African American Fashion in the 1980s: A Vibrant Decade of Style

The 1980s was a decade that brought about a remarkable transformation in the world of Black fashion. With its unique styles, Black fashion trends of the 1980s evolved into an era that can be considered one of a kind. African-American style icons and musicians played a significant role in shaping these trends, giving rise to a distinctive style that blended elements of streetwear, high fashion, and subcultures such as hip hop and punk. Fashion in the 1980’s was all about being big, loud, very bright and showy, and Black 80’s fashion was all about that too. During the 1980’s African Americans wore an impressive display of clothing that was thought of unconventional and a bit odd.

Fashion of the 1980s was characterized by a rejection of psychedelic colored, ornate fashions of the 1970s. The early 1980s witnessed a backlash against the brightly colored disco fashions of the late 1970s in favor of a minimalist approach to fashion, with less emphasis on accessories. In the US and Europe, practicality was considered just as much as aesthetics.

Some of the fashions from the 1980’s are still very popular. These clothes were not only a great party of fashion history, a lot of them are still loved by people today. In the 1980s, bigger meant better across the board in fashion. A decade typified by its “power dressing,” the 1980s actually opened with stylish sportswear and the soft “New Romantics” style.

80s Fashion Trends from the Decade of Awesome!

Key Trends and Influences

Several factors contributed to the unique fashion landscape of the 1980s in the Black community:

  • Hip Hop Culture: The rise of hip hop music and culture had a profound impact on fashion.
  • Streetwear: The streets of urban America became a runway for innovative styles.
  • Black Style Icons: Celebrities and musicians such as Run-DMC, LL Cool J, and Salt-N-Pepa became influential style icons.
  • "Black is Beautiful" Movement: A cultural dimension of the Black Power movement of the 1960s and 1970s was the slogan that “Black is Beautiful.” The slogan and its associated movement arose out of resistance to racist ideals of beauty that focused on whiteness. By contrast, Black is Beautiful emphasized the aesthetic value of Black bodies.

The Rise of Black Magazines

Taken together with the demonstrated success of magazines like Ebony and Jet, which focused on Black consumers, it seems inevitable that we would see new magazines on Black beauty and Black fashions arise at this time. These magazines’ engagement with explicit questions of Black empowerment would vary, but especially in the beginning, the very act of thematizing Black beauty was a political act. Like all Black magazines, these magazines had to balance political concerns with economic ones: they were businesses aiming to sell a product and so explicit politicization was risky.

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Essence: Essence was the brainchild of Jonathon Blount, a young black salesman. At the time, most of the profitable Black magazines were being produced by activist social organizations, with religious denominations and academics producing smaller magazines. Blount saw an opening for a magazine aimed specifically at Black women, and in 1970 he joined forces with another salesman, Cecil Hollingsworth, as well as the financial planner Edward Lewis and the printing expert Cyril Hill to produce Essence, with the photographer Gordon Parks as their editorial director. Like Ebony, while not opposed to Black nationalism per se, the magazine was intended to be “more woman and less black,” with an early editorial declaring “We do not intend to go through the ‘Mirror-mirror-on-the-wall-who-is-the-blackest-of-them-all?’ syndrome.

Élan: Élan was a black women’s magazine founded by Cecile D. Barker and Jonathan Blount, who had previously co-founded Essence. The magazine focused on women who in the 25 to 54 age range with more emphasis on how to make money than makeup or matrimony. While the editorial staff was confident that the magazine would fill a niche for professional women whose needs were not being met by Ebony, the magazine got off to a rough start, being suspended after three issues and then falling by the wayside.

Black Elegance Presents: Black Elegance Presents is a kind of anthology magazine: each issue covers a different topic. The magazine’s parent publication was Black Elegance, also called BE, which was founded in 1986 and continued into the 21st century. This first issue of the magazine focuses on weddings with a subtitle of Elegant Bride; issue two would focus on Elegant Fashion. As might be expected, a large percentage of the magazine is taken up with photographs of wedding dresses and jewelry. Most of the dresses and suits are clearly heavily influenced by European and North American fashions, though there are a few based on African styles.

Hairstyling Trends: As long as Black people have been in the United States, hair and hairstyles have played into their social status: slaves with straight hair were sometimes afforded places of privilege. In the 1960s and 1970s, however, Black hairstyles that emphasized natural looks and African heritage came to the forefront, and hairstyles became increasingly politicized. This first issue of Hairstyling Trends, a magazine that debuted in spring 1998, focuses almost exclusively on Black hair despite its general name. It offers advice on emulating the hairstyles of a list of 1990s celebrities, mainly singers.

Some events that shaped fashion in the black community was the brother rap group Run DMC and their hit song “My Adidas”. When they dropped that song, everyone wanted some fresh white shall top with the three black stripes going down the side of the shoe.

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Key Fashion Elements of the 1980s

Several distinctive fashion elements defined the Black fashion scene in the 1980s:

  • Power Dressing and Shoulder Pads: This era witnessed an emphasis on power dressing, and shoulder pads became an essential element in achieving a strong and confident look. Shoulder pads were commonly worn in both men’s and women’s fashion, but their popularity soared among black women in particular. The aim was to achieve a structured and angular appearance, reflecting a sense of authority and power.
  • Colorful Tracksuits: In the 1980s, colorful tracksuits became a popular fashion trend. For men, tracksuits usually consisted of a zip-up jacket and matching relaxed-fit pants. The jackets often featured a high collar, ribbed cuffs and hem, and contrasting stripes or patterns down the arms. For women, tracksuits often featured a slightly more fitted silhouette. The jackets were often cropped or had a cinched waist, adding a touch of femininity to the sporty look. The pants were generally high-waisted and snug, accentuating the curves.
  • Kangol Hats: Kangol hats were known for their distinctive shape and logo, which featured a kangaroo. Black fashion trends of the 1980s embraced Kangol hats as a fashion statement and symbol of urban style. They were often worn tilted or turned backward, adding a unique and edgy touch to outfits. Kangol hats became a prominent accessory within the emerging hip-hop culture, popularized by influential artists like LL Cool J, Run-D.M.C., and Grandmaster Flash.
  • Gold Jewelry: The 1980s witnessed several black fashion trends, including the use of gold jewelry as a prominent accessory.
    • Statement Necklaces: Chunky gold necklaces with unique designs were a staple of 1980s Black fashion.
    • Earrings: Gold earrings in various forms were highly favored. Hoop earrings, especially oversized ones, were particularly popular among black women.
    • Gold Chains: Thick gold chains, often known as “rope chains,” were commonly worn as a symbol of wealth, luxury, and style.
    • Bracelets: Gold bracelets, ranging from chunky bangles to delicate chains, were another sought-after accessory.
    • Rings: Gold rings were popular for both men and women. Often African-inspired designs, such as those featuring intricate scrollwork or cultural symbols, were particularly favored.
  • High Top Sneakers: One of the most iconic high top sneakers of this era was the Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars, commonly known as Chucks. While Chucks were a classic choice, other brands like Nike, Adidas, and Reebok also gained popularity with their high top sneaker offerings, especially Nike as it began to emerge with the help of the Jordan brand.
  • Oversized Dress Suits: In the 1980s, oversized dress suits became influenced by the popular power dressing trend of the decade, especially in professional settings. Men often paired these suits with wide ties and dress shirts with large wing collars, while women donned statement jewelry, such as oversized earrings or chunky necklaces.
  • Leg Warmers: Leg warmers were knitted, tube-shaped accessories that were originally designed to keep the legs warm during exercise and dance. Leg warmers were typically worn over leggings, tights, or even bare legs. They added a layer of warmth while making a bold fashion statement. The trend extended beyond everyday wear and was frequently seen in dance and workout classes, bringing a touch of the athleisure aesthetic to the fashion world.
  • Acid-Washed Denim and High-Waisted Jeans: The 1980s black fashion trend of acid-washed denim and high-waisted jeans represents an iconic style that gained immense popularity during that era. Acid washing is a unique process where fabric is treated with chemicals and enzymes to create a washed-out, faded, or mottled appearance. Acid-washed denim was particularly notable for its striking appearance, characterized by irregular, lighter patches or streaks against a darker background. This technique revolutionized the world of denim by infusing a grungy, rock-and-roll vibe into everyday fashion. High-waisted jeans were designed to sit higher on the waist.
  • Puff Sleeves: In the 1980s, puff sleeves were characterized by their voluminous and exaggerated design, adding a touch of drama and flair to various garments. This trend was seen in a wide range of clothing items such as blouses, dresses, and even jumpsuits. The popularity of puff sleeves during this period was influenced by the broader 1980s fashion trends, which emphasized glamour, excess, and individuality.
  • Bomber Jackets: Bomber jackets, also known as flight jackets, were initially designed for pilots during World War II, but they gained widespread popularity during the 1980s. The bomber jacket was predominantly worn by both men and women in urban areas. Bomber jackets became an essential piece of clothing in the 1980s urban fashion scene, often paired with oversized jeans, baggy sweatshirts, or tracksuits. The loose fit of the jacket allowed for freedom of movement and a relaxed aesthetic.
  • Psychedelic Print Shirts, oversized garments, and acid washed denim: No set of clothing would be complete without chains made of gold, earrings made out of bamboo, floppy hats, and Adidas tennis shoes.
  • Jellie shoes: Jellie shoes were also worn by adults and children alike because they were comfortable and in style. However, they were not made well and typically only lasted a few months.
  • Overalls: Women also wore overalls and only fastened one of the straps.
  • Tracksuits: Men also wore tracksuits with matching tennis shoes and hat.

MC Hammer made bright and oversized pants very popular during the end of the 1980’s. Those pants came in a great assortment of materials and prints and defined the hip-hop look. Rapper Kid of the House Party movie series also helps a hairstyle become popular with African Americans. He helped popularize the hairstyle known as the “High Top Fade.” When a person got this hairstyle, the sides of their hair was shaved and they had a square block on the top of their head.

Other Important Figures

  • politician Willie Lewis Brown, Jr. (born 1934) is selected by the California Assembly to become the Speaker of the state legislature. Brown is the first Black person to hold this position. He serves in this capacity for 15 years and in 1995 is elected as mayor of San Francisco.
  • Martin Luther King Jr.’s birthday becomes a federal holiday when Ronald Reagan signs the bill. As a result, Americans begin commemorating the civil rights leader’s birthday on the third Monday in January.
  • Mae Jemison was the first black women to admitted to the astronaut training in 1989.

Some of the fashions from the 1980’s are still very popular. Carrie Bradshaw of the show Sex and the City wore bamboo earrings and a gold chain with her name in block letters. They became her signature style. Louis Vuitton also worked together with the late artist Stephen Strouse to integrate eighties graffiti street art into monogrammed bags, leggings, and shoes.

The Broader Context of 1980s Fashion

Fashion for men in the 1980s largely followed the trends in womenswear. Like women, there was a craze for fitness wear, classic American workwear, preppy styles and “power dressing”. The 1980s also saw many designers expand their ranges to embrace menswear. Gaultier especially looked to play with gender and throughout the decade produced skirts for men, among other designs.

In the early part of the decade, sportswear continued to be popular for men with tracksuits and sports jerseys popular looks. Like women, classic collegiate styles made up the “preppy” look. This included seersucker suits, polo shirts with popped collars and knit sweaters worn thrown over the shoulders. Both men and women wore chunky knitted sweaters.

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In the mid- to late-eighties, power dressing also made it into men’s style with the “power suit.” These were pin-striped, double breasted suits with wide lapels. They were worn with wide ties and complimented women’s power dressing. Men wore bright colored ties and suits were essential for white-collar workers.

There were several other styles that emerged in the eighties, many from “street style.” The concept of street style is a style that emerges from the “bottom” - from a subculture or individual - rather than from spreading “top down” from a designer. This kind of spread of fashion had been happening for several decades, but many new subcultural styles made their mark on both men and women’s fashion in the 1980s. The early- to mid-1980s saw the rise of goth fashion which expanded on punk style from the late 1970s. A key style for both goth and punk looks were Dr Martens boots.

Later in the decade, hip-hop and rap gave rise to its own style in the US. Groups such as Run DMC and the Beastie Boys led the way with their New York-inspired look. Adidas sneakers were worn by both and were especially popular. Their influence lasted throughout the end of the decade, into the next and can still be felt today.

Both men’s and women’s fashion trickled down into children’s wear in the 1980s. However, it also took on brighter colors and bolder patterns. Many styles were worn by both girls and boys. Acid and stone-washed jeans were staples in children’s wardrobes. These styles had high waists and were straight-legged, distinguishing them from the flared jeans of the 1970s.

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