Pixie Frogs, also called African Giant bullfrogs (Pyxicephalus adspersus), are fascinating amphibians found in sub-Saharan Africa. Known for their large size and unique characteristics, these frogs make interesting pets for experienced amphibian enthusiasts. This guide provides essential information on how to properly care for African Pixie Frogs, ensuring they thrive in captivity.
An adult African Pixie Frog.
Natural Habitat and Characteristics
Pixie Frogs are native to the savannahs of sub-Saharan Africa. They tend to live in areas that flood and retain water. During the dry months, the frogs are forced to aestivate in order to save water. In the wild, they occupy habitats that alternate between desperately dry and inundated.
Here are some key characteristics of Pixie Frogs:
- Males can grow up to 10 inches, making them the second-largest frog species in the world.
- Females may range from 3-5 inches.
- With proper care, these frogs can live up to 25 years.
- Pixie frogs have bulbous round bodies, relatively small heads, stubby limbs, and bumpy skin.
- Both genders have teeth-like projections called odontoids in their mouth which help them capture prey.
When the conditions are unfavorable, they burrow into drying mud, build themselves a mucus-lined chamber, and estivate until the rains come again. When their chamber is moistened by the rains penetrating the soil, they emerge to resume their above-ground life with a voracious hunger.
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Housing
When it comes to housing, a 5-10 gallon tank is generally okay for a baby, a 20-gallon aquarium is sufficient for an adult Pixie frog. Since these frogs get pretty big, a lot of room is necessary. If you acquire a male, plan ahead for his large size and provide him with a 20-gallon aquarium or larger. Adult females are half the size of the males and can be kept comfortably in a 10-gallon aquarium.
Enclosure Size:
- A 20-gallon tank with a secure screen top is recommended for a single adult bullfrog.
- 36”L x 18”W x 18”H is a good starting point for housing one pixie frog, but larger is appreciated and used.
- If housing multiple, the tank must be upgraded to a 40-gallon space so the bullfrogs don't become stressed and threatened by each other.
Although some keepers find that using a non-conventional enclosure such as plastic storage boxes is less stressful for the animal due to the opaque nature of the sides, an opaque container will deprive the keeper of visual access to their pet and also hide conditions inside the habitat that may need attention. A multitude of sins can go unnoticed when viewing an enclosure from the top only.
Along with the substrate listed below, there are plenty of hiding spots using artificial vining plants, rounded cork bark, hides, caves, and leaf litter.
Substrate:
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The bottom of the tank should be lined with a substrate that is suitable for burrowing such as repti-soil by Zoomed. Providing at least 4” of naturalistic substrate (“bedding”) will help maintain correct humidity levels and accommodates your frog’s natural burrowing instincts. Layer with leaf litter for best results. The ideal substrate for your frog is one that can be kept very damp (not sopping) without falling apart, mashing down, or growing molds and fungi swiftly.
- Coco husk and plantation soil are good options for aiding humidity and easier cleanup.
- Sphagnum moss can also be added as a layer for moisture retention.
- Many keepers prefer a high humus content topsoil. When baked in the oven at 350 degrees F for ½ hour, a sterile soil can be achieved.
- Moistened strips of terry cloth towels can be used. Always have sterile replacement towels on hand and the towels must be washed and dried WITHOUT fabric softener.
Regardless of the choice of substrate selected, it needs to be moistened at all times with dechlorinated water. Tap water that has been dechlorinated chemically or “aged” is perfectly fine. To age water, allow chlorinated water to sit in an open container for 24-48 hours so chlorine can dissipate. Alternatively, you can use bottled spring water.
Water and Humidity:
As amphibians, pixie frogs can’t live without plenty of water. Ambient humidity should average around 60%. Humidity levels can range from 60-80%. It is crucial to keep their tank damp and regularly misted as bullfrogs need to be kept moist. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels at all times. Water used for spraying and soaking should either be bottled from a spring or treated from chlorine and chloramines with amphibian-safe water conditioner. In addition to a nice wide water bowl, the required humidity can be achieved by misting the frog’s enclosure thoroughly twice daily; once in the morning and once again in the afternoon (for this species once a day is not enough). If the hygrometer shows that levels are still not being reached, just mist a few more times throughout the day.
Temperature and Lighting:
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Like other amphibians, pixie frogs are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on external temperatures to manage their own body temperature and metabolism. Ambient temperature in a pixie frog enclosure should stay between 75-90°F during the day and may drop down to no lower than 68°F at night. The warm side should have an air temperature of 90°F and the cool side should have an air temperature of around 75°F.
Pixie frogs thrive in temperatures between 77-82°F with a relative humidity of around 80-90%. Monitor temperature with a temperature gauge and monitor humidity with a hydrometer. It's important to avoid direct sunlight and temperature fluctuations in their habitat. An under-tank heater or a weak heat lamp can be used to maintain a consistent temperature. Always use a thermostat when adding heat to your frog. Basking bulbs should be used on the enclosure, clamped on or on top of a screen covering. Bullfrogs run on a 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle, so turn off the lights at night.
Pixie frogs can survive without access to UVB, but we still recommend providing appropriate UVB lighting as part of the setup. For best results, use a bulb roughly half the length of the enclosure and housed in a reflective fixture. The frogs should be able to get no closer than 8” to the bulb. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window doesn’t count as “free UVB” - in fact, it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Lights should be on for 13 hours/day during summer and 11 hours/day during winter.
Feeding
Pixie frogs are carnivorous, which means that they need to eat a variety of animal-based foods in order to get the right nutrition. A balanced and nutritious diet is important to keep Pixie frogs healthy. They will ambush and consume anything that fits in their mouths. African bullfrogs have excellent eyesight.
Diet:
- A varied diet of insects such as crickets, roaches, and hornworms, as well as appropriately-sized mice, should be offered on a regular basis.
- Pixies will consume earthworms, crickets, super worms, waxworms, silkworms, hornworms, roaches, night crawlers, black soldier fly larva, and mice.
- An appropriately-sized mouse can be offered as a meal no more than once every 2-3 weeks.
Feeding Schedule:
- For young frogs less than 3” long, offer food daily.
- For older frogs, they can be fed 2-3x/week.
- It is recommended to feed rodents to adult Pixies only once every 2 or 3 weeks.
- Pixies smaller than 3 inches in length should be fed daily whatever they can consume in under 30 minutes, generally 3-4 crickets or the equivalent.
- Sub-adults and adults should be fed 2-3 times a week in the same manner.
It's important to avoid overfeeding, and uneaten food should be removed from the tank to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. When supplying prey items, it is best to leave large insects and worms on the rocks for them. Dead mice are best offered by using forceps to avoid being bitten. Again, it is not recommended to feed bullfrogs from your hand as they have a powerful and painful bite.
Supplementation:
You will need to keep calcium and multivitamin supplements on hand to help prevent your pet from developing a nutritional deficiency, helping it live healthier. As with feeding any reptile or amphibian a mostly insect-based diet, thought must be given to nutritional supplements. Regular dusting of prey items with a supplement such a ReptiCal is most important for young, fast-growing frogs - older animals that are closer to adult size need supplements less frequently.
Instead of dusting, many keepers gut load their prey items. “Gut loading” means placing the feeder insects on an enriched diet for at least 24 hours prior to being offered to your Pixie. This enhances the nutritional value of the insects substantially. A purchased supplement such as those offered by reptile hobby stores is easily available and affordable.
Building The Pixie Frog (African Bullfrog) Paludarium
Handling
Pixie frogs can be handled, but it's important to thoroughly wash your hands before and after interacting with them to avoid transferring any harmful bacteria. It's also important to avoid handling them too frequently as they can become stressed. Handling still shouldn’t be frequent, as it’s still stressful.
For best results, wear a pair of nitrile gloves, grasp the frog’s body securely but gently, and keep handling time fairly short. Amphibians generally don’t appreciate petting and handling in the same way that dogs and cats do, but pixie frogs seem to tolerate handling better than most frogs.
Tank Cleaning
Bullfrogs are messy creatures, necessitating frequent tank cleaning. Daily removal of poop on the substrate is highly recommended. The dry side of a duo habitat will need to be re-surfaced monthly. This means removing the lighter material that sits on top of the heavier base (such as aquarium gravel or large pea gravel). The fibrous substrate will need to be disposed of monthly if your Pixie is a mature adult. The reason for this is that their weight and size mashes the fecal matter thoroughly down into the substrate. Eventually it becomes impossible to clean satisfactorily.
For juveniles and young adult females, you may be able to wait a little longer, if you diligently spot clean daily. When the time comes to perform this maintenance and the substrate is out, before replacing it with fresh, be sure to remove the gravel base and sanitize. A one-inch gravel base provides many useful functions, from preventing the frog from burrowing right down onto the glass adjacent to the heating pad, to providing an air space against compaction of the bedding.
Remember, unlike fish and reptiles, an amphibian’s skin is extremely porous and sensitive. They do not drink water, but rather absorb water and sodium directly through the skin. Therefore, you do not want your friend to have to hydrate himself/herself in an acid bath, or the equivalent of lye either.
Any objects removed from the habitat and sterilized with bleach or vinegar must, must, must be thoroughly rinsed in aged water and then allowed to dry for 2 hours before it re-enters the habitat.
Health Considerations
African Bullfrogs can easily become obese. Be sure to clean the enclosure frequently of waste, as bullfrogs can get ammonia poisoning.
Here are some common health issues to watch out for:
- Skin infections
- Respiratory Issues
- Impaction
By replicating its natural environment, providing a nutritious diet, and managing humidity and temperature, you can enjoy this fascinating pet for many years.
