African house snakes (Boaedon fuliginosus) are also known as the brown house snake. They are small- to medium-sized, terrestrial, nocturnal snakes found throughout western and sub-Saharan Africa. Because of their general hardiness, small size, and docility, African house snakes are considered beginner-level pet reptiles. However, they still have specific care needs that must be met.
Boaedon fuliginosus
Appearance and Size
African house snakes have slender bodies with an oval head, smooth scales, and large, round eyes with vertical pupils. Coloring is typically light brown to black with a pale stripe extending from the snout to the ear. African house snakes are typically 2-4’ long, with females being significantly larger than males.
Natural Habitat
They can be found in a wide variety of habitats, including scrub, woodland, savanna, and grassland.
I Built a Bioactive Vivarium for my African House Snake TWICE because of FAILURE
Enclosure
Because African house snakes are slender, many people think of them as smaller than they really are, keeping them in enclosures that are too small for them to stretch out fully and exercise. The absolute minimum terrarium size for an African house snake is 36”L x 18”W x 16”H. Of course, larger is always better! African house snakes are prone to escape, particularly as juveniles. They are slender enough to even escape through the gap between sliding doors!
Read also: Experience Fad's Fine African Cuisine
Lighting
They can survive without it, but it’s still best practice to provide UVB lighting for optimal health and wellbeing. The UVB bulb should be half the length of the enclosure, housed in a reflective fixture, and placed close to the heat lamp on top of the enclosure, no closer than 6” above the basking area. For best results, use a bulb half the length of the enclosure and house it in a reflective fixture like the Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun Hood. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so you can’t give your snake UVB by placing its terrarium in front of an open window. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window doesn’t count as “free UVB” - in fact it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Lights should be on for 13 hours/day during summer and 11 hours/day during winter.
Heating
Like other reptiles, African house snakes are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on external temperatures to manage their own body temperature and metabolism. African snakes should have a basking temperature of 90°F. On the other side of the enclosure, the temperature should be between 70-75°F. Provide heat for your snake by imitating the sun with a halogen heat lamp placed on one side of the enclosure, positioned over a sturdy basking branch or warm hide. Provide heat for your snake with at least one halogen flood heat bulbs, placed over the basking area (ex: a piece of flagstone or stone paver) to evenly heat the snake’s entire body. The warm hide should be placed directly below the basking surface.
Humidity
African house snakes need an average humidity of 40-60%, as measured by a digital probe hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. Misting your snake’s enclosure with a sprayer each evening will help create the right humidity levels. African house snakes need an average humidity of 40-60%. There should also be a humid hide for your snake, lined with moistened sphagnum moss. There should also be a humid hide for your snake, lined with moistened sphagnum moss. Increase humidity by misting your snake’s enclosure 1x/day with a spray bottle. Mist each evening after the lights turn off, then again in the morning if needed.
Substrate
African house snakes require a thick layer of moisture-retentive substrate to cushion their bodies and help maintain healthy humidity levels. Ideally, this substrate should resemble what the snakes naturally live on in the wild: soil. It should have small particles and hold moisture well. Substrate should be at least 2” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months. Providing a thick layer of naturalistic substrate (“bedding”) will help cushion your snake’s body, maintain correct humidity levels, and also helps make your enclosure more attractive! Substrate should be at least 2” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months.
Enrichment
It’s terribly boring for a snake to be stuck in an enclosure with nothing in it except substrate, hides, and a water bowl. An empty terrarium makes for a bored snake, reducing its quality of life. At bare minimum, an African house snake terrarium must contain substrate, a water bowl, and a place for the snake to hide. Aside from hiding places, you will also need at least one low branch for your snake to climb on, as well as some live or artificial foliage to provide cover. Decorating their enclosures with foliage, caves, and logs will help them feel safe and offer enrichment.
Read also: The Story Behind Cachapas
Diet
Like other snakes, African house snakes are carnivores, which means that they need to eat whole animal prey in order to get the nutrition that they need. Like other reptiles, African house snakes are carnivorous, which means that they need to eat whole animal prey in order to get the right nutrition. Prey items should be around 10% of your snake’s weight or no more than 1.5x its width. Prey items should be around 10% of the snake’s weight or no more than 1.5x its width at its widest point. Although live prey can be used, it’s safest and most humane to use frozen instead. Although live prey can be offered, it’s best to use frozen whenever possible. Remember, the key to great nutrition is variety!
House snakes readily feed on rodents weekly, starting on pinkies as babies and adult mice into adulthood.
Supplements
African house snakes can survive without vitamin or mineral supplements, but occasionally using them can help prevent nutritional deficiencies and optimize your snake’s health. African house snakes can survive without dietary supplements, but using them every once in a while can help prevent your snake from developing a nutritional deficiency, helping it to live healthier.
Water
Your snake should have access to clean, fresh water at all times. Of course, don’t forget a water bowl for your snake to drink from and soak in! Provide a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak its entire body if desired. This bowl should be large enough for the snake to soak its entire body when desired.
Handling
Few reptiles actually “like” to be held, but African house snakes generally tolerate handling well. Reptiles generally don’t appreciate petting and handling in the same way that dogs and cats do. That being said, African house snakes generally tolerate human interaction pretty well! That being said, they can be nippy and squirmy as babies, so be cautious. When picking up your African house snake, be gentle and try to pick it up from the side or below rather than from above. Be gentle, and pick up the snake from below rather than from above. Avoid forcibly restraining them. Avoid forcible restraint.
Read also: Techniques of African Jewellery
Health Considerations
Captive born house snakes are a pleasure and easy to keep. However, you absolutely do need to deworm your wild caught house snakes.
Wild Caught vs Captive Bred
Wild caught house snakes may be prone to biting (often a dewormed housie does stop biting after treatment), look or seem uncomfortable for no reason (pacing, scared), not eat or eat voraciously but still fail to gain weight long term. They sometimes vomit food for 'seemingly no reason'. They sometimes rally for a few months and then die 'inexplicably'. If kept long term but not dewormed they often have reproductive issues.
Deworming
These can all be avoided by deworming. Good news is deworming is not very expensive, or difficult. The best thing to do with any snake you aren't certain of its origin is to have it tested and dewormed. Its typically done with panacur, flagyl, or both.
House Snake Size Chart
Here is a size chart for different types of House Snakes:
| Species | Female Size | Male Size | Diet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cape House Snake | Around 32 inches | 18-24 inches | Full grown retired breeder mouse or rat fuzzy |
| Togo Stripe House Snake | Close to Capes in size | Smaller than females | Adult mice |
| Green, Black, Mentalis House Snake | Smaller than Togo Stripe | Smaller than females | Hoppers |
| Boaedon Lineatus | Smallest | Smaller than females | Weaned mice |
