Café Roha: A Taste of Ethiopian History and Cuisine

Café Roha, located in the DeVargas Center, brings the vibrant flavors and rich history of Ethiopian cuisine to Santa Fe. Chef and co-owner Rahel Fikre-Selassi navigates the dining room, creating a welcoming atmosphere for all. The restaurant opened quietly in mid-August in the space formerly occupied by Tree House Pastry Shop and Coffee House.

A Glimpse into Ethiopian History

Ethiopia, often considered the cradle of humankind and coffee, boasts a rich tapestry of religious influences. Judaism, Islam, and Orthodox Christianity have shaped Ethiopian culture over centuries, with nearly half of Ethiopians still identifying as Orthodox Christians. Saint George, the patron saint of Ethiopia, is often depicted in Ethiopian-owned establishments.

Though Ethiopia evaded complete colonization, it experienced a period of Italian occupation under Benito Mussolini from 1936 to 1941. Ethiopian cuisine has been influenced by millennia of grain, seed, and spice trade with the Middle East, Asia, and the Mediterranean.

True Ethiopian cuisine remains deeply rooted in its traditions and should be appreciated as a unique culinary language and ritual.

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The Menu at Roha: A Culinary Journey

The menu at Roha, named after a city that the Ethiopian Orthodox church changed to Lalibela in the 12th or 13th century, features a variety of dishes, including salads, sandwiches, traditional dishes, and sides, with a selection of European-influenced desserts.

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For those seeking classic Ethiopian flavors, the doro wot ($13.95) is a must-try. It's a stew of bone-in chicken in a spicy berbere sauce with gomen, braised greens with cardamom and other spices. Sega alicha ($13.95) features braised beef blended with turmeric, cardamom, garlic, and ginger, served with flatbread and braised greens. All entrees come with plenty of injera, a soft, spongy flatbread that has a slight tangy kick.

The restaurant also offers generously portioned salads with fresh ingredients like tomato, carrots, bell peppers, cucumber, and red onions in a light citrus vinaigrette.

Table: Popular Dishes at Roha Ethiopian Restaurant

Dish Name Description Price
Doro Wot Stew of bone-in chicken in a spicy berbere sauce with gomen $13.95
Sega Alicha Braised beef blended with turmeric, cardamom, garlic, and ginger $13.95

The Ethiopian Dining Experience

Ethiopian dining is a communal experience. Diners peel off a piece of injera bread and use it to grab bites off the plate. Piling the plates in the middle of the table and sharing it all, family style, is common.

To complete the meal, consider trying the gelato and sorbet, made locally by Ecco Gelato & Espresso, with flavor recommendations from Fikre-Selassi. A chocolate sorbet with fig sauce ($4.65) is an outstanding choice when available.

Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, and coffee beans even adorn the tables. It's traditional in Ethiopia to end a meal with a coffee ceremony.

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