The choice and condition of substrate is important because your tortoise spends all of his time on it when indoors. Choosing the right substrate is crucial for maintaining a healthy environment for your Sulcata tortoise. If it's too wet, he can develop shell rot, respiratory infections, and other health problems. If it's too dry, he can become dehydrated. Also, if you have asthma or allergies, it must be something that doesn't make you feel sick! What works well for one tortoise keeper, may not work in another person's setup.
You'll need to adjust your care and substrate choice based on your tortoise species, type of indoor setup, room humidity, and room temperature level. You should exercise care to keep your tortoise's food substrate free regardless of what substrate you choose. No loose bedding is 100% safe to eat in large quantities, unless it's an actual food item like dried grass or edible leaf litter. Any non-food substrate may possibly cause intestinal obstructions if it is consumed in large enough quantities.
Sulcata tortoises are a beautiful species of large tortoise found throughout eastern and southern Africa. Of all the larger species of tortoise available, the docile and social nature of the Sulcata tortoise makes it a great choice for keepers that have the space to accommodate their size. These peaceful tortoises can be kept in small groups and do well when housed together. As with all turtles and tortoises, purchasing this species is a long-term commitment.
The Sulcata Tortoise (Centrochelys sulcata), also known as the African Spurred Tortoise, is the third-largest tortoise species in the world, and the largest species native to mainland Africa. Sulcata tortoises (Geochelone sulcata) are also known as the African spurred tortoise. They are giant terrestrial reptiles with a thick, domed shell, large overlapping scales on the front legs, spurs on the rear legs, a slightly hooked upper mandible, and serrated anterior and posterior marginal scutes.
The shell is light brown to yellow in color, with older individuals showing noticeable growth rings on each scute. The plastron is ivory-colored. The skin is light to medium yellow-brown. Sulcata tortoises are among the largest tortoises in the world. Although females are generally smaller than males, these tortoises can still grow 24-30″/61-76cm long and weigh between 70-110lbs/32-50kg on average, although particularly large males can reach over 40″/102cm and 200lbs/91kg. Sulcata tortoises are native to the southern Sahara area of Africa, from Senegal and Mauritania in the west to Sudan, Eritrea, and Ethiopia in the east. Here they have adapted to making the most of hot, arid desert or dry savannah-type habitats.
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Tortoises are well-known for being long-lived, and sulcatas are no exception! Although this species is fairly hardy, their lifespan, activity level, and care requirements make them a high-commitment pet.
Baby Sulcata tortoises are available from many sources, including local pet stores, reptile expos and breeders. All baby tortoises are captive bred, as importation has ceased. The pricing for a tortoise depends on size, age and even season; when more babies are available, the price can drop. Hatchling Sulcata tortoises will be about 1 ½ to two inches in shell length. The growth rate is more diverse than other tortoises; 10-inch tortoises could be three years old or 10 years old. Many adults will surpass 100 pounds. Big females can range from 90 to 120 pounds. All Sulcata tortoises, especially males, can reach 200 pounds, but that is when the tortoise has reached old age.
It hasn’t been determined how long a Sulcata tortoise can live in captivity as they haven’t been raised in captivity for long, but it is believed they can live for more than 80 years. Due to their size, Sulcata tortoises are best kept in an outdoor area. They can be kept there for most, or all, of the year. A desert-type set-up outdoors with a large grass area in the center and dirt around the perimeter is the recommended setting. The tortoise will “patrol” the border, so leave it unplanted. The tortoises are constant grazers and will eat any plants in the enclosure. An adult tortoise enclosure requires a sturdy wall at least two feet in height above the ground, as well as a foot below ground to prevent or discourage the tortoise from digging. Concrete masonry blocks work well, as does a well-built wood wall.
Young Sulcata tortoises should be raised indoors. Outdoor housing is acceptable when the temperature is in the correct range. It is recommended to grow the baby indoors for the first few years and then transfer it outside. The best enclosure for a baby tortoise is a shallow terrarium or plastic tub. Baby tortoises should have access to a humid hiding area. This helps their shells grow smoothly and keep them hydrated. To help tortoises with winter climates, an enclosure can be built in a garage. Sulcata tortoises will burrow more if there isn’t a proper hide box accessible. When the tortoises do dig, these spots should be filled with large stones or bricks to prevent future digging in that area.
"Ultimate Guide: Sulcata Tortoise Enclosure Setup – Everything You Need to Know!"
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Substrate Options for Sulcata Tortoises
For substrate, there are many different options. Cypress mulch can be great bedding. Coconut bedding or peat moss is also good. Outdoor enclosures don’t need added substrate, provided that the soils are natural and not tainted with fertilizer.
Plain garden soil, with no additives like fertilizers or perlite, is the most natural substrate for indoor tortoise pens. Soil can be used by itself or mixed with with other substrates like coconut coir or peat moss. Sand and soil in outdoor tortoise pens is natural and perfectly fine, but using sand indoors is controversial. Many keepers have used sand for years in indoor substrate mixes with no problems, while others claim it should never be used because it can be accidentally swallowed with food. Straight sand by itself is not recommended as an indoor substrate.
The traditional indoor substrate formula is to mix plain soil with a small amount of play sand. Popular chip type substrates include fir / orchid bark, cypress mulch, and coconut husk chips. Allergywise, coconut husk substrates are the least irritating indoor substrates, at least for me. They are sold as small animal substrates, reptile substrates, soil amendments, and planting mediums. I look for coconut products that cleaned and prewashed before packaging. The exact texture and composition of coconut husk products varies by the company, but below are generalized descriptions of the various types. Coir and chips are the most commonly available formats.
1. Coconut Coir
Coconut coir substrate is available in loose or compressed form. When wet, this finely ground coconut substrate resembles coffee grounds. The expandable coconut coir is the cheapest. It comes as a compressed brick that will multiply in volume when soaked in warm water. The quality of coconut husk products varies by the company. Some products are ground finer (coir) while others are coarser with longer fiber "hairs" (fiber). Some are almost odor free, while others smell more. Try different brands to see which one you like the best.
Coconut husk coir / fiber is sold under many different product names, including compressed coco coir, coco peat, organic growing medium, and wonder soil.
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2. Coconut Chips
Coconut "bark" chips are the coarser version of coconut husk substrates. They are another popular indoor tortoise enclosure substrate choice because they are natural, nice looking, and easy to find. When I mention coco mulch, I am talking about cut and shredded coconut shells. I am not talking about cacao bean, aka cocoa (chocolate), shell mulch. Cacao bean shell mulch is toxic to dogs if the chemical theobromine has not been removed from it.
Mixing more coconut coir than sand is a bang for your buck approach. Coir controls humidity and won’t mold like some sands. Store coconut-based substrates in a dry, well-ventilated spot to keep them feather-light and mold-free. Avoid damp or enclosed spaces.
ReptiChip provides an ideal environment for your sulcata tortoise by balancing cleanliness, comfort, and humidity. It's excellent for moisture retention, which is crucial for the well-being of many reptiles and amphibians. The substrate is also low in sodium and potassium, reducing the risk of mineral buildup that could harm your sulcata tortoise. ReptiChip is known for its low tannin content, which means it won't stain your enclosure or your sulcata tortoise. It's also excellent at odor absorption, keeping your living space fresh.
Our product line includes BabiChip, RediChip, TropicalBase, MicroChip, and ReptiEarth, so you can be sure to find the perfect sulcata tortoise bedding for your pet.
3. Sphagnum Moss
Sphagnum moss is a popular substrate for baby tortoises. If you do use moss, change it frequently because fungus growth and fungal spores in the moss can be a concern. Especially in cheaper, lower grade products. I always buy the premium grade (AAA, 5 star), long fiber sphagnum moss from New Zealand for its quality and cleanliness. I use it in all my hatchling indoor enclosures and keep it slightly damp and warm.
"Sphagnum moss" and "peat moss" are both from the Sphagnum plant, but they are not the same product. Sphagnum moss is the living moss growing on top of a sphagnum bog. It has long strands and is green or light tan in color. It looks like moss. Peat moss is the decaying and dead material at the bottom of the bog. Peat is medium or dark brown. It consists of small, fluffy particles and looks similar to coconut coir.
Peatlands are a rich source of biodiversity and help regulate the climate change. Once harvested, peat takes hundreds of years to regenerate. That's why peat is considered to be a non-renewable resource.
Wood chips and bark mulches are appealing looking natural substrates. Nowadays, many tortoise keepers have moved onto more humid indoor setups, even for dry area species. Higher ambient humidity is especially important for hatchlings and youngsters. Hot and dry enclosures expose tortoises to various degrees of chronic dehydration (losing large amounts of water) which can lead to kidney failure and, in worst cases, death. Warm, damp substrate areas and/or warm, humid hides help prevent fluid loss. Tropical species babies, like stars, can be kept in warm and humid vivariums (fully closed reptile enclosures, closed chambers).
Similarly, paper has fallen out of favor as an indoor tortoise substrate because it's slick and not diggable. It's best suited for short term, temporary use.
Here are a few good options for sulcata tortoise substrate:
- DIY arid mix: 60% organic topsoil + 40% play sand
- Coconut fiber
- Play sand
- Cypress mulch
All of these materials should be readily available to be purchased in bulk at your local garden center.
Potential Problems with Substrates
1. Allergy and Asthma Aggravation
Land tortoises are often recommended as some of the most suitable pets for asthmatics and allergics. Indeed, clean tortoises are odor and allergen free. But... the real problem is the substrate that tortoises live on when indoors. Most wood chips, mulches, and soil mixes give out odors that can irritate sensitive people and cause asthma and allergy exacerbations. Handling them with bare hands can also cause skin rashes in some individuals.
Cypress and fir / orchid bark are probably the worst offenders allergywise. For me, both of those are totally intolerable. Coconut coir and husk are less smelly and are better tolerated by allergics, but they can be quite dusty right out of the bag. When kept damp, some brands smell rather musty, too. The only indoor substrates that I can personally tolerate without severe allergy flare-up are coconut chips and sphagnum moss. In my open-top tortoise tubs, dry or damp coco chips are fine, especially when the enclosures are not kept in my main living areas. In high humidity vivariums, the wet substrate I tolerate best is high quality sphagnum moss. Some brands of prewashed coconut chips are fine as well. All other indoor substrates make me unwell. I've tried.
2. Impaction from Substrate Ingestion
Eating large quantities of any non-food substrate, on purpose or accidentally with food, can lead to a bowel obstruction. Severe intestinal blockages (impactions) can be fatal. Veterinarians have performed surgeries on severely impacted tortoises and other reptiles who have consumed excessive amounts of sand, coconut coir, wood chips, bark chips, and other substrates.
Thankfully, in well hydrated and not constipated tortoises, small amounts of substrate usually pass through without problems. A fiber rich diet will also help push any accidentally swallowed substrate along in the intestines. With all loose substrates, it's best to provide a substrate free eating area to avoid accidental ingestion of bedding during feeding. You can serve food on a shallow tray, plate, dish, or tile. Also, double plating, i.e., placing a small feeding dish on top of a larger plate, helps keep substrate away from food. Do not place food directly on any loose substrate.
3. Walking Problems from Unstable or Slippery Surfaces
Coarsely ground bark with large pieces can create an unstable, difficult to walk on surface in the enclosure for babies and young ones. Finely ground bark chips pack tighter making it easier for the tortoises to walk on it, but the smaller pieces are also easier to eat and swallow. Smooth paper has a rather slippery surface. For subadult and adult tortoises, paper is ok for a short-term temporary use like in a hospital tank, but paper not recommended for small, developing youngsters. Any smooth and slippery surface can cause babies' back legs to slip out when they are moving about in the enclosure.
This can lead to permanent gait problems, for example, splayed legs. A tortoise with splayed back legs cannot stand tall on straight legs. Rather, the legs are more or less spread out when the tortoise stands or walks. Wet paper towels can be used for brand new hatchlings for a short while, especially if babies have residual yolk sacs.
Maintaining Proper Humidity
Sulcata tortoises may be native to a dry habitat, but that doesn’t actually mean they should be kept super dry. In fact, they need quite a bit more humidity than most people give them. Juvenile sulcata tortoise humidity should always be >80%, with higher at night. Adults are more resilient to drying out, but juveniles are particularly vulnerable to dehydration. Babies hatch during the rainy season in their native range, and they spend a lot of their time in burrows, which have much higher humidity levels than the surrounding environment. Best-case scenario, chronic dehydration will deform a young sulcata’s shell and cause a condition called “pyramiding.” Worst-case scenario, chronic dehydration can be life-threatening!
To increase humidity levels in the enclosure, use a pressure sprayer to moisten the substrate as-needed. Periodically pouring water into the substrate with a watering can and manually stirring it in is a good idea. You may want to consider installing an automatic misting system such as the MistKing Starter to make it easier to maintain optimal humidity levels. The expense is worth the convenience! You can monitor humidity levels with a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed in the middle of the enclosure.
Creating a Humid Hide
Whether you are housing your tortoise indoors or outdoors, it must always have access to a humid hideout. This should be a cave or hide box placed on the cool end of the enclosure and lined with moistened substrate to create a humid microclimate.
New sulcata tortoises should pass quarantine before naturalistic substrate is added to their enclosure.
Substrate Longevity and Maintenance
Substrate longevity depends on your tortoise’s activity and moisture levels. Natural coconut fiber mats or bricks are season-proof and can stay fresh for months with regular spot cleaning. Keep a quick pick routine by spot cleaning waste daily and replacing substrate every 2-3 months. Most substrates for tortoises, especially coconut-based ones, have a natural earthy scent that’s guilt-free and low-odor.
Feces and urates should be removed daily, and contaminated substrate should be scooped out and replaced.
Here is a table summarizing the key benefits and considerations for each substrate type:
| Substrate Type | Benefits | Considerations |
|---|---|---|
| Coconut Coir | Excellent humidity control, affordable | Can be dusty, may have a musty smell |
| Coconut Chips | Natural look, easy to find | Coarser texture |
| Sphagnum Moss | Good for baby tortoises, retains moisture | Fungal growth, requires frequent changes |
| DIY Arid Mix (Soil/Sand) | Natural, allows digging | Can be controversial due to sand ingestion risks |
| Cypress Mulch | Readily available | Can cause allergies in some keepers |
Outdoor Sulcata tortoises can be tolerant of many temperature ranges. High temperatures are not a problem is they have a shaded area to escape from the sun. When nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees, provide a heated hide box that maintains at least 55 to 60 degrees, with the mid-‘70s being the ideal temperature, or you should bring the tortoise inside. For indoor tortoises, they can be maintained at average room temperatures of 68 to 75 degrees. Provide a basking area heated by an overhead light in the 100 plus degree range. They need a UVB light to help process the calcium in their diets. Keep the light on 12 to 14 hours a day and turn it off at night.
The Sulcata tortoise is always an eager eater and will rarely turn down food. For adults, the best staple diets are various dry grasses and leaves. They will graze on lawn grasses, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers. Most will also eat hay. Spring mixes work well, especially for babies. Include kale, collard greens, turnip greens and any darker lettuce type. Mazuri Tortoise Diet can be offered occasionally to cover anything nutritionally. Feed the tortoise from a flat rock or shallow dish. If you live in areas with prolonged dry months, such as Los Angeles, offer water to keep the tortoise hydrated. Use a shallow, low-sided dish for water. This makes cleaning easy, which must be done regularly, as most tortoises will soak and defecate in the water dish. The tortoise needs to be soaked with shallow, warm water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get fully hydrated and clean the shell. A soft toothbrush can be used to remove dirt from the shell.
Purchase an alert, active Sulcata tortoise with bright, clean eyes and no discharge from the nose, or buy one from a reputable source. These tortoises can suffer from most of the common reptile health problems but respiratory infections are the most widespread. Sulcata tortoises can get easily stressed out when overhandled. Always keep the tortoise right-side-up when holding. Adults are more resistant to handling. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them, especially when they are young.
Decorations play a vital role in sulcata tortoise care as environmental enrichment. Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing. And, of course, they make the enclosure look nicer! Without décor, your tortoise’s enclosure is just a big box of very boring dirt.
Hollow logs, cork flats, flagstone, dirt mounds, and edible, drought-resistant plants work well as décor in a sulcata tortoise enclosure. A homemade shell-scratching station is often a welcome addition! To determine what plants are safe to use in your enclosure, The Tortoise Table is an excellent resource.
Sulcata tortoises are herbivores, which means that they eat plants. Young and growing sulcata tortoises should be given as much as they can eat every day. Once they near adulthood, this should be reduced to a limited quantity (roughly the same size as their shell) daily to prevent obesity.
Here is a starter list of appropriate greens for sulcata tortoises:
- Alfalfa
- Aloe vera
- Arugula
- Bermuda grass
- Bok choy
- Car...
Remember, the ideal substrate choice will depend on your specific setup, environmental conditions, and the individual needs of your Sulcata tortoise. Always monitor your tortoise's health and adjust the substrate as needed to ensure a happy and healthy life.
