Accra, Ghana: A Historical Journey Through Its Suburbs and Growth

Accra, the capital and largest city of Ghana, is located on the southern coast by the Gulf of Guinea. The Greater Accra Region, of which Accra is the anchor, is inhabited by about 4 million people, making it the thirteenth-largest metropolitan area in Africa.

Accra's skyline reflects its growth into a modern metropolis.

Accra was formed from the merger of distinct settlements around British Fort James, Dutch Fort Crêvecoeur (Ussher Fort), and Danish Fort Christiansborg as Jamestown, Usshertown, and Christiansborg respectively. Accra served as the capital of the British Gold Coast between 1877 and 1957 and has since transitioned into a modern metropolis.

The name Accra comes from the Akan word Nkran, meaning "ants," specifically soldier ants, due to the prevalence of anthills in the surrounding countryside. In the local Ga language, Accra is called Ga or Gaga, the same name as that of the Ga people.

The main Ga group, led by Ayi Kushie, arrived in the area by sea. When the Guan people saw them in their canoes, they thought they looked like ants. So, they called them Nkran (ants). This name later became Akra by the Danes, and then Accra. The Ga people also started calling themselves Ga.

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Early History and Colonial Influence

Initially, Accra was not the primary trading center; other ports like Ada and Prampram held more significance. However, the Dutch, British, and Swedes established forts in the area, with Britain gradually acquiring the interests of other countries. In 1851, Denmark sold its forts, including Christiansborg, to the British, followed by the Netherlands in 1871.

In 1874, the British captured Accra. In 1877, after a war, Accra became the capital of the British Gold Coast. This was because Accra had a drier climate than the previous capital, Cape Coast. As Accra became the new capital, more British officials and European settlers moved in. The city grew to make space for them. Victoriaborg was created in the late 1800s as a neighborhood just for Europeans.

One of the most influential decisions in the history of the city was that of building the Accra-Kumasi railway in 1908. This was to connect Accra, the country's foremost port at that time, with Ghana's main cocoa-producing regions. By 1923, the railway was finished.

The colonial era heavily influenced the shape that Accra took during this period. For example, the segregation of European and African neighborhoods was mandated by law until 1923, and all new buildings were required to be built out of stone or concrete.

This changed when Sir Frederick Gordon Guggisberg became governor. During his time, the three separate settlements (Osu, La, and Jamestown) joined to become modern Accra. Guggisberg also built a bridge over the Korle Lagoon in 1923. This opened up land west of the lagoon for new settlements. He also oversaw the building of a major hospital (Korle-Bu) and a secondary school (Achimota).

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In 1948, Ghana was still a British colony. The chief of Osu Alata, Nii Kobina Bonney III, called for a boycott of European goods. This was because prices for important items were rising. At the same time, war veterans were asking for their promised pay. On February 28, 1948, unarmed ex-servicemen marched towards Christiansborg Castle. They wanted to give a petition to the colonial governor. However, the colonial police chief ordered them to stop, and they were fired upon.

When Kwame Nkrumah became Ghana's first Prime Minister in 1957, he made his own plan for Accra. He wanted to create places that would make Ghanaians proud and inspire nationalism. Instead of fountains, he built landmarks like Independence Square and the State House. He also improved Christiansborg Castle.

Today, Accra is built around the original British, Danish, and Dutch forts. Popular places to visit include the National Museum of Ghana, the National Theatre, and the Jamestown Lighthouse.

Stories Behind Accra's Suburbs

Accra’s suburbs each carry unique stories of migration, resettlement, trade, and resilience. These stories, often passed down through generations, offer a glimpse into the city's vibrant past.

Nima: From "Nii Man" to a Melting Pot

The story of Nima begins with an elder from Labadi who moved inland and settled there. When his relatives visited, they would say they were going to "Nii Man," meaning "grandfather’s place" in Ga. Over time, the phrase shortened and morphed into Nima.

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By the 1940s and 1950s, Nima became a magnet for migrants, especially from Ghana’s north and neighboring countries like Nigeria, Niger, and Mali. Hausa became a lingua franca in its markets and mosques. Nima’s character was defined by its diversity, becoming a working-class neighborhood and a political stronghold.

Nima, a vibrant and diverse community in Accra.

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Accra New Town: Lagos in Accra

Accra New Town tells the story of resettlement. During the colonial administration's remaking of Accra’s center, entire communities were displaced. Many Yoruba, who had established themselves as traders and artisans, were relocated further north. They named their new home “Lagos Town,” after their ancestral city.

Over time, “Lagos Town” was changed to Accra New Town. The suburb became a bridge between Ghanaian and Nigerian culture, known for its markets, educational institutions, and dense housing.

Adabraka: From Alabarika to Adabraka

Adabraka's name, according to oral history, comes from Hausa traders who sold cattle, sheep, and goats there. Buyers would plead for a reduction in price, saying "Alabarika," meaning reduction or discount in Hausa. Over time, that repeated plea became “Adabraka.”

Adabraka grew into one of Accra’s most important suburbs, once the seat of the wealthy and home to some of the city’s earliest modern schools and churches.

Pig Farm: The Government’s Agricultural Outpost

Pig Farm’s name comes directly from its use. After the Second World War, the Ministry of Agriculture sought to expand livestock farming. A piggery was established, where pigs were bred and raised for food. Workers and their families settled nearby, and gradually a community took root around the agricultural station.

Though the pigs are long gone, the name “Pig Farm” stuck, and the suburb grew into a bustling residential area.

Kawo Kudi: The Soldiers’ Command

During the 1948 riots, soldiers were called in to restore order. Among them were Nigerian soldiers who would demand money from civilians, barking "Kawo kudi!" in Hausa --- “Bring money!” The area where they camped became known as Kawo Kudi.

Kawo Kudi reminds us that place names are not always born of joy or blessing but can come from struggle, exploitation, and pain.

Accra's Military Geography

Accra is a city of barracks as much as markets. The Second World War had left deep footprints on its landscape. What we now know as Burma Camp was once Giffard Camp, renamed after the war to honor those who fought in Burma. Cantonments, now one of Accra’s most prestigious residential areas, began as a military zone.

Demographics and Urban Development

Between 1960 and 1970, Accra grew quickly with new factories and businesses. This made many people move from rural areas to the city. When Ghana's economy slowed in the 1970s, population growth also slowed. But later, farming in rural areas declined, and city industries grew. This, plus a boom in services in the late 1980s, again brought many people to Accra.

In 2000, the Accra Metropolitan Area had about 10 people per hectare. This was up from 6.23 people per hectare in 1970. The most crowded areas were in the Accra Metropolitan Assembly. Some old parts of Accra, like Accra New Town and Nima, had over 250 people per hectare.

Accra has a very young population. About 56% of the people are under 24 years old. This is expected to continue. About 51% of the population are females, and 49% are males.

About 45% of Accra's residents are immigrants from other African countries.

The following table shows the type of housing and their distribution in Accra:

Housing TypeDescriptionPercentage of Population
Low-Income AreasOsu, Jamestown, Nima, etc. Overcrowded with limited room for expansion.58%
Middle-Income AreasDansoman Estates, Achimota, etc. Planned developments needing better services.32%
High-Income AreasNorth Ridge, Airport Residential Area, etc. Well-planned with good services and spacious grounds.10%

Accra Today

Today, Accra is the administrative, economic, and educational center of Ghana. The city contains the head offices of all of the large banks and trading firms, the insurance agencies, the electricity corporation, the general post office, the large open markets to which most of the food supply comes, and the Accra Central Library.

The city is also a transportation hub, home to the Kotoka International Airport, and railway links to Tema, Sekondi-Takoradi and Kumasi.

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