Natural African skincare ingredients are taking the beauty market by storm these days. As demand for natural cosmetic ingredients has grown not just from the indie but also mainstream beauty industry, botanical-rich Africa has come under the spotlight. Within the Formula Botanica community, we have a host of graduates in Africa and the African diaspora who have launched their brands drawing on the amazing bounty of natural African skincare ingredients. African beauty is on the rise! A-Beauty has captivated the beauty industry with its rich heritage and organic ingredients.
Our list below is a small selection of the rich range of African-origin natural cosmetics’ ingredients. Some will be familiar favourites while others are less known outside their country of origin. We are seeing an increase in retailers specialising in African butters, oils and active ingredients.
African products, and by proxy, their indigenous ingredients, are having their moment. Across the globe, many consumers within and outside the African continent are increasingly drawn to the allure of skincare and cosmetic products that are infused with these ingredients. These materials are cherished not only for their nourishing properties, but also for their cultural significance.
Thanks to organic African brands that continue to globalize the beauty market in the continent, what was once confined to local markets and traditional remedies is now experiencing a remarkable renaissance on the global stage. This allure of African beauty secrets is transcending borders and capturing the imagination of beauty enthusiasts and industry professionals alike. Innovators are harnessing their power, incorporating them into cutting-edge formulations and rewriting the narrative of the beauty industry both home and abroad.
This convergence of tradition and innovation is reshaping the beauty landscape, offering consumers a diverse array of products that celebrate Africa’s wealth of natural resources, while also meeting the demands for contemporary skincare and cosmetic routines. These raw materials are journeying from the soil of their origins to the shelves of global platforms like Sephora and Ulta.
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African skincare is known for its ability to nourish, protect, and restore youthful beauty to the skin. Lots of African skincare products hydrate and nourish the skin. African natural ingredients are full of essential nutrients and antioxidants that help keep your skin healthy. From the rich butters to nutrient-packed oils, Africa is rich in natural elements that have been used for centuries in traditional beauty routines.
Here are some key ingredients that are making waves:
1. Rhassoul Clay
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We start our tour of African ingredients with clay sourced from the North of the continent, Morocco. Rhassoul - also called Ghassoul, red or Moroccan clay - is rich in minerals and nutrients. It was formed from sea mineral deposits millions of years ago and has long been a favourite of spa treatments both professional and at home.
Characteristics: A light pink to deeper red colour, Rhassoul clay is a pure, natural mineral product in dry powdered form. Rhassoul is rich in minerals and nutrients that were once sea water deposits.
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Rhassoul Clay Benefits: Rhassoul when mixed and applied in masks and scrubs has an exceptionally gentle, softening effect on the skin and scalp. Mixed with water or a hydrosol of choice, Rhassoul gently exfoliates the skin absorbing excess sebum to leave the skin appearance toned and more radiant. Clays are best offered as a dry product for customers to mix with water or hydrosols on demand as they are notoriously hard to preserve without using a very efficacious, strong natural preservative system.
2. Shea Butter
Shea butter is a very familiar natural skincare ingredient but it can be tricky to work with and also comes in a bewildering array of grades. Shea butter has among the highest percentage of unsaponifiable compounds (vitamins, phytosterols, minerals and so on) of all vegetable oils and butters. These give it its rich emollient properties.
It is a beloved treasure of traditional African beauty rituals. This ingredient comes from the nuts of the shea tree. It's rich in fatty acid and vitamins A, E, and F.
Characteristics: From white and creamy white to mild yellow and deep gold in colour depending on origin, production methods and whether it is refined or not.
African beauty credentials: Known also as Karité Butter as it comes from the nuts of the Karité tree which grows in the Sehel region stretching from East to West Africa. Top producing countries are Nigeria, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana, Côte d’Ivoire, Benin and Togo.
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Shea butter is harvested in a traditional way, and has been called ‘women’s gold’ for two reasons: African women have known of its emollient properties for centuries; and it is still mainly women who produce it. The UN estimates Shea butter production directly and indirectly employs some 3 million women across Africa who work mostly in organised cooperatives. It is important to find out about the supply chain of any Shea butter you buy. Ethical suppliers will be sourcing Shea from cooperatives and wholesalers who pay a Fair Trade living wage. Also, decide which quality you prefer working with.
3. Argan Oil
Argan is a relative of the Karite’ (Shea) tree, and its nut harvesting and oil bear many similarities to Shea production. Women’s cooperatives are also the prime harvesters of Argan nuts and produce the oil using age-old methods. It is a costly oil not only on account of the manual labour involved but also because it takes around 3kg of the kernals to produce 1kg of oil.
Also known as Morocco's liquid gold. It comes from the kernels of the argan tree, and this precious oil is rich in vitamins, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants. There are also anti-aging benefits in using argan oil.
Characteristics: Golden yellow colour with a mild nutty scent. If it’s too pale, it might have been diluted with other, cheaper vegetable oils.
African Ingredient Credentials: Native to Morocco, the small, spiny Argan tree fruit was used by the country’s indigenous Berbers. As with Karite’ suppliers, we recommend doing your homework to ensure you source argan from ethical, sustainable producers. The oil is exceptionally light, non greasy and yet emollient with a nice skin feel and absorption rate. It has a unique combination of fatty acids (high monounsaturated oleic acid and polyunsaturated linoleic acid) which give it excellent skin nourishing and emollient abilities. It is also rich in vitamin E, squalane, carotenes and antioxidants.
This makes argan a useful oil in anti-ageing formulations and as a well tolerated oil it is ideal in products aimed at sensitive skin.
4. Baobab Oil
With its unusual crown, which looks like roots, the Baobab tree is also called the upside-down tree and is the largest succulent botanical. Its oil has an interesting, balanced combination of fatty acids with an almost even ratio (around 32%) of oleic and linoleic acids. Its palmitic acid gives it a long shelf life of over two years, if stored properly, and means it can solidify at lower room temperatures.
Also known as 'the tree of life.' This oil is easily absorbed into the skin. It's full of essential fatty acids, a wide range of vitamins, and powerful antioxidant benefits. Baobab oil is also another great ingredient that preserves your skin's collagen.
Characteristics: Golden yellow with a light nutty scent which can have mild floral undertones. The flower of the tree though has a pungent, indolic scent which attracts pollinators.
Baobab oil is another Africa oil that is easily absorbed and highly versatile in formulations. Its Omega 3,6, and 9 fatty acids, range of vitamins and powerful antioxidant properties (it has around twice the amount found in pomegranates or goji berries), make it of particularly beneficial in skincare aimed at mature and/or sensitive skin. Baobab is in valuable in working on the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, scarring and hyperpigmentation.
5. Marula Oil
From the sub-Saharan tree known as the King of African trees, Marula oil - ‘miracle oil’ - is highly prized in Africa. Although a less widely known one, has been used for centuries in Africa for it emollient skincare benefits. In folklore, the tree’s bounties were said to foster happy marriages and longevity.
Characteristics: light yellow with a mild fruity-floral, nutty scent.
African Ingredient Credentials: Marula oil is a premium and somewhat newer oil on the market outside Africa and is valued for its exceptional antioxidant properties and for its high (70% on average) oleic acid profile. Along with a range of vitamins, Marula has a lesser known antioxidant in the form of the phytochemical epicatechin. This, along with Marula’s other antioxidant components and its vitamin E, has been found to demonstrate good in-vitro anti-ageing activity. Its fatty acid make up includes palmitic, stearic, oleic, and myristic acids, which have emollient and moisturising benefits. It is a light, well absorbed and tolerated, highly versatile and novel oil in the formulator’s store.
Marula is equally at home and beneficial in anti-ageing formulations as in skincare for oilier skin types, acne-prone skin and for hair and nails. One wonders if its ability to work on the visible signs of ageing may be the reason for its folkloristic uses!
6. Buchu Essential Oil
The plant is a small, evergreen shrub native to South Africa where its leaf extracts (essential oil and powdered leaf) have been used in traditional medicine. The small, shrubby Buchu plant grows wild on mountain slopes in western South Africa and bears small, white flowers. It is part of the Rutaceae family of which citrus are members.
Characteristics: Buchu essential oil has a sharp minty-fruity (blackcurrant type) scent.
African Ingredient Credentials: The leaves are steam distilled to produce an essential oil which on account of its sharp scent has been used traditionally as an insect repellent. The oil is known for its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties but is not used in aromatherapy and needs to be used carefully according to your supplier’s MSDS and COA stated dermal limits. Its high limonene content gives it the distinctive scent.
Used within the recommended limits, it has a useful role to play in mainly rinse-off body care products such as shower gels and liquid soaps. Its antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties and its sebum-mitigating effect see it used in cleansers, masks, anti-blemish and mattifying formulations.
7. Resurrection Plant
The Resurrection plant is perhaps the most incredible of all the natural African skincare ingredients we list here. It looks quite boring but its appearance belies a unique botanical makeup that allows the plant to revive from its dried and seemingly dead state during African droughts. Furled up and desiccated, the resurrection plant lives up to its name as within few hours of rainfall, it appears fully back to life. This feat has of course aroused the interest of scientists.
African Credentials: As the common name suggests, the resurrection plant has great spiritual value in many cultures and has been imbibed with various supposed magical properties over the centuries. The bio-prospecting and commercialisation of such plants as the resurrection bush, which were for centuries sustainably and informally wild harvested, is the subject of much debate.
Almost unknown in veined botanicals, the resurrection plant contains significant amounts of trehalose, a sugar or carbohydrate. Trehalose appears to protect the plants’ cell membranes from drought damage helping them to rehydrate in tact. The plant also contains arbutin, which is a melanin inhibitor decreasing tyrosinase activity. Finally, resurrection has a high level of tannins which not only deter animals from eating it, but which appear to prevent fungal growth on the plant during drought.
As you can guess, the chemical compounds that help the plant survive its harsh environment have been investigated and harnessed in bioactive skincare ingredients.
8. Mongongo Oil
Mongongo, or Manketti tree oil is a relative newcomer to north American and European skincare but it is another versatile, light, protective and emollient oil to explore. A tree endemic to savannahs and Namibian deserts, it has, as you’d expect from a plant designed to survive harsh conditions, properties that help protect the skin from water loss and protect its barrier function.
Characteristics: Light yellow with a nutty (hazelnut) scent.
African Credentials: Mongongo oil from the tree’s fruit kernals is another oil used traditionally in Africa to protect the skin. As it is light, non greasy yet nourishing, it can be used standalone to moisturise and protect the skin and hair or as a massage oil.
It has a substantial amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids (around an average of 50%): linoleic, alpha-linolenic and oleic fatty acids along with a range of vitamins including vitamin E. The high percentage of linoleic acid makes monongo especially valuable in formulations to reduce signs of premature ageing and dry and mature skin.
9. Mafura Butter
Mafura butter from the Cape or Natal Mahogany tree is being touted as the environmentally-sound alternative to palm oil even if not as cheap to produce. The tree grows across Africa, in particular in the Zambezi river plain in Zambia and Mozambique.
Characteristics: Light brown and solid at room temperature.
African Credentials: A beautiful, large iconic tree whose fruit and cold pressed oil has a long use in local medicine. It is very moisturising and therefore ideal for body care products like butters and creams, as well as lip and body balms and also hair conditioning formulations.
It has large round fruit pods bearing bright orange-red seeds which can be boiled up to release the oil which is skimmed off. The seeds are fat rich and for this reason in the mid 20th century, Mozambique mafura butter was produced and exported to Portugal for soap making.
10. Honeybush
A member of the same species as the more famous Rooibos, the honeybush plant has been typically seen as a tea. The whole plant is fragrant giving off a sweet honey scent. In perfumery, the Cyclopia intermedia variety is sought out.
However, research has been carried out on honeybush extracts for their potential as a skincare ingredient. In one research study, honeybush extracts were tested in a solid formulation and shown to have antioxidant activity and to improve skin smoothness (anti scaling effect). Another study concluded that use of a fermented honeybush extract in a test group had showed a decrease in trans-epidermal water loss from the skin and had also had an effect on improving skin wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration.
While there may be more powerful natural African skincare ingredients in our list to work on the visible signs of premature ageing and photo damage to the skin, one thing is for sure about the honeybush; it a fabulous perfumery ingredient.
Additional Key Ingredients
BeautyMatter explores some of the top indigenous ingredients of this beauty revolution in Africa with global founders and suppliers, illuminating their transformative power and benefits in shaping the future of skincare and cosmetics on a global scale.
- Moringa: The seeds of the moringa plant are packed with antioxidants, vitamins, and essential fatty acids, offering a range of nourishing and rejuvenating properties.
- Carrot: Carrots are rich in beta-carotene, vitamins, and antioxidants, and provide a potent source of hydrating and brightening properties.
- Mango: Derivatives like mango butter, mango seed oil, and mango leaf extract are rich in vitamins A, C, and E, as well as antioxidants and enzymes.
- Baobab: African baobab derivatives like baobab oil, baobab seed powder, baobab leaf extracts, and baobab seed extracts have garnered attention for their efficacy and sustainability.
- Jojoba: Jojoba oil balances sebum production, moisturizes without clogging pores, and soothes dry, irritated skin.
African Beauty Brands to Watch
Here is a hand selected list of brands that we at ADJOAA feel are at the forefront of the Sustainable African Beauty Industry. There are so many brands out there that are using their heritage and age old practices so here is our list of brands that will introduce you to the world of A-Beauty.
- Suki Suki Naturals: Is on a fabulous quest to uncover the most divine natural ingredients from the African continent to craft opulent, pure haircare and skincare products.
- Epara: Offers a bespoke beauty brand that nourishes and protects your skin like never before.
- SKNMUSE: Incorporates five of the richest ingredients in the world to create body-care rituals that provide daily moments of sensory stimulation.
- Hanahana Beauty: Considers taking care of your skin should be a daily ritual that leaves you feeling vibrant and confident, not like a chore.
- Skin Gourmet: Has disrupted the industry by creating authentically raw products that need a little TLC just like you!
- LIHA Beauty: Is revolutionising the beauty game by arming consumers with the wisdom of African botany and English aromatherapy, drawing inspiration from their rich Yoruba and British roots.
- Arami: Believes that radiant and healthy skin is a reflection of inner peace.
- 54 Thrones: Experience the magic of African-grown, pure, and organic plant botanicals carefully blended to protect, soothe, and nourish your skin.
- African Botanics: Is more than just a skincare brand - it's a celebration of South Africa's rich biodiversity and commitment to ethical trade.
- Adeba Nature: With Adeba Nature, you can feel empowered to be chic and classy, both inside and out.
- BREAD: Is dedicated to providing you with simple, effective, and stylish hair care essentials that will make your hair routine a breeze.
- Natura Africa: Experience the magic of Natura Africa's natural cosmetics and let the wonders of Africa transform your skincare routine.
- Cinnabar Green: Over the past 12 years, Cinnabar Green's product line has continued to grow tremendously, but our core values of sustainability, responsibility to our planet, and kindness to people and animals have always remained at the forefront of Cinnabar Green's business.
- Ami Cole: Is a revolutionary clean beauty brand designed to unleash your inner brilliance.
- SkinBUTTR: The SkinBUTTR body care collection features whipped shea-based bodyBUTTRS and SCRUBS that will leave your skin feeling silky smooth and rejuvenated.
- Kira Organics: Emerged from this incredible journey - a celebration of the potency of nature and the allure of natural beauty care.
- Wild Earth Botanics: All of Wild Earth Botanic products are crafted from raw and wild harvested healing plants, ensuring that you receive only the best nature has to offer.
- Nokware Skincare: Stands proudly as a Ghanaian beauty brand, deeply rooted in the ancient wisdom of Africa and fueled by modern innovation.
- OBAO: Is not just any skin care brand - it's a revolutionary brand that harnesses the power of Baobab seeds to create oils and extracts of the highest quality, boasting incredible skin-calming and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Marini Naturals: Is Africa's fastest-growing natural African & ethnic hair care line!
- Salwa Peterson: Is not just a hair care brand - it's a celebration of Chadian culture, tradition, and the timeless beauty secrets that have stood the test of time.
- Dibia: Is a dynamic London-based wellness brand that is revolutionising the skincare industry by harnessing the power of African botanicals.
Tips for Choosing African Skincare Products
Figuring out which African skincare product to use starts with knowing your skin type. Is your skin oil, dry, combination, or sensitive? Look for ingredients that will help with your skin concerns. Look out for skincare ingredients like shea butter. Baobab oil is also another great ingredient that preserves your skin's collagen. There are also anti-aging benefits in using argan oil.
