Amber has captivated people for thousands of years, not just because of its warm glow, but because it carries the stories of ancient forests frozen in time. Amber as a raw material for jewelry or amulets has been documented in Europe since the Upper Paleolithic and is still popular as a gemstone today.
But here’s the tricky part: fake amber is everywhere. As demand rises, so do clever imitations - from glass to plastics, from “copal” to resin blends. If you’re shopping for amber, especially online or while traveling, the best thing you can bring with you is awareness.
In this guide, we’re going beyond the usual surface-level tricks. You’ll discover how to tell if amber is real, what it should feel like, what signs to watch out for, and how to use both your senses and science to make sure you’re getting the real thing. By the end, you won’t just be guessing - you’ll know.
One of the great enduring mysteries in the bead business has been the origins of "African Amber" beads. The stories were fabulous: the beads were hundreds of years old (not true), made from bits of real amber and mixed with the resin of a particular tree (not true), became more beautiful as they were worn by picking up the oils in the skin (true!), and had vast spiritual powers (that one's up to you). The legends were epic.
But the reality is no less fascinating. As Rosanna explains, these beads are actually an early plastic known as phenolic resins, and akin to Bakelite, and date from about 1910, with production continuing perhaps as late as after World War II. The Sachse bead manufacturer in Jablonec nad Nisou has been credited with being a major trader in imitation amber and ivory for the African Trade Bead industry known as “Negerkorallen”.
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As amber became more scarce, and the market and prices rose, the companies realized that they needed to find alternative products ~ PF beads, called “precious art resin”, fit that niche perfectly. It is suggested that many sales went through without letting the buyers know the substitution had been made. The Sachse factory museum has a large display of the products Rosanna discussed to lend proof to her research.
The bead shapes were even altered to fit the African market. The rounded barrel forms were altered; cross drilled so that the beads sat flat against the body, geometric designs were burned into the new faces, and then fully reshaped into the better-known diamonds. (see picture attached that is part of Rosanna’s personal collection).
The stability of Phenol Resin beads allowed for extreme cutting and faceting not possible with real amber. The down point is that the chemicals used proved to not be stable, as the color started to change almost as soon as they were formed. Sometimes mistakes happen for the good, as many purchasers preferred these new colors, so the bad-changes were then encouraged by heat, age, and chemical treatment.
This evolved into discovery of beads in numerous shades of amber, greens, browns almost to black, and even reds which were incorrectly named “Cherry Amber”. The largest area of research is to identify the difference between Phenol Resin beads and real amber beads.
This is done by shapes, colors, existence or lack of sparse crackle lines, and density as PF beads are 30% more dense than real amber. Phenol Resin beads can also be found with marbling, surface discoloration, browning caused by age, reaction to oxygen and sunlight but they are not affected by body oils the way real amber is.
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Now, there is even “Fakelite” in the African bead trade. There is a lot of fake amber being sold, but the new beads are not even Phenol Resin beads which now have worth in the bead world, but are being sold as PF beads. Rosanna went into detail about numerous tests you can conduct to verify the content of your beads.
The “Simichrome Test” is done with metal polish reacting with the ammonia contained, “409” which also contains 10% ammonia. However, these tests don’t work if the bead has been baked to a darker color. There are also tests for odors.
The biggest question is “Where did these beads initially come from since history shows they have come into the retail market through African Traders. In the 1800’s the chemical industry in Germany was looking for cheap fertilizers and textiles since they were afraid of running out of natural products such as ivory.
However, it proved to be smelly, very unstable, was flammable, explosive causing many plants to actually blow up! Many of the items made from Celluloid have been replaced by Lucite. But today, Celluloid is still being made in China where environmental regulations are not as closely adhered to, and used to make guitar picks, ping pong balls, and the pearly veneer for accordions and guitar frets.
“PF (phenol-formaldehyde thermosetting resins) normally known as Phenolic Resin was used before WWII in industrial history in the production of imitation amber and bead materials. The element was used as a substitute for hard to find amber and is and was often sold as amber ~ even today, especially in the African Trade Bead industry. It is easily dyed and carved which gave the artists more creative freedom.
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Strands of machined and polished amber-yellow beads are found today in the stalls of many African bead sellers as well as in on-line stores and auction sites. They are normally called “African Amber” or “Copal Amber”. IF the seller is knowledgeable, and knows that they are not real amber, they might admit that the product comes out of Europe, usually Germany, and likely was made between the two world wars.
These beads started to be found in American after 1970 with the importation of large, attractive, amber-like beads from Africa. Phenolic resin is much harder, more rigid, and more durable than the natural amber it imitates. Artisans in Africa have taken advantage of these traits to rework the original beads into beautiful and sometimes intricate works of art (Figure 5). The simplest modification is cross- drilling (drilling a hole perpendicular to the original one) which allows the beads to be worn flat.
European countries entered into the colonization of Africa to stop internal slavery.
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How to Identify Real Amber
Knowing how to identify amber is like learning a new language - the more you interact with it, the more fluent you become. First, you notice the feel. Then the look. But when in doubt, don’t guess. Knowing how to test amber is just the start - getting proof is the peace of mind. If you’re still unsure, let professionals (or certified sellers) do the hard part. After all, this isn’t just about a pretty piece of jewelry.
The Feel Test
Before we dive into UV lights and saltwater bowls, let’s start with something simpler: what does amber feel like? If you’ve ever held genuine Baltic amber, you’ll notice it doesn’t behave like typical gemstones or polished glass. There’s something… softer about it. Not in texture, but in energy. Amber feels light. Warmer than you’d expect. Almost like it’s been sitting in the sun, even when it hasn’t.
Now, some ask does real amber feel like plastic? It’s a fair question - after all, both can be lightweight and smooth. But there’s a key difference. Real amber has a certain organic resistance - like touching something between stone and resin. It’s not slick or rubbery. Plastic, on the other hand, often feels hollow, too perfect, and strangely lifeless.
Here’s another subtle detail people often wonder about: does real amber must have bubbles? The answer is no. While amber can contain tiny bubbles, they’re usually microscopic and randomly scattered - never large or evenly spaced like those in many imitations. In fact, perfectly clear amber with big round bubbles is often a red flag.
And here’s something you probably wouldn’t expect: authentic amber isn’t just warm - it’s slightly grippy. Not sticky, but not glass-smooth either. So before you reach for a test kit, just hold the piece. Let it rest in your palm. Close your hand. Feel the temperature, the texture, the weight. Let your senses do the talking. Ask yourself: Does this feel alive - or does it feel artificial?
Visual Inspection
Amber is visually hypnotic - and that’s exactly what makes fakes so successful. Imitation amber can be beautiful, even convincing. Let’s talk color first. While many assume amber should be a perfect, honey-like gold, the reality is far more varied. Real amber can range from deep cherry reds to milky whites, mossy greens, even almost black shades.
Fakes often aim for the “perfect” golden hue because that’s what sells. What about clarity? Here’s where it gets interesting. Many people assume real amber must be clear, or that it always contains bubbles. That’s not true. Not usually - and when it does, they’re tiny and imperfect. A real piece of amber might contain plant matter, tiny cracks, dust-like textures, or even prehistoric insects - but these inclusions should look random, not staged.
On the flip side, don’t be too quick to dismiss a cloudy piece or one with a strange texture. Some of the most beautiful and valuable amber isn’t clear at all. In other words, knowing what fake amber looks like isn’t about memorizing one image. It’s about training your eye to spot nature’s patterns versus factory patterns.
Home Testing Methods
Let’s say you’re holding a beautiful pendant or bracelet. You suspect it might be amber - but you’re not sure. The good news? You don’t need a lab or expensive tools to start checking.
The first - and often most effective - is the saltwater test. Amber is surprisingly light. In fact, it’s one of the few gemstones that will float in saltwater. Mix about seven teaspoons of salt into a cup of warm water and stir until dissolved. Drop your piece in gently. If it floats, that’s a strong sign you might have genuine amber.
Next up is the UV light test. Real amber fluoresces - it glows under ultraviolet light. If you have a UV flashlight or even a nail polish curing lamp, shine it on your amber. A genuine piece should emit a soft, bluish or greenish glow. Fakes might stay dull or show no reaction at all.
Another method some people try is the electrostatic test. Rub the amber against a soft cloth or wool and then hold it near tiny bits of paper. Real amber can pick them up due to static electricity.
And then there’s the smell test - but here’s where we need a little caution. When gently warmed or rubbed, amber can give off a very subtle, pine-like scent. But some try to test this by applying heat with a needle or flame, which can damage or even ruin the piece - not to mention produce toxic fumes from fakes. So if you’re curious about scent, gently rub the piece with your fingers until it warms up. If it’s real, you might get that faint resinous aroma. If it smells plasticky?
Of course, no single test is perfect. But when multiple tests point in the same direction, you can start feeling confident about what you’re holding.
Professional Testing and Certification
Sometimes, even the most careful observation and home testing can’t give you a clear answer. Professional amber testing uses tools like FTIR spectroscopy - that’s short for Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. It may sound intimidating, but it’s basically a method that analyzes the molecular structure of the material. Genuine amber, especially Baltic amber, has a very distinct chemical fingerprint.
Another method involves gas chromatography - often used to detect succinic acid, the compound that gives Baltic amber its therapeutic reputation. While many people believe amber must have succinic acid to be “real,” the truth is more nuanced: only certain types (like Baltic amber) contain it in meaningful amounts.
Of course, not everyone has access to a lab. But here’s a more accessible solution: certification. If you’re buying amber from a reputable seller, they should be able to provide documentation showing their amber has been professionally tested - either by an independent gemologist or a recognized institution. And if a seller refuses to provide that kind of proof? Walk away.
The Emotional Connection
Imagine a traveler in a busy Baltic market - charmed by a vendor with trays of shimmering amber jewelry. Everything looks stunning. The prices are tempting. She picks out a gorgeous necklace and brings it home, proud of her find. But months later, she reads an article about how to test amber. Out of curiosity, she tries the saltwater test. It sinks. She shines a UV light - nothing. Slowly, she realizes: it’s just colored resin.
We’ve spoken to customers who inherited “amber” beads passed down through generations - only to discover they were early plastic. It’s not just about money. It’s about trust - and emotion. Amber is meaningful. It connects us to nature, to the past, and even to healing traditions. That’s why it’s so important to know how to tell if amber is genuine.
When you know, you can feel confident. And when you’re confident, your connection to the piece deepens.
Tips for Buyers
Start by asking questions. A reputable seller should be able to explain where the amber comes from and whether it has been treated or enhanced. Don’t hesitate to ask for certification - especially if the price is high. If a piece looks flawless, identical to others, or suspiciously shiny, be cautious. Also, compare multiple items. What does fake amber look like compared to others? Often, once you hold a few different pieces, differences in weight, feel, or even temperature become easier to spot. What does amber feel like in the hand?
Bottom line? Trust your gut.
Caring for Amber
Knowing how to use and care for Amber can significantly enhance its healing properties and longevity. Whether you're wearing it close to the skin or using a Baltic Amber chip, the right approach can make a world of difference.
- Wear it Close to the Skin: The most effective way to use amber for healing is to wear it close to the skin.
- Use as a Healing Amulet: Amber can also be used as a healing amulet.
- Baltic Amber Chips: Consider using Baltic amber chips.
- Amber Jewellery: Wearing amber jewellery is another good way to use amber.
- Amber Massage: Lastly, amber can be used in massage therapy.
Cleaning and Recharging
- Cleanse with Tepid Water: Amber, being an organic gemstone, can collect oils and dirt from everyday wear. Cleanse your amber stone by running it under tepid water for a few seconds.
- Use a Soft Cloth: After rinsing, gently wipe your amber with a soft cloth.
- Charge in Sunlight: To recharge your amber, let it sit in a patch of sunlight for a while.
- Bury in Earth: As an earth gem, you can also place amber in the ground or some potted soil to let it renew itself.
Amber in History and Culture
Amber has been prized since antiquity for its warm glow and mystical properties. The ancient Greeks called the stone "electrum," believing it was created when sunlight mingled with the tears of mourning sisters Phaethon and Heliades. Greek philosopher Thales of Miletus made the first scientific study of amber's electrostatic properties around 600 BC.
Across Northern Europe, it was associated with fertility, rebirth and eternal life. It was crafted into jewelry and amulets by Nordic tribes who believed it had magical healing powers. Mysterious amber artifacts like the Sun Stone and Nebra skydisk were created during the Nordic Bronze Age.
In China, it was considered the "soul of the tiger" and used in traditional medicine. It was believed to contain the perfect balance of yin and yang energies. Dating back to 2000 BC, amber was imported by the ancient Chinese via the early Silk Road. Prized amber ornaments have been unearthed from Shang Dynasty tombs.
The diverse civilizations of antiquity all recognized amber as a mystical substance and coveted it for amulets, jewelry and trade.
