Welcome to a comprehensive guide on the care of Yellow Nigerian Uromastyx, also known as spiny-tailed lizards or mastigures. These fascinating reptiles are gaining popularity in the pet trade due to their unique appearance and interesting diet. This guide provides valuable information based on scientific research, natural history data, and the experiences of longtime keepers and breeders of this species.
Uromastyx (Uromastyx sp.) are a group of diurnal, terrestrial lizards native to desert areas of North Africa and the Middle East. Uromastyx have a full-bodied build with stout limbs, a large abdomen, rounded head, bulging cheeks, and a spiky tail. The shape and length of the tail varies by species. Depending on species, they can have a variety of colors and patterns, including red, orange, yellow, green, blue, tan, brown, black, and/or white.
There are approximately 20 different Uromastyx species and subspecies. The following lists the approximate maximum total length (snout to tail) of each:
- acanthinura - 16″ / 40cm
- aegyptia aegyptia - 30″ / 75cm
- aegyptia leptieni - 20″ / 51cm
- aegyptia microlepsis - 30″ / 75cm
- alfredschmidti - 17″ / 43cm
- benti - 15″ / 39cm
- dispar dispar - 15″ / 38cm
- dispar flavifasciata - 20″ / 50cm
- dispar maliensis - 15″ / 38cm
- gehryi - 15″ / 38cm
- macfadyeni - 9″ / 22cm
- nigriventris - 16″ / 42cm
- occidentalis - 21″ / 54cm
- ocellata - 11″ / 28cm
- ornata ornata - 15″ / 37cm
- ornata philbyi - 13″ / 34cm
- princeps - 11″ / 27cm
- thomasi - 10″ / 26cm
- yemenensis - 12″ / 30cm
Uromastyx dispar maliensis, U. geyri, and U. are commonly available in the pet trade. These lizards are native to north Africa and the Middle East. They are true heat-lovers and can be found out basking even during the hottest part of the day.
If you pay attention to providing high-quality uromastyx care, they can live for over 25 years, and quite possibly up to 60.
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A young female yellow saharan uromastyx (Uromastyx geyri).
Enclosure
Uromastyx are diggers by nature and if given the chance will dig several feet down. This species is extremely active and will require large amounts of floor space. Hatchlings can be easily housed in a 20 gallon aquarium or enclosure of a similar size although they will quickly require larger accommodations. As Uros grow they will need a 40 gallon breeder tank or larger (keeping in mind floor space is important) or a custom enclosure.
Although uromastyx lizards vary widely in size, a good rule of thumb is to plan for no smaller than a 4’L x 2’W x 2’H / 1.2 x 0.6 x 0.6m enclosure. Particularly large species, however, such as U. aegyptia, will need something much larger - at least 6’x3’x3′. The enclosure should be front-opening for easy access, with excellent ventilation. Ideally, the top should be mesh rather than solid.
It is highly recommended to offer an enclosure that is roughly 5-6 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet tall for adults. Uromastyx require space to roam and sprawl out. Make sure that all enclosures are sturdy and escape proof. Enclosures will also need to withstand intense heat as well. Various levels created using rocks and branches will help the lizard utilize all potential space and provide enrichment.
Here are some enclosures that ReptiFiles recommends for housing uromastyx, based on expected adult total length:
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- 18″ / 45cm long or less:
- Zen Habitats 4’x2’x2′ Meridian Reptile Enclosure
- Dubia.com 4x2x2 (120 Gallon) Reptile Enclosure
- Toad Ranch BC48 4’x2’x2′ Luxury Reptile Enclosure
- 24″ / 60cm long or less:
- Kages 6’x2’x2′ Premium PVC Reptile Enclosure, with “2 square screens” top option
- Zen Habitats 6’x2’x2′ Meridian Reptile Enclosure
- Toad Ranch BC72 6’x2’x2′ Luxury Reptile Enclosure
- 30″ / 75cm long or less:
- Kages 8’x3’x3′ Premium PVC Reptile Enclosure, with “2 square screens” top option
- Toad Ranch TRC 8’x3’x3′ Luxury Reptile Enclosure
ReptiFiles strongly recommends providing larger than the minimum.
Cohabitation
Possibly. Most species of uromastyx can be housed in pairs or small harems with one male and multiple females. However, you must be willing to buy/build an enclosure that is at least double the recommended minimum size. In other words, it’s best to stick to one lizard per enclosure.
Lighting & Temperature
Uromastyx Setup for Beginners
To provide appropriate UVB to a sun-loving uromastyx, use a bulb, roughly half the length of the enclosure and placed on the warm side.
If the UVB is mounted over mesh, place the basking surface so the lizard’s back is 8-12” below the lamp. If the UVB is mounted inside the enclosure, place the basking surface so the lizard’s back is about 14-20” below the lamp. Bright light with a color temperature of around 6500K is strongly correlated with optimal mental and physical health in uromastyx. Full-spectrum lighting is not the same as reptile UVB lighting, so you will need two separate lamps.
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As desert-dwelling lizards, Uromastyx are adapted to hot, dry conditions. Their enclosure should include a basking area that reaches a daytime high in the 100º to 120ºF range. They must, however be able to get out of this heat. A long enclosure can easily provide this ability for the lizard to thermoregulate (choose the temperature it needs). Bulbs should be chosen that emit UVB rays in addition to heat. UVB rays are important for all diurnal (active during the day) lizards being kept indoors. Uromastyx benefit greatly from not only heat but the absorption of these rays. Night temperatures should be less than the daytime temperatures.
Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated. Uromastyx, however, are cold-blooded, which means that they have to move between areas of different temperatures to regulate their body temperature. Uromastyx warm up by basking under the sun in the wild.
100w PAR38 halogen flood bulbs should be plenty to achieve those basking temperatures if you build up the basking platform to be about 10-12” below the heat lamp. However, if you notice that they’re getting too hot, dial it down with a plug-in lamp dimmer or reduce the height of the platform. I strongly recommend constructing a special type of basking platform for your uromastyx called a Retes stack. To measure the basking surface temperature, use an infrared thermometer (a.k.a. temperature gun).
Ideal Temperature Gradient:
- Basking surface temperature: 120-130°F (49-55°C)
- Cool zone temperature: ~85°F (29°C)
Humidity
Uromastyx require very low ambient humidity levels - around 20-30%, as measured by a digital probe hygrometer with the probe placed on the ground on the cool side of the enclosure. However, uromastyx do benefit from having access to some kind of humid “burrow” in their enclosure. This is usually a burrow they’ve dug out for themselves in the substrate, so it’s advisable to periodically add water to the substrate to help prevent burrows from collapsing and make sure the burrows maintain healthy humidity levels.
NOTE: Certain coastal Uromastyx species prefer more humid conditions than average. U. yemenensis needs an average humidity of around 50%, and U. macfadyeni needs it to be around 30-35%.
Substrate
Uromastyx are healthiest and happiest when they are housed on a substrate (a.k.a. “bedding”) that imitates the conditions of their natural habitat. In northern Africa and the Middle East, that habitat is typically sand or very sandy soil. So the substrate in your uromastyx’s enclosure should be fine sand or sandy soil, packed at least 4” deep - preferably deeper, if at all possible. Feces and urates should be removed daily, and the contaminated substrate should be scooped out and replaced. Sick or wounded uromastyx should not be kept on a loose substrate.
Decorations
Decorations play an important role in your uromastyx’s enclosure as environmental enrichment. Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing. At bare minimum you will need a flat basking stone and a couple of places for them to hide.
Diet
Uromastyx are true herbivores, which means that they need an entirely plant-based diet to get the nutrition that their bodies need. Juveniles should be fed as much as they can eat daily and adults should be fed 4-5x/week, with roughly 60% of their diet coming from dark leafy greens, 30% other vegetables, and 10% seeds. The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your uromastyx is VARIETY!
Safe greens:
- collard greens
- cactus pad
- spring mix
- arugula
- kale
- pea shoots
- alfalfa
- bok choy
- carrot greens
- spinach
- dandelion greens
- hibiscus leaves
- endive
- clover sprouts
Interestingly, Uromastyx also need seeds (ex: lentils, white millet) as a regular part of their diet. These provide an important source of protein, fat, and other nutrients, BUT contribute to obesity when fed in excess. Offer a small amount no more than 1x/week.
Edible flowers such as nasturtium, dandelion, rose petals, hibiscus, and squash blossom can also be offered. Fruits can also be added to your Uromastyx diet, but must be given sparingly. Fruit can be added along with greens once a week. Lentils (soaked in water) can also be given as an occasional treat.
We recommend calcium and vitamin supplements to help prevent your lizard from developing a deficiency.
Uromastyx are well adapted to living in drought conditions and get most of the water they need from their food. We recommend providing a shallow water dish about the size of a petri dish or mayonnaise jar lid for all species of Uromastyx. This water should be purified or dechlorinated.
Handling
Uromastyx generally tame down well, but it’s important to remember that each is its own individual, and some tame faster than others, while some never become tame at all. This may take a while, so be patient! After bringing your uromastyx home, leave it alone for 2 weeks or so to settle in.
Introduce yourself with food via your fingers or soft-tipped feeding tongs. Meanwhile, make sure to get your hands in the enclosure daily for spot cleaning, water changes, etc. Once your uromastyx regularly takes food from your hand, encourage it to climb onto your hand. To pick up your uromastyx, always gently scoop it up from below and support as much of its body as possible. Never approach quickly or from above, as this is predatory behavior that will scare your pet. As you handle your uromastyx, keep your movements slow, and only loosely restrain it (if at all).
Remember - it is NEVER okay to release animals. Many pets released into the wild are unable to survive. If your pet does survive, it can become an invasive species that can be harmful to native wildlife, the environment, and the economy.
