Wind-swept, bohemian, and dripping in charm - Essaouira is Morocco’s laid-back coastal gem. Essaouira has a laid-back, bohemian feel to it. The city has always attracted musicians and artists from within Morocco and abroad. The creative essence lingers throughout the fabric of the city. It’s evident within the European style café-lined main strip; the abundance of art galleries; and the unbridled expression of the people who meander it.
For those who are a bit spooked about visiting Morocco, Essaouira should quell your fears. It’s a small city, with a chilled pace; you can comfortably walk the streets as a solo woman or with children in tow. Welcome to Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador and now nicknamed ´the white city´ or ´the windy city of Africa´. This Moroccan destination housing around 80.000 inhabitants is a charming, windy port town on the Atlantic coast; it´s without a doubt one of the top places to visit in the country, and it actually ranks as my favorite now. But unlike Marrakech, Essaouira offers a slower, calmer pace. If you are tossing up a visit to either Marrakech or Essaouira, the latter would be my recommendation.
What makes Essaouira special isn’t just its coastal beauty, but its perfect mix of culture, history, and ocean breeze. An absolute dream to photograph! Since hippies adopted Essaouira as their very own mecca in the 1970s, it remains a city of artists frequented by independent travelers, especially surfers. The pace here is slower, the people friendlier, and the vibe much more relaxed than its bigger Moroccan sisters (take Fez or Marrakech for example).
Essaouira is a walled city, lined by the Atlantic Ocean. I think there’s a certain calming quality that comes with the presence of water close by.
Essaouira's medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is full of history, culture, and charm.
Read also: Jeffreys Bay Guide
Getting to Essaouira
Essaouira is on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, roughly 2 hr 50 min west of Marrakech. There are a few cities in Europe that fly directly to Essaouira-Mogador Airport. The Essaouira-Mogador airport is 17km (20-minute drive) from the city centre. Alternatively, you can fly to the nearby cities of Marrakech or Agadir and make your way to Essaouira via bus, taxi or shuttle. The two main bus companies in Morocco are CTM and Supratours.
Essaouira is a 3-hour drive west of Marrakech via bus. Supratours has 6 buses departing from Marrakech to Essaouira each day. Agadir is 3.5 hours south of Essaouira. CTM buses travel from Agadir to Essaouira 3 times per day. NOTE: There are no direct bus routes from Tamraght or Taghazout to Essaouira. Not ones to shy away from a long car ride; many taxi drivers will be willing to take you from Marrakech to Essaouira. Simply, head to the nearest Grand Taxi station (the big yellow and white taxis) and make your request.
The shuttle company Souk to Surf is usually my preferred way to travel the Moroccan surf coast. If you feel like you have what it takes to brave the Moroccan roads, then I recommend hiring a car and driving from Agadir to Essaouira. This stretch of coastline is well worth exploring.
Best Time to Visit
As a coastal city, Essaouira offers pretty temperate conditions all year round. The winters are mild with an average of 19°, and the occasional rainy day. And unlike the inland regions of Morocco, Essaouira doesn’t experience soaring heat, instead offering a pleasant summer average of 28°. With that said, July and August are the peak months for tourism in Essaouira. In summer, both international travellers and Moroccans flock to the city for a seaside vacation. However, whilst the temperatures in Essaouira don’t reach extremes - the winds certainly do.
Crowned as the ‘Windy City of Africa’, the Atlantic breeze gets pretty feisty between July and August. If you’re keen on windsurfing or kitesurfing, then you’ll be in for a treat. It depends on your wider travel plans; whether Essaouira will be your one-stop shop, or just one of many look-ins on your Moroccan travel itinerary. If you’re taking a leisurely road trip up the surf coast (visiting Tamraght, Taghazout and Imsouane), then it can be nice to spend a few days in Essaouira to experience all the amenities of city living. If you’ve got your sights set on nowhere but Essaouira, then I think a week in the city would be ideal. The medina is small enough to explore every nook within a day.
Read also: Morocco Surf Camp Guide
Things to Do in Essaouira
Whilst the architectural wonders of the city will draw you in, it’s the treasures hidden between the labyrinth of streets that will hold you captive. Whether you’re searching for a leather bag or raffia sandals, handmade ceramics or Beldi soaps and Argan oil, you can find what you’re looking for in Essaouira. Shopping in Essaouira feels far less chaotic than Marrakech. I suppose there’s less competition, and thus less pressure to rope you in. You can take your time; accept the store owner’s offer to join him for a mint tea whilst you peruse his bounty of antique jewels.
As a tourist, you can wander the bustling fishing port and watch the fishermen haul in their daily catch. The fishing harbour sits beside the ramparts and Sqala du Port (fortified walls and defence tower), remnants of the city’s military era. It’s pretty incredible to picture the city as it once was.
Essaouira has a huge art scene. The city itself acts as an open-air gallery; the streets are lined with art stores and boutiques and artists selling their creations from makeshift exhibitions on the pavement. There are several art galleries showcasing local and international talent that are well worth visiting.
No trip to Morocco is complete without indulging in the traditional bathing ritual of a hammam. In a city that feels inherently regal, the queen-like pampering is appropriate. Essaouira is dotted with hammams and spa houses.
The Medina follows a grid pattern, which is a blessing for those of us who are geographically challenged. Essaouira is one of the main hubs for sardine fishing in Morocco. All of the wooden boats are painted in a deep azure blue; a colour that supposedly lures in fish. You can buy fresh seafood directly from the fisherman and have it cooked for you at one of the restaurants within the harbour.
Read also: Surfing in Morocco
Every town and city in Morocco has a local souk. It’s an open-air marketplace where farmers and craftsmen sell produce and livestock alongside secondhand clothes and various knick-knacks. Essaouira’s souk is located 25 minutes out of the city, in the village of Had Draa. From the Grand Taxi station, north of the media, you can catch a collective taxi to Had Draa for 10dh (€1) per person. The Had Draa souk only operates on Sundays until 12pm.
Map of popular surf spots around Essaouira.
Surfing in Essaouira
Essaouira has a bit of surf when the winter swells bring suitable waves for beginners. With that said, if windsurfing or kitesurfing are more your forte, then Essaouira will be your windy paradise.
Dive into the soul of Essaouira by surfing its waves with those who know them by heart. Our local instructors, driven by passion and good vibes, take you on an authentic journey, where every wave becomes a discovery. Let yourself be guided by the energy of the ocean and the expertise of those who have made it their playground. During our surf lessons, we offer you a unique experience, in a relaxed atmosphere and full of good vibes! We start with a warm-up and an introduction to safety at sea, then move on to the basics: stand on the board, paddle, and ride the waves.
Known for its reeling right-hand point breaks, unbelievably long rides, and reliable and consistent swell year-round, Morocco’s been luring surfers to its 1,800 miles of coastline since the early 60s. At the core of its surf allure, at least for the pros and surf advanced, are the 500-meter rides at Anchor Point, followed closely by the fast-breaking barrels at Killers Point (also known as Killers). Just five miles south of Taghazout, Tamraght offers a more relaxed surf base while still being within reach of Taghazout’s bounty of breaks. It’s also home to plenty of its own beginner and improver-friendly surf spots, like Devil’s Rock (also known as Imouran), Banana Point and Beach, and Crocro (also known as Crocodiles).
Although there’s not a top, top surf break right on the doorstep in Essaouira like you get in Taghazout or Imsouane, we actually kinda’ like the city as a surf camp base. The reason? Well…we like the city full stop. It’s medina is truly atmospheric, there are great places to eat, excellent cafes - the list goes on. If you’ve got a camp that includes transport to local breaks anyway, you’ll probably be surfing in Sidi K and then returning to enjoy the cultural draws of the city later on. Of course, the better option is staying in Sidi K and traveling up to Essaouira when you want a taste of the town.
While Essaouira can certainly live up to its nickname “Wind City of Africa,” its waves aren’t always wind-battered, blown out, and better suited for kitesurfers, especially if you time your surf trip for the less windy fall and winter months. The massive crescent-shaped beach and bay known as Tagharte sits just beyond the city’s UNESCO-protected fortress walls and atmospheric medina, while the Mogodor Islands offshore play gatekeeper to the beautiful, beginner-friendly swell that rolls in.
When the wind and waves aren’t working together in Essaouira, you can always hire a taxi and try Sidi Kaouki 20 minutes south instead. Just a 30-minute train ride south of Tangier, Asilah is an up-and-coming, still empty surf destination in Morocco with a gorgeous white-washed and art-covered medina right up against its azure waves. No longer a secret spot, the heavy and barreling sand point break of Safi is the stuff of surf legends when it’s working, and unfortunately that isn’t too often.
The Essaouira surf is perfect for kitesurfers looking for some of Africa’s most wind-battered spots. But there are also beach breaks and point breaks aplenty on the coast to the south. We also love that it’s the gateway to Sidi Kaouki, one of the upcoming learner locations of North Africa.
Best Surf Spots in Morocco for Beginners
They call Essaouira the wind city. It’s easy to see why. The strong sirocco from the Sahara meets the seasonal trade winds off the Atlantic at this point on the Moroccan coast. They swirl and smash into each other to create pretty much constant gusts.
The city does boast a long scythe of golden sand just on its southern side. It’s a gorgeous beach, but also gets some decent beginner waves during the winter season, when cross-Atlantic westerlies are in full flow. In addition, the southernmost end of Essaouira beach is a veritable mecca for kitesurfers.
Sidi Kaouki is a small village a little over 30 minute’ drive from Essaouira. It’s fast become the best surf town on this stretch of Moroccan coastline. You can easily get there in a private taxi and rent a board when you arrive or sign up to one of the regular surf trips run by outfitters based in Essaouira itself. The breaks are all on along and very beautiful stretch of beachfront. There are five or six named peaks, including a right-hand reef point break that offers something for more seasoned surfers at the north end of the bay. Summer is often blown out.
Surf Spots in Southern Morocco
Southern Morocco encompasses the 150-kilometre-long stretch of coastline between Sidi Kaouki in the north and Anza in the south. Within this stretch are a bunch of different surf zones that boast pointbreaks, beaches and hollow slabs, but the most well-known spot in Southern Morocco is Taghazout.
It's here where you can surf the legendary Anchor Point and experience the unique bohemian-meets-Moroccan surf culture that Taghazout is famous for. There's also Tamraght, which you may or may not have heard of. It's a village located about 10 minutes south of Taghazout. In our opinion, Tamraght offers a more laidback and authentic surf travel experience. No matter where you bunker down though, all the spots on this list can be easily reached from either of these two locales.
Like all surf zones around the world, the question of when is Southern Morocco at its best comes down to your surf skill level. For beginners and those still learning the ropes, the *summer months are ideal. The waves are historically smaller and weaker, which means you can practice in surf suited to your abilities without the fear of being overwhelmed by heavier surf.
The weather and water are also way warmer than most of Europe, the UK and the States during these months, which means blue skies and sunny days plus boardshorts or bikinis sessions are possible. For intermediate and advanced surfers seeking bigger, punchier surf, the autumn and winter months are where it’s at. Peak surf season is December to February when powerful ground swells travel thousands of kilometres from the North Atlantic and light up the entire Moroccan coast… much to the delight of our favourite Moroccan local.
The offshore tradewinds are also more consistent during this time, which makes for some very memorable days. Again, the air temp and water are also much more pleasant than in most of Europe, the UK or the States (but you’ll still need a wetsuit). *In saying that, you can still book a trip during peak season as a beginner and find waves given the number of sheltered spots just south of Southern Morocco (Agadir etc.).
Here are the top 5 surf spots in Southern Morocco:
- Sidi Kaouki - An expansive beach with lots of peaks (plus a sneaky reef)
- Imsouane - One of the longest righthanders in the world
- Anchor Point - Morocco's most famous righthand pointbreak
- Banana Point - A sheltered pointbreak in Tamraght
- Anza - A consistent beachie with a variety of breaks
Sidi Kaouki is a beautiful surf destination for all levels. Not only does this long beach have lots of individual sand banks to choose from, but there's even a sneaky reef and point break (hello, Cap Sim) if you want to up your game. Of course, Sidi Kaouki isn’t the best wave in Africa, but it's fantastic if you want to go from whitewash to green wave. Plus, the sand dunes and quintessentially Moroccan setting make it extra appealing.
Imsouane is a classic Moroccan pointbreak and one of the longest righthanders in the world. It runs into a bay and longboarders often claim rides of hundreds of metres and more. It has enough push and plenty of sections to whack if you feel so inclined. Most of the time though it’s a mellow, sand and rock bottom wave.
Anchor Point can hold up to triple overhead swells and run for nearly 300 metres when it's big. It can also support a decent size crowd since there are multiple takeoff zones. This is where intermediate and advanced surfers come when the waves are big and the tide is low.
Banana Point is kinda like Anchor Points' little brother. It's a righthand pointbreak too but it can't hold as much swell as Anchor Point. The good news is that Banana Point in Tamraght is somewhat sheltered from north winds. Surfing here is cruisy about 90% of the time, but don't be fooled into thinking this is a basic wave. Banana Point can and does get really good thanks to the sand and cobblestone bottom that provides enough push for surf craft of all shapes and sizes.
Anza is a wide-open stretch of sand that's often very fun and very consistent with both a lefthander and a righthander plus multiple peaks along the beach. The beachie on the right side is great for beginners. Very mellow and soft when small. On the left side, you’ll find an A-frame wave that breaks over a reef with a decent righthander. It’s more suited to advanced surfers.
Surf Camps and Schools
If you’ve got a camp that includes transport to local breaks anyway, you’ll probably be surfing in Sidi K and then returning to enjoy the cultural draws of the city later on. Of course, the better option is staying in Sidi K and traveling up to Essaouira when you want a taste of the town.
Here are a few surf camp and school options in and around Essaouira:
- Holy Surf Maroc (8-day surf and yoga) - A full week of daily lessons and yoga practice (six of each in total) based in the nearby town of Sidi Kaoki.
- Atlanticzin Watersports (4-day beginner pack surf camp) - Stay in a gorgeous riad hotel in the heart of the medina of Essaouira. Each day, surf lessons take place either on the city beach or in nearby Sidi and all transport is included.
- Essaouira Surfing - Two hours of beginner-friendly surf in uncrowded spots is what’s promised by this very highly rated outfitter. They include wetsuit rental, boards, and transport to a local break. It’s made up of on-sand practice and then in-water practice.
- Explora Watersports - They also run fantastic surf lessons during the winter season (when there’s not much wind around Essaouira).
Tips for Planning Your Surf Trip
As we’ve already said: Essaouira is FANTASTIC for city breaking and getting some Moroccan culture while doing some surf on the side. One of the best ways to mash the two together in a single trip is to book yourself onto a planned surf lesson.
Here are some additional tips for planning your surf trip to Essaouira:
- Best Time to Surf: The winter is the best time to surf in Essaouira. That means coming between November and March, when there are strong NW currents in the Atlantic and - crucially - the wind here dies down a little. The summer months are much more blustery and better suited to kitesurfers.
- Wetsuit: Bring your warm wetsuit (4/3) for the winter months. Boots may be necessary for longer sessions. A 2mm all over will do in the summer season.
- Surf Shops: Gipsy is the best surf shop in Essaouira by a country mile. It’s sleek and breezy with uber-friendly staff. They stock well-known global surf brands to some local tees and shorts.
Where to Eat
We’d say that Essaouira is one of the best cities in all of Morocco for dining. But we’re veggies and that’s largely based on the more European offering of foods that’s often meat-free.
- Shyadma’s Vegan Food: Arguably the best veggie/vegan food we had during our whole time in Morocco. The chickpea tagine is damn fine.
- Pasta Baladin: A small Italiano eatery on the main street of the Essaouira medina. Meals are a nice break from Moroccan cuisine - think linguine and tagliatelle with a choice of tomato and cheese sauces.
- The Hungry Nomad: Just as much a social event as a place to grab a bite to eat. Just 65 dirham gets you ...
Is Essaouira Worth Visiting?
Yes! Essaouira is one of Morocco’s most charming coastal cities - known for its relaxed vibe, historic medina, Portuguese ramparts, and windsurfing scene. Unlike Marrakech or Fes, it’s much more laid-back and easy to explore on foot. Visitors love the Atlantic sea breeze, fresh seafood, and artistic culture.
Essaouira is a great place for beginner and intermediate surfers. The beach break near the medina has consistent waves, especially in autumn and winter. Several surf schools in town offer lessons and board rentals.
No, Essaouira is relatively affordable for most travellers. Accommodation, food, and activities are typically cheaper than in Marrakech or Casablanca. You can find great seafood meals for under 100 MAD, surf lessons starting at 200 MAD, and lovely riads or guesthouses for budget to mid-range prices.
Essaouira Beach is wide and sandy, great for walks and sunbathing.
Quick Facts
Here are some quick facts to help you plan your trip:
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Is swimming possible in Essaouira? | Yes, but swimming conditions can vary. Essaouira Beach is wide and sandy, great for walks and sunbathing. For safer swimming, head to Sidi Kaouki or Cape Sim, just a short drive south. |
| How many days should I spend in Essaouira? | 2 to 3 days is the perfect amount of time to explore Essaouira. That gives you enough time to wander the medina, walk the ramparts, enjoy the beach, and take a day trip to nearby spots like Sidi Kaouki or an argan oil cooperative. |
| Is Essaouira a good place to surf? | Yes. Essaouira is a great place for beginner and intermediate surfers. The beach break near the medina has consistent waves, especially in autumn and winter. Several surf schools in town offer lessons and board rentals. |
| What should I wear in Essaouira? | Essaouira is more relaxed than other Moroccan cities, but it’s still respectful to dress modestly. For women, flowy pants, long skirts, t-shirts, and light scarves are ideal. Men typically wear shorts or trousers with a shirt. |
| Is Essaouira expensive? | No, Essaouira is relatively affordable for most travellers. Accommodation, food, and activities are typically cheaper than in Marrakech or Casablanca. |
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