African fashion is more than just clothing; it is an expression of culture, tradition, and heritage. Over the years, African fashion has gained global recognition, and its influence can be seen in the fashion industry worldwide. From traditional prints and fabrics to contemporary designs, African fashion has become a trend embraced all over the world.
African prints play a central role in Afrocentric fashion, but there’s more to these compelling designs than meets the eye. If you follow black women’s fashion trends, you’re familiar with African prints - those bold, beautiful designs that give women’s clothing a decidedly Afrocentric vibe. Once you know their stories, you’ll love them that much more. Executed in bright, eye-catching colors or high-contrast black and white, they’re sometimes referred to as “ethnic prints” or “tribal prints.”
Just as there are multiple African cultures, there are multiple types of African prints. African clothing plays a significant role in showcasing the diverse culture of the continent. With over 54 countries, African clothing varies regionally, with each tribe and country having its unique style.
Here are some of the most iconic African outfit designs, along with their history and significance.
Kente
Kente cloth patterns are characterized by a bright mix of colors and geometric shapes, interwoven in contrasting bands or blocks. The pattern is based on traditional kente cloth, it is a handwoven silk and cotton fabric that originated in 17th-century South Ghana.
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According to Ashanti legend, kente cloth was created by two hunters who came across a giant spider spinning a magnificent web. They were so awestruck by its beauty, they decided to recreate their own version - and thus kente cloth was born. They presented their creation to the Ashanti king, and from then on, kente cloth became the fabric of royalty.
Making authentic kente cloth is labor intensive. First, 4″ strips of fabric are woven on a slim wooden loom, in colorful stripes, shapes, and textures. Then, multiple strips are sewn together in intricate patterns to create the elaborate woven cloth.
Today, kente cloth prints are a popular component of women’s Afrocentric fashion. You often see kente cloth patterns used as trim on dresses, tunics and pants - say, to accent hems, sleeves and necklines - and to make stunning headwraps and scarves.
Ankara Prints (aka Wax Prints or Batik)
If you love particularly bright, vivid colors and spectacular designs, you’re probably drawn to Ankara print clothing. Ankara is a vibrant material with rich, colorful patterns. These designs are a form of expression pronouncing everything from marital status to popular culture, political and religious beliefs.
This technique of wax-resist dying actually didn’t originate in Africa. West African mercenaries working in Indonesia in the mid-19th century brought the technique back with them, then took it to another level with bright African colors and traditional motifs.
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In authentic wax printing, the wax is melted and meticulously applied to the cloth by hand, which is then dyed in a vivid hue. This wax-and-soak process is repeated multiple times with various colors, creating intricate multi-colored patterns. Different cultures around the world developed their own variations of wax printing.
Wax print patterns include florals, animal motifs, geometrics - you name it. The most popular African clothing found across the continent is made with the Ankara fabric. Ankara is a wax-printed fabric that comes in various colors, patterns, and designs. In Afrocentric fashion circles, Ankara prints are frequently used to create caftans, free-flowing dresses, and more.
Mudcloth
Yes, in the beginning, mudcloth was made using real mud - riverbed mud that was fermented in clay jars for up to a year, to be exact.
Today, we associate mudcloth prints with bold geometric designs executed in black, and set on a white or solid-colored background. But the original mud cloth was white with brown patterns, the color left behind by the mud’s pigment.
Mudcloth was originated by Mali’s Bamana culture, back in the 12th century. The Bamana people developed the technique for making these fabrics. Traditionally, men would weave strips of fabric on narrow looms, and once the strips were stitched together into lengths of cloth, women would dye and paint the fabric.
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They would paint intriguing combinations of lines, circles, and other shapes, repeating their pattern over the entire cloth. Each pattern would tell a story, but only to those who understood the meaning of the symbols.
Mud cloth was originally a show of status, and many African American women still wear mud cloth prints with pride. You’ll find these sophisticated patterns (usually in black and white) on Afrocentric dresses, tops, pantsuits, and more.
Dashiki (aka Angelina Prints)
You’re undoubtedly familiar with the dashiki-a long, loose shirt featuring a colorful design along its V-neck, sleeves, and hem. A Dashiki is a loose fitting pull-over shirt, long or short sleeved with an ornate embroidered V-shaped collar that is uni-sex and comes in many lengths, colours and forms.
The dashiki gained popularity during the Civil Rights movement, and it’s been associated with black pride and unity ever since.
These days, dashiki prints are found on much more than men’s shirts. You can find variations of the classic dashiki design on modern caftans, dresses, tunics, and women’s pantsuits.
While some dashiki prints are very colorful, others are more muted. So, if you’re new to the world of wearing African prints, dashiki prints might be a great place to get your feet wet.
11 Traditional African Clothing That Identifies African Tribes.
Animal Prints
Animal print clothing is not an African print, as such. However, you do see a lot of it in Afrocentric fashion, and elsewhere, too. It’s never out of fashion.
As you’d expect, today’s animal print clothing is the 21st century equivalent of our ancestors’ wearing of animal pelts. In South Africa’s Zulu culture, for example, the aristocracy prized leopard skins.
Cheetahs, zebras, giraffes…many of the world’s most popular animal prints originate with magnificent animals native to Africa. Often, it was believed that wearing the skin of a certain animal would transfer that animal’s power to the wearer.
Today, however, animal prints are more about creating a sense of fun. They’re exotic. They’re sexy. They take a little confidence to wear, but they’ll give you some confidence, too. You can find animal print clothing in just about every department, from dresses and tops to shoes and bags.
Other Traditional African Clothing
Traditional African clothing embodies the rich cultural heritage of Africa. The materials used to create traditional African clothing vary from region to region, depending on the climate, culture, and available resources of each area.
Some common materials used in African clothing include cotton, silk, wool, and leather. Additionally, beads, shells, and animal prints are commonly added to African clothing to lend it a distinct and vibrant appearance. Here are some examples of traditional African clothing:
- Iro and Buba: Native to Yoruba women of Nigeria, featuring a large wrapper (Iro), loose blouse (Buba), head tie (Gele), and optional scarf (Iborun).
- Toghu or Atoghu: A traditional outfit popular among the Bamileke people of North-Western Cameroon, embroidered with colorful patterns on black velvety fabric.
- Xhosa Traditional Attire: Known as Isikhakha or UmBhaco, this South African ensemble includes a long skirt, decorative apron, white blouse, and intricate beadwork.
- Kanzu: White or cream African traditional clothing worn by men in the African Great Lakes region, popular in Uganda for weddings and festivals.
- Habesha Kemis: A robe worn by Habesha women of Ethiopia and Eritrea for formal events, typically in grey, beige, or white shades made from cotton fabric.
- Jillaba or Djellaba: A long, loose-fitting unisex robe worn in the Maghreb region of North Africa, traditionally made of wool but now also in lightweight cotton.
- Shuka: Traditional clothing of the Maasai people of Tanzania and Kenya, often red with black stripes, also known as the ‘African Blanket’.
- Isidwaba: A traditional skirt worn by betrothed or married women in Southern Africa, made from genuine leather and adorned with colorful fabric.
- Isiagu: A status symbol among Igbo men of South-East Nigeria, featuring a silk fabric with the head of a lion emblazoned in a definite pattern.
The Importance of African Fashion
African fashion has gained much recognition in recent years due to its rich cultural heritage, vibrant colors, and unique designs. The industry has grown exponentially, and African designers are now showcasing their creativity in international runway shows. Here are a few reasons why African fashion is so important to the world:
- Cultural expression: African clothing offers a glimpse into the diverse cultures of the continent. Each design is unique and showcases the rich cultural heritage of Africa. It provides a platform for Africans to celebrate their identities and express their creativity.
- Empowerment: African fashion has become a means of empowerment for many people. It has created job opportunities for skilled artisans and designers, especially women, who have been marginalized in the past. This has contributed to the growth of the economy and the reduction of poverty levels across the continent.
- Sustainability: African fashion is produced using sustainable practices. Many designers use traditional methods such as hand-weaving and dyeing to create their designs. This promotes eco-friendly production methods and supports local communities.
- Diversity: African clothing is incredibly diverse, with various styles, fabrics, and techniques. There is something for everyone, and this has led to the globalization of African fashion. It has become a global trend, and many non-African designers are incorporating African-inspired designs into their collections.
- Influence: African fashion has influenced fashion trends across the world. Many designers from Western countries have been inspired by African designs and have incorporated them into their collections.
| Fabric/Garment | Origin | Description | Significance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kente | Ghana | Handwoven silk and cotton fabric with bright colors and geometric shapes | Fabric of royalty, used for celebrations and special occasions |
| Ankara | West Africa (adapted from Indonesian batik) | Wax-printed cotton fabric with vibrant colors and patterns | Expression of culture, marital status, and beliefs |
| Mudcloth (Bògòlanfini) | Mali | Handmade cotton fabric dyed with fermented mud, featuring geometric designs | Tells stories, represents nature, and symbolizes status |
| Dashiki | West Africa | Loose-fitting shirt with an embroidered V-shaped collar | Symbol of black pride and unity |
| Shuka | Maasai people of Tanzania and Kenya | Red cloth with black stripes, also known as the 'African Blanket' | Traditional garment and symbol of Maasai culture |
In short, African prints are beautiful, flattering, and fun to wear. Best of all, like all Afrocentric fashion, they’re a stylish way for black women to pay tribute to their heritage while looking fabulous.
