African Bullfrog Care Guide

The Pyxicephalus adspersus, known commonly as the Giant African Bullfrog or simply Pixie Frog (sometimes also spelled Pyxie Frog), is a fascinating amphibian to keep as a pet. These frogs are native to the savannahs of sub-Saharan Africa.

Female African Bullfrog

Natural History

The African bullfrog lives in a variety of arid and semiarid habitats in central and southern Africa. They prefer savanna and shrublands for habitat, usually close to a body of water.

Description

African bullfrogs are often called “pixie” frogs, derived from their genus, not their size. African bullfrogs are olive green in color. The males have a yellow or orange throat, while female throats are cream-colored. Males may reach 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) in length. Females are usually a lot smaller than males with rounder body shape.

Like most species of frogs, the males and females show differences in size. Unlike most frogs, however, the males in this species tend to grow much larger than the females instead of the other way around. Males can reach 4.5-10 inches/11.5-25 cm SVL compared to females: 3.5-5.5 inches/9.0-14 cm. Both sexes are an olive green color with white undersides and orange where the limbs meet the body. Males tend have yellow around the orange coloring often extending down their sides and up the sides of their throat.

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The size and coloration differences are generally reliable once the frogs reach approximately 4 inches. Males also have a proportionally larger head and have a low rumbling call. Females do not call.

Lifespan

The robust African bullfrog shares with the fire salamander and Chinese/Japanese giant salamanders the distinction of being the longest lived of all captive amphibians. Pixie frogs can be expected to live 15-25 years under optimal conditions, and have been known to live over 30 years. I personally know of 2 specimens that lived for 21 years in captivity, both owned by the same person (interestingly, although housed separately, they died within a few days of one other).

Enclosure

The set up for these large frogs is very simple. They are fairly inactive, so a single frog can be kept in a 15 gallon or larger tank. 36”L x 18”W x 18”H is a good starting point for housing one pixie frog, but larger is appreciated and used.

Males of this species should be housed alone as they can be territorial and aggressive toward other males. Females can be housed in groups with no problems.

Substrate and Furnishings

Moist coco fiber is an ideal substrate; there should be enough substrate to allow the frog to completely bury itself. Coco fiber should be kept moist but not soaking and a vented or screen lid should be used.

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Pixie frogs will also utilize a large, easy to enter water dish for soaking. As amphibians, pixie frogs can’t live without plenty of water. Water used for spraying and soaking should either be bottled from a spring or treated from chlorine and chloramines with amphibian-safe water conditioner.

Although pixie frogs may not seem to do much compared to other frogs, it’s still important to offer a varied landscape within the terrarium so they have freedom of choice. A bare-bones enclosure makes for a bored frog, reducing its quality of life.

Temperature and Lighting

They are best kept between 75-90 degrees F with a 5 degree drop at night. A low wattage incandescent light can be placed at one side of the screen lid to reach desired temperatures. Ambient temperature in a pixie frog enclosure should stay between 75-90°F during the day, and may drop down to no lower than 68°F at night. The warm side should have an air temperature of 90°F and the cool side should have an air temperature of around 75°F. To warm up the terrarium, use a couple of low-wattage heat bulbs on dimmers or a thermostat to make sure they don’t make things too warm.

Pixie frogs can survive without access to UVB, but we still recommend providing appropriate UVB lighting as part of the setup. For best results, use a bulb roughly half the length of the enclosure and housed in a reflective fixture. The frogs should be able to get no closer than 8” to the bulb. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so placing the terrarium in front of a window doesn’t count as “free UVB” - in fact it can make your terrarium too hot due to the greenhouse effect. Lights should be on for 13 hours/day during summer and 11 hours/day during winter.

Humidity

Ambient humidity should average around 60%. Providing at least 4” of naturalistic substrate (“bedding”) will help maintain correct humidity levels and accommodates your frog’s natural burrowing instincts. Layer with leaf litter for best results.

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If kept too dry, these frogs may enter a state of dormancy called aestivation while they wait for the “upcoming rainy season”.

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Diet and Feeding

Pixie frogs are voracious eaters and do best with a wide variety of food items. Feed adult bullfrogs insects such as locusts, crickets, cockroaches, mealworms, moths, beetles and waxworms, as well as fish, earthworms, and mice. Bullfrogs may also be fed an occasional mouse.

For young frogs less than 3” long, offer food daily. For older frogs, they can be fed 2-3x/week. An appropriately-sized mouse can be offered as a meal no more than once every 2-3 weeks.

Juveniles should be fed appropriately sized crickets daily. They will soon grow into monsters that can eat larger prey 2-3 times per week. At Josh’s Frogs, our adult Pixie frogs eat adult crickets and ¾” . They can also be fed earthworms, hornworms, silkworms, and the occasional thawed frozen rodent.

You will need to keep calcium and multivitamin supplements on hand to help prevent your pet from developing a nutritional deficiency, helping it live healthier.

Handling

Care should be taken when handling, as these frogs have powerful legs and are not very agile if they were to be accidentally dropped. During the breeding season, male bullfrogs will call. Their ridged skin means that the African bullfrog is one of the few amphibians that can be handled, although handling still should not be done too regularly or for prolonged amounts of time.

Amphibians generally don’t appreciate petting and handling in the same way that dogs and cats do, but pixie frogs seem to tolerate handling better than most frogs. Handling still shouldn’t be frequent, as it’s still stressful. For best results, wear a pair of nitrile gloves, grasp the frog’s body securely but gently, and keep handling time fairly short.

Terrarium Hygiene

However, one easily-overlooked point - terrarium hygiene - can very quickly end their potentially long lives. In my experience, a lack of attention to this critical point is the most common cause of African bullfrog deaths in captivity. These frogs usually (but absolutely not “always”!) defecate in their water bowl.

The bowl should be cleaned at least once daily, even if it does not appear fouled. R-Zilla Terrarium Cleaner is safe to use on water bowls and terrariums, but wherever amphibians are concerned it is essential that all surfaces are rinsed thoroughly after being disinfected. A very useful product of which I was made aware recently is Hagen Cycle. It is contains huge populations of live beneficial aerobic bacteria, is being increasingly used in laboratory frog colonies, both for aquatic species and in the water bowls of others.

As your frog may also defecate outside of the water bowl, it is important that the entire terrarium can be easily cleaned. Simple set-ups are therefore preferable for African bullfrogs (when designing planted zoo exhibits, I always allow for a floor drain and false bottom, so that the substrate can be hosed down without removing the frog).

Breeding

Breeding Pyxicephalus adspersus in captivity is not a common occurrence. The best way to go about it would be to mimic the seasonality of their natural environment. Give well fed, well hydrated, and overall healthy frogs a 3-4 month dry period with no misting and reduced water in the water bowl or even no water bowl to allow for aestivation.

Next, rehydrate them with heavy misting and pouring water into their substrate. Once the frogs have shed the layers of skin that they have built up as a water retaining “cocoon,” begin feeding heavily for a few days to a week and then place in a large rain chamber with approximately 3 inches of water and surfaces for the frogs to exit the water. Water level should not be kept too much higher than this because amplexus takes place while standing on the bottom and fertilization of eggs takes place above water.

Multiple males being placed in the rain chamber simultaneously could result in aggression and injuries and is therefore not recommended. The introduction to the rain chamber should be timed with a low pressure weather event in order to increase the chance of spawning. If all goes well, female frogs can lay up to 4,000 eggs which will hatch within three days in 75-80 degree water.

Tadpoles are omnivorous and can be fed a variety of flake food, including Josh’s Frogs tadpole food. Metamorphosis can take place as quickly as 30 days at which point froglets should be kept individually in order to prevent any chance of them injuring each other.

Common Medical Problems

Good husbandry is the best way to prevent many problems. Bullfrogs should be quarantined for at least three to six months before being added to an established collection.

  • Red Leg is a generic term for a condition that can be caused by bacterial infection, fungal infections, or environmental issues. This condition will cause an increase to the blood circulation in the limbs. This causes redness on the bottom of the arms and legs often leading to open sores. If these symptoms are seen, please make an appointment with Chicago Exotics.
  • Vomiting/Regurgitating are common signs of gastrointestinal obstruction. If these are noted, an appointment with Chicago Exotics’ should be made immediately, especially if accompanied by swelling or loss of appetite.
  • Internal parasites are diagnosed by a fecal test by a Chicago Exotics’ veterinary professional. A fecal test for internal parasites is recommended at least yearly.
  • Other common signs of problems include loss of appetite, loose stools, difficulty shedding, and lumps/bumps. Please make an appointment with your veterinarian to diagnose and treat any of these problems.

Speak with your Chicago Exotics’ veterinarian or technician about Salmonella and what measures are recommended to limit the risk or transmission to people.

Example of a suitable habitat for an African Bullfrog

Quick Care Guide

CategoryInformation
Scientific NamePyxicephalus adspersus
Common NamesGiant African Bullfrog, Pixie Frog
Native HabitatSub-Saharan Africa, savannahs, shrublands
Lifespan15-25 years (up to 30+ years)
Size (Males)4.5-10 inches (11.5-25 cm)
Size (Females)3.5-5.5 inches (9.0-14 cm)
Enclosure SizeMinimum 15 gallons for one frog, larger preferred
SubstrateMoist coco fiber, leaf litter
TemperatureDay: 75-90°F (24-32°C), Night: No lower than 68°F (20°C)
HumidityAverage 60%
LightingOptional UVB lighting recommended
DietInsects (crickets, mealworms, etc.), earthworms, occasional mice

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