We’re halfway into Black History Month and like every other month, we’re celebrating the beauty of our Blackness. One beauty trend that we saw take off at the start of February was women rocking nails for the culture. For Black women, nail art is more than just a fashion statement.
By embracing bold and complex nail designs, African American women assert their autonomy and challenge traditional beauty standards that often exclude them. Manicures hold cultural significance, reflecting creativity, resilience, and community bonds.
The Historical Roots of Nail Art
Although the origins of the manicure cannot accurately be traced to any culture, archeologists have discovered nail art on Egyptian mummies, Indian women, and men in ancient Babylon, dating around 5,000 BCE. Researchers credit the Chinese for creating the first “nail polish” around 3,000 BCE, where women soaked their nails in a mix of egg white, gelatine, beeswax, and dyes from flower petals.
Style, Art, and Activism
Iconic entertainer and civil rights activist Josephine Baker, known for her flamboyant style in the 1920s and 1930s, set trends with her look that included polished nails. Legendary singer, dancer, and actress Lena Horne was a style icon whose sophisticated appearance, which included manicured nails, influenced how Black women’s beauty was perceived. Pioneering actress and singer Diahann Carroll, known for her elegance and style, often wore polished nails.
The Emergence of Acrylic Nails
African American women also adopted acrylic nails as they emerged in the 1950s. Donyale Luna, who was the first Black woman on the cover of Vogue in 1966, wore acrylic nails. Most notably, track and field athlete Florence “Flo-Jo” Griffith Joyner set world records for the 100m and 200m race at the 1988 Olympics. She blended fashion with sports in a way never seen before.
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Close-up as American athlete Florence Griffith Joyner (1959 - 1998) displays her medals from the Summer Olympic Games in Seoul, South Korea, September 25, 1988. (Allen J.
Nail Art as an Elevated Art Form of Expression and Identity
Prominent Black women in popular culture have elevated nail art as a form of self-expression. Entertainers such as Megan Thee Stallion, Saweetie, and Latto have been seen with anime-themed nails, “Kawaii” sets, and themed claws, respectively. During the 2024 Paris Olympics, African American women athletes fashioned acrylic nails while competing for medals, making nail art part of their identity.
Sha'carri Richardson's decorated nails are seen after the Women's 4x100m Relay final during the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
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Labor and Leisure
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, most Black women were relegated to jobs where they worked with their hands and were considered less feminine and on the periphery of womanhood. Nail care actualized their femininity and virtue.
From intricate designs to the popularization of specific shapes and lengths, African American women have redefined what is considered fashionable in nail care. Hampton's artistry has graced the hands of so many notable clients like Teyana Taylor, Missy Elliot, and Brittany S. Celeste's passion for wellness extends far beyond aesthetics.
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Expanding Men's Fashion
Their influence goes beyond nail art for just women. Celebrities such as A$AP Rocky and Jaden Smith have used nail polish or stickers to expand and circumvent what is typically perceived as men’s fashion, especially within Black culture. Track and field sprinter Noah Lyles appeared at the 2024 Olympics opening ceremony with the word “ICON” painted across his nails.
Even ESSENCE News & Politics Director Yesha Callahan got her set. Nail studios are spiritually transformative sites for positive identity formation. Manicurists provide an escape, a refuge, where the strife and struggles of the world seem to evaporate. Art created there-from minimal to elaborate designs-captures the energy, elegance, playfulness, and personality of the wearer.
African prints tell stories, and even if you can’t trace your lineage back to a specific region, you know that it’s home. A colorful nail design can pay homage to Miriam Makeba, Nelson Mandela, Kwame Nkrumah and other great African leaders.
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