Have you heard about the skin care benefits of African black soap? This recently trending ‘must-have’ for your skin care routine has a history of use that goes back quite some time. African black soap is a traditional, plant-based soap from West Africa.
African black soap (also called African soap or black soap) is the latest skin care product to reach “holy grail” status, and for good reason. So while some may swear by its ability to cleanse and nourish many different skin types, you may be wondering - is it worth the hype?
Dermatologist Alok Vij, MD, breaks down the benefits of African black soap and the right way to use it. With natural antibacterial and exfoliating properties, African black soap acts gently to improve skin texture and tone.
The soap also reduces inflammation and may help treat some signs of aging like dark spots or wrinkles. You can use African black soap on your face, hands, body - even your hair. African black soap is touted for its many potential healing properties. It may help with breakouts, hyperpigmentation, stretch marks, and more.
“African black soap has been around for ages, but we’re learning more and more how powerful and effective this cleanser can be,” says Dr. Vij. “Used properly, it can help protect your skin and may treat a variety of common skin conditions, from dandruff to acne.”
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African black soap is a natural soap originating from West Africa, traditionally made by hand using plant-based ingredients. It typically includes a combination of ingredients such as cocoa pod ash, palm kernel oil, coconut oil, and shea butter. Renowned for its versatility and gentle cleansing properties, African black soap is suitable for various skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.
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Still not convinced? Read on to learn more about this skincare favorite and how you can add it to your routine.
STOP Over-Drying Your Face! Use African Black Soap the RIGHT Way
What is African Black Soap?
African black soap, also known simply as black soap, originates from West Africa, particularly Ghana. Despite its name, traditional African black soap is typically brown, not black (soaps that are jet black often contain artificial additives). Its darker hue comes from local ingredients, including ash made by burning sun-dried plantains, cocoa pods, palm tree leaves, and shea tree bark.
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This ash is mixed with water and oils like coconut, palm, and shea butter, cooked until solid, and hand-stirred for 24 hours before curing. African black soap was first produced in West Africa centuries ago. Today, its exact ingredients depend on where it is made.
Generally, African black soap doesn’t contain lye (a common soap component). It’s usually unscented without dyes or other additives.
Most African black soaps contain one or more of these ingredients:
- Cocoa pod ash, cocoa powder or cocoa butter.
- Coconut oil.
- Palm kernel oil and palm oil.
- Plantain skin ash, leaves or bark.
- Shea butter.
Some African black soaps include honey, aloe vera, lime or camwood (a central West African tree) to enhance their ability to heal, protect and moisturize your skin. Others contain essential oils or oatmeal. Check labels for specific information, especially if you have allergies to skin care products.
As the demand for African black soap has boomed, so has the variety of soaps available. Some are traditional, others more processed. And you have a wide selection of natural ingredients to choose from.
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The real thing - authentic African black soap - is handmade with a dark gray or brown color and an uneven surface. It’s softer than commercial (machine-made) soaps, so its edges may slightly crumble. When it comes to this unique soap, imperfection is a good sign.
First thing’s first: unlike with most skin care products - which are pretty standardized - you will probably never buy the same African black soap twice. Why? Potash from plantain skins or cocoa pods: The pods and skins are cooked until they turn to ash or charcoal. This gives the soap its dark coloring and its purifying elements. But the thing is, plants don’t grow the same way every time, and each batch can contain slightly different proportions of the main ingredients (even if you’re buying from the same brand every time). In western Africa, black soap was created to protect their skin against the arid environment and sun-soaked conditions. This is ultimately a purifying and balancing product, and it can definitely be harsh if that’s not what you need. If you have dry, normal, or sensitive skin, then, it can be very drying and irritating - particularly if you use it on your face.
Even if you do have oily or acne-prone skin, keep in mind that you may expect your skin to go through a purging period when you first start using African black soap. This is especially true if you’re battling skin congestion to begin with, and it should clear after about a week.
Benefits of African Black Soap for Acne
African black soap has gained popularity for its potential benefits in treating acne-prone skin. For mild acne, African black soap can help reduce breakouts with its antibacterial and cleansing properties. For moderate to severe acne, it works best when combined with a skin-friendly diet and topical treatments.
African black soap can be a valuable tool in managing acne, especially for those seeking natural alternatives. African black soap may improve acne and balance the natural oils in your skin.
“African black soap may work for some people who have breakouts,” Dr. Vij says. “The soap helps exfoliate your skin and open pores, while the sulfur and honey reduce inflammation.”
African black soap contains natural ingredients that provide gentle exfoliation. By removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, it helps maintain clearer skin. African black soap can be quite effective at removing excess oil and impurities from the skin.
If you have oily skin, acne prone skin, or excessive dark spots, African black soap can truly help you overcome these concerns and clarify your skin over time.
There are 12 potential benefits of African black soap for your skin:
- Removes bacteria: Studies show that African black soap’s natural antibacterial ingredients work better than medicated cleansers to remove certain harmful bacteria, dirt and other impurities.
- Deep cleans your skin: African black soap’s natural ingredients make it a thorough facial cleanser and makeup remover. Its oils and butters help dissolve makeup, while it effectively removes dirt from your face or body.
- Exfoliates to help improve skin texture and tone: African black soap is much less smooth than other soaps, due to the ashes used to produce the soap, so it works as a natural exfoliant, removing dead skin cells before they clog pores and hair follicles. The plantain skins and leaves found in African black soap are naturally high in vitamin A, which can brighten your complexion, too.
- Helps with mild skin rashes: Some people use African black soap to improve rashes caused by eczema and other types of dermatitis, psoriasis and skin allergies. More research is needed to confirm these benefits of African black soap, says Dr. Vij.
- Treats fungus: Some research suggests African black soap may help control skin fungus, including a yeast called Candida albicans. That means you may be able to use it to treat conditions like athlete’s foot and toenail fungus. The soap also may help control dandruff caused by fungus.
- Moisturizes without stripping essential oils: African black soap’s multiple ingredients help strike a balance - shea butter adds moisture to your skin while coconut oil prevents excess oiliness. These oils and fats lock in moisture but wash off well with water, so you’re not left with a buildup that can clog pores.
- May reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines: Research is needed to know whether African black soap can reduce the visible effects of aging. Shea butter and coconut oil may help plump up wrinkles and fine lines by slowing the loss of collagen, a fiber-like protein that helps make our tissues strong. Exfoliation can also make fine lines less visible.
- Protects against oxidative stress: Exposure to air contaminants, UV radiation from the sun, skin care products and cosmetics affect your skin every day. You can see some of these changes with the naked eye - like dark spots or wrinkles. Others, such as free radical damage to skin cells, are invisible. Antioxidants in African black soap may help protect your skin from these effects and help discoloration fade.
- Reduces inflammation: Rich in vitamins A and E, African black soap’s antioxidants help shield your skin against inflammation and free radicals that damage skin cells. You may find this helpful for inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea.
- Treats dandruff: Yes! You can shampoo with African black soap, too. It may even help treat dandruff, thanks to its moisturizing ingredients. Use it like any other shampoo, lathering it into your hair and then rinsing it out.
How to Use African Black Soap
It may take some getting used to, but soon, African black soap could become a favorite part of your self-care regimen. First, try a little bit on a small area of your body (patch test), especially if you have dry or sensitive skin.
For extra moisturizing, if your skin feels tight after cleansing, choose a black soap that contains shea butter. You can also try adding honey to your soap. Remember, a little goes a long way. Using too much African black soap can dry out or irritate your skin.
You may find it best to use this soap only two to three times a week, switching it up with a gentler cleanser on the other days. Dr. Vij offers these extra tips:
- Cut or pull a small portion of soap off the bar or dissolve it in water, so it’s smoother and gentler to use.
- Lather the soap into your hands before applying to your face, body or hair.
- Massage it into your skin with your hands or a washcloth for about 90 seconds in circular motions.
- Rinse off completely.
- Apply moisturizer and hair conditioner.
Real, unprocessed African black soap has a rough texture. Although the natural texture is ideal for removing dead skin during exfoliation, you’ll want to smooth it out before using it as a regular cleanser.
To do this, simply pull a small chunk of soap off of the bar and rub in between your hands. If you prefer a liquid cleanser, you can dissolve your piece of soap in water before use.
You can apply the bar directly to your skin if you’re looking for exfoliation, but be gentle! The rough texture is already an exfoliant in itself, so you don’t have to scrub. You may also consider rubbing the bar on a soft washcloth first for gentle cleansing or use on rashes.
With whatever method you choose, make sure that you thoroughly rinse the soap off with lukewarm water after use.
Afterward, apply your favorite moisturizer to your damp skin. This will help lock in the soap’s natural hydrating effects.
Here are some steps on using African Black soap:
- Wet the soap: Wet the soap and rub it between your hands to create a lather. For a richer lather, use a washcloth or sponge.
- Apply to skin: Gently massage the lather onto your skin in circular motions. Pay special attention to your face, neck, or areas prone to breakouts.
- Rinse thoroughly: Use lukewarm water to rinse off the soap, ensuring no residue is left behind. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel.
- Moisturize: Seal in the moisture with a good moisturizer.
- Control odor: Apply a nourishing whole body deodorant to areas that tend to sweat, to keep your skin feeling fresh all day.
Precautions and Considerations
While African black soap is generally considered natural and gentle, some people may experience skin irritation or redness. This can be due to individual sensitivities to specific ingredients or the alkaline nature of the soap. To minimize the risk of irritation, perform a patch test before using it on your face or body.
Although African black soap can work well for all skin types, using it correctly is key to preventing unnecessary side effects. Some people find black soap to be drying. You may be able to reduce your risk for this by adding a teaspoon of raw honey to your soap mixture.
If you’re new to raw black soap, consider using it once every couple of days to start. You can gradually increase your use as your skin gets used to the soap. It’s possible to be allergic to any soap. If your skin becomes irritated or you develop a rash, discontinue use.
Natural black soap is also rough, so it can irritate or even break your skin if you’re not careful. Stinging and burning are also possible. If you’re using a raw block of soap, use gentle, circular motions as you glide it along your skin.
The best way to prevent skin breakage is to smooth out the soap and combine it with water, or use it with a washcloth.
Here are some key considerations:
- Dryness: Some variants can over-dry the skin, particularly for those with sensitive or dry skin.
- Lather First: Rub the soap in your hands to create a lather before applying it to damp skin.
- Gentle Cleansing: Be gentle, as undissolved ash granules can scratch the skin.
- Purging: Initially, the soap may cause a “purging” phase where existing impurities come to the surface.
Side effects depend on your skin type and any allergies or intolerances you may have. Some soaps irritate those who have eczema or are sensitive to dyes, fragrances or other ingredients, like sulfur or cocoa. If your skin becomes red or irritated, try switching brands or discontinue use.
Also be careful not to use this soap with chemical exfoliants. The combination may be too strong for your skin. If you have symptoms that persist or worsen, consult your dermatologist.
Table: Pros and Cons of African Black Soap
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Natural antibacterial properties | Can be drying for some skin types |
| Deep cleansing and exfoliation | May cause irritation if not used carefully |
| Balances natural oil production | Rough texture can be abrasive |
| Rich in antioxidants and vitamins | Potential for allergic reactions |
