread but can’t find it around you, you should try out this Recipe available online - it offers a step-by-step guide to creating a perfect Agege bread while retaining its value and authenticity.
Q&A about Agege Bread
Q: Why is Agege Bread so popular in Nigeria?
Q: What is Agege Bread made of?
A: Agege Bread is made of flour, sugar, yeast, butter, and water.
Q: Can I make Agege Bread at home?
A: Of course! You can make Agege Bread at home at your convenience using basic ingredients.
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