The Enduring Influence of African Models in Fashion History

Nov 25, 2025 0

The Black community has had a consistent and enduring influence on the fashion industry. While some trends have been attributed to Black designers, often the origins are left largely uncredited. This article explores the rich history of African models and their significant impact on the fashion world.

Early Influences

The influence of Black culture on fashion can be traced as far back as slavery. According to Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity and senior director of design in the VCU School of the Arts, enslaved Africans brought their cultural practices with them. “If I'm from Africa, I'm going to weave and make quilts from my culture,” Alford said.

More commonly understood is the widespread effect of the Harlem Renaissance on fashion in the 1920s. Vogue magazine was among the crucial tastemakers taking their cues from Black fashion trends at the time. Flapper dresses and zoot suits are two of the most notable and influential clothes to originate in the Black community during the 1920s.

Alford said many Black designers from the 1920s into the 1960s are now recognized today for the work they did and its impact - though that recognition often eluded them at the time. However, Black designers, such as Ann Lowe, who designed Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress, began to get a little more recognition starting in the 1960s.

The Civil Rights Era and Black Empowerment

The 1960s also brought the social movement of the Civil Rights Era, including the emergence of the Black Panthers. Alford said the Black Panthers influenced fashion with all-black and all-leather outfits, the dashiki and afros. “As Black is beautiful becomes extremely popular, it transcends into fashion and into how people want to dress and how people want to look,” Alford said.

One of the largest influences in fashion for persons of color was Ebony Magazine and The Ebony Fashion Fair Show, Alford said. While the magazine was geared toward a Black audience, it featured many non-Black designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci. The magazine, also, made styles such as hoop earrings a fashion statement.

The Battle of Versailles (1973)

Alford said one memorable moment that put Black models on the main stage was an event called the Battle of Versailles, which took place in 1973. The event included extravagant sets and singing but no catwalk. At the time, models would stand and pose in one spot during fashion shows. When the American designers arrived, they realized they had made the measurements for the sets in inches, not centimeters.

Not knowing what to do, they decided to let the girls walk to show off the beauty of the clothes in movement. “She said the crowd went crazy. When they wore Stephen Burrows knit outfits, the fabric moved along the body, really showcasing the clothes,” Alford said. The women were eventually recognized and honored for their contributions by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

“And this is why for years, you have Bethann Hardison and Naomi Campbell complaining about women of color not being on the runway,” Alford said.

Dapper Dan and Logomania

One Black designer who changed the face of luxury fashion forever was Dapper Dan. Alford said Dapper Dan is cited with utilizing monogram print excessively, also known as logomania. In the 1980s and ‘90s, Dapper Dan would place luxury logos or other brand symbols on fabric.

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Dapper Dan did not have the permission of the brands he used in the designs, and he was eventually raided in the late 1990s for using Louis Vuitton and Gucci logos without their permission. In 2017, Gucci made a jacket that looked similar to one Dapper Dan did in the ‘90’s. Gucci was called out on social media for stealing Dapper Dan’s idea, Alford said.

Dapper Dan Talks About Going From the Underground to Gucci | Vogue

Hip Hop's Influence

Just as the punk movement had been widely influential starting in the mid-1970s, such as by popularizing Dr. Martens boots, she said, hip hop also had a far-reaching impact on fashion. Hip hop’s emphasis on dancing led to athletic wear and baggy clothing growing extremely popular. She said coming out of the 1980s no one wanted to wear tight pants.

“It became an extremely popular movement which really just started because Black kids were like, ‘They’re too tight. These larger sizes were easy to dance and pop and lock in and eventually led to the popularity of sagging pants. “Many give credit to the godfather of Urban Street wear, Karl Kani, who upped the waist sizes when creating his line,” Alford said. “Black men don’t like tight pants. If you bought a 34, it fit like a 36.

Originally Alford said the hip hop trend was to wear large T-shirts, which hid the sagging. It became important to wear stylish underwear. In the ‘90s, Calvin Klein was on the verge of bankruptcy, Alford said. He would be the first to showcase what is now the boxer brief with his name on the waist band.

Klein placed rapper Marky Mark - Mark Wahlberg - with supermodel Kate Moss in an ad with him sagging his pants with the brands name on the waist band. By the 2000’s, the trend could be seen on the luxury runways.

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“Then you start seeing what happens when hip hop fashion starts to influence mainstream,” Alford said. She attributes one of the reasons that it is no longer fringe to the influence of Virgil Abloh, Matthew Williams and Jerry Lorenzo.

“Virgil Abloh just passed, but he was the creative director for Louis Vuitton Men. He brought that entire hip hop look to Louis Vuitton,” she said. “Matthew Williams is now the creative director for Givenchy. Alford said hip hop fashion designers who moved into luxury menswear have changed the face of what menswear looks like.

Global Perspectives

Alford traveled the world widely from about 2007 to 2015. During that time, there was a resurgence of hip hop fashion in Japan, with men wearing afros and picks in their hair, she said. In 2007, Nissan ran an ad with Japanese people in a barber shop, some with dreads and one person getting their hair braided.

“Black Americans went off. That's not the Black experience, right? It's Black appropriation. It's not the experience,” Alford said. She received funding to go to Japan to explore trends there related to Black fashion and culture, including investigating where people were shopping, how they were getting their hair braided, and how they were even wearing makeup to darken their face.

In Takashima Dori, one of the fashion centers of Tokyo, she found stores for every substyle from Elegant Lolita Fashion to hip hop. In one of the back areas of Takashima Dori was a store called “Black Annie.” The store sold items that had to do with Black culture.

“Their attitude was like, ‘This is what I love. I love hip hop culture. She said there’s a fine line between appropriation and appreciation and wanting to wear black style. For example, wearing sagging pants.

“I’ve noticed that even golfers sag their pants while playing,” Alford said. “I had to think about it and I said, ‘You know, at least they recognize it's Black style,’” Alford said.

“There was a recognition in some countries of Black style, and that people wanted to wear the ‘Black style’ to pay homage to a cultural way of dressing that they wanted to wear and emulate (appreciation),” Alford said.

African American Modeling Agencies

This paper examines the role of African American modelling agencies during the early post-World War II era, circa 1945-1954, in advancing new tenets of raced and gendered self-presentation. In this period, the work of the model and the modelling agency helped reanimate representative understandings of African American womanhood both at home and abroad.

African American modelling agencies worked to secure an image of womanhood that announced heterosexual appeal, feminized deportment and dress, and urban, middle-class status through the access of consumer goods. My paper focuses on Barbara Watson Models, the first African American modelling agency, opened in New York City in 1946.

Barbara Watson, the agency's owner, epitomized the professional status of African American women in the modelling industry. A Harlemite by birth, Watson's status as an educated, elegant, upper middle-class woman assisted in reinforcing the professional face of Brandford Models.

My paper analyzes Watson's role in advancing ideas and images of African American women as glamorous, poised and professional.

Pioneering African Models

From the groundbreaking strides made by pioneers like Iman to the captivating presence of Sudanese-born Alek Wek, African models have consistently played a major role in the promotion of global fashion.

Here are some of the African models who have left an indelible mark on the fashion industry:

Adut Akech: A South Sudanese-Australian model who has been making waves in the fashion industry since her debut in 2016. Akech has graced the covers of prestigious magazines such as Vogue and Elle, showcasing her versatility and impact on the global fashion scene.
Alek Wek: A South Sudanese-British model, debuted on the fashion scene in 1995 at the age of 18. Her accolades include being named “Model of the Year” by MTV in 1997 and appearing in music videos and fashion shows for major designers.
Djimon Hounsou: A Beninese-American actor and model. Before making a significant mark in Hollywood, Hounsou embarked on a career as a fashion model.
Fatima Siad: A Somali-Ethiopian model, best known for her participation in America’s Next Top Model. Her remarkable career is highlighted by appearances in editorials for Vogue, Elle, and Cosmopolitan.
Flaviana Matata: A Tanzanian model who won the Miss Universe Tanzania pageant in 2007. Her bold look caught the attention of international modeling scouts, leading to a career in fashion.
Iman Mohamed Abdulmajid: Known mononymously as Iman, is a Somali fashion model, actress, and entrepreneur who worked with designers like Gianni Versace, Calvin Klein, and Yves Saint Laurent.
Liya Kebede: Ethiopian-born Liya Kebede began her modeling career in 2000 and quickly rose to prominence, becoming the first black model to represent Estée Lauder as a global brand ambassador.
Maria Borges: An Angolan model who has made significant strides in the fashion industry since her debut in 2010. Her accolades include being named Forbes Africa Magazine’s top model of 2013 and receiving the African Entertainment Award for Best Female Model in 2019.
Waris Dirie: A Somali model, author, actress, and human rights activist. Her autobiography, “Desert Flower,” recounts her harrowing experience and her journey from the Somali desert to international modeling success.

Contemporary African Models

Here are some contemporary African models who are making significant contributions to the fashion industry:

Halima Aden: Born in a Kenyan refugee camp, has shattered stereotypes and made history as the first hijab-wearing model to grace international runways.
Adwoa Aboah: Ghanaian-British model has become a prominent figure in the fashion world, known for her distinctive look and commitment to activism.
Mayowa Nicholas: Nigerian model has been making headlines since she won the Elite Model Look Nigeria competition.
Anok Yai: Sudanese-born model made history as the first black model to open a Prada show since Naomi Campbell in 1997.
Adesuwa Aighewi: Nigerian-Chinese model has been making waves in the fashion industry with her unique look and versatile talent.

Other Key Figures

Several other African and African American figures have made significant contributions to the fashion industry:

Willi Smith: Recognized for his groundbreaking innovations in sportswear. WilliWear became the most successful fashion line by an African American designer.
Zelda Wynn Valdes: A costume and fashion designer who opened her own business, Zelda Wynn on Broadway in New York City. She began designing for socialites and celebrities alike.
Arthur McGee: In the mid-1950s he was the first African American to operate the design room of a major manufacturer.
Ophelia DeVore: One of America’s first African American models of note, a prominent businesswoman, newspaper publisher, and a pioneer in the modern beauty business. In 1946, she and a group of friends established Grace Del Marco Modeling Agency, a company created to train models of color.
Agbani Darego: She won the Most Beautiful Girl in Nigeria (MBGN) pageant in 2001 and later Agbani Darego became the first African woman to win the Miss World pageant.
Ajuma Nasenyana: Kenyan model, has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry and society despite a difficult upbringing. She has been an outspoken critic of the prevailing trend in her homeland of Kenya to reject the natural beauty standards of Black African communities in favor of those of other cultures.
Khoudia Diop: Known as the "Melanin Goddess," has become an emblematic figure in the African fashion arena.
Oluchi Onweagba: In 1998, became the first African model to win the highly coveted Face of Africa modeling competition, which propelled her career and opened doors for other African models in the global fashion arena.

Table of Influential African Models

Model	Nationality	Achievements
Adut Akech	South Sudanese-Australian	Graced covers of Vogue and Elle
Alek Wek	South Sudanese-British	MTV's "Model of the Year" in 1997
Iman Mohamed Abdulmajid	Somali	Worked with top designers like Versace and Klein
Liya Kebede	Ethiopian	First black model to represent Estée Lauder
Maria Borges	Angolan	Forbes Africa Magazine’s top model of 2013
Halima Aden	Somali-American	First hijab-wearing model on international runways
Adwoa Aboah	Ghanaian-British	Founder of Gurls Talk, activist
Mayowa Nicholas	Nigerian	First Nigerian model to walk for Dolce & Gabbana
Anok Yai	Sudanese	First black model to open a Prada show since 1997
Adesuwa Aighewi	Nigerian-Chinese	Walked for Chanel, Dior, and Alexander Wang