When considering a place to retire overseas, Morocco doesn’t usually spring to mind. After all, this northern African nation is often imagined as a dangerous, poverty-stricken desert kingdom, where women’s rights are suppressed, and religious and social tolerance simply doesn’t exist.
But modern life in Morocco is very different from these long-held stereotypes. Many adventurous expats have chosen to embrace life in a country with a remarkably diverse landscape-from dry deserts, lush cedar forests and cool mountains, to coastal towns and sunny beaches, all at an incredibly affordable cost of living. They claim it’s safe, the government stable, the infrastructure modern.
So, let's delve into the realities of retiring in Morocco, separating fact from fiction, and investigating its potential as a viable, and rewarding, retirement destination.
First Impressions: A Mix of Old and New
Arriving in Fez, Morocco’s third largest city and former capital, can be a shock to the system. The cab ride can be frenetic, with the driver whizzing in and out of traffic, cutting across busy lanes in congested roundabouts, and aggressively playing chicken with daring pedestrians. When dropped at the end of an alley just outside the ancient Medina, you might be shocked by your medieval-looking surroundings.
Men pull hand carts overflowing with oranges and olives, spilling them over the narrow, bumpy streets, amongst decrepit buildings. Donkeys haul sacks of grains as cars honk and try to squeeze around them, while robed men carry chickens, dangling at their sides-all amidst the noisy chaos at food kiosks that resemble NYC newsstands.
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As soon as you step from the cab, you might be immediately approached by a well-dressed man claiming to be a paid representative of the government’s “welcoming department”. This is your first encounter with a “tout”-a faux guide-who offers “free” assistance or directions with the expectation of a tip, or the purchase of a tour, as gratitude. They can smell newcomers from blocks away and are very adept at scamming tourists.
The Allure of the Medina
The Medina of Fez has not changed much over the last thousand years. It’s a maze of skinny, meandering, car-free alleys and lanes, lined on both sides by pushy vendors selling all manner of goods-fruit, meat, pastries, leather goods, carpets, health products, argan oil, clothing…if you can think of it, it’s probably here. It’s a shopper’s dream, but good negotiation skills are paramount- these guys will take you for more than a donkey ride if you don’t know how to play the game properly.
The Expat Experience: One Perspective
One expat, Karl Mangialardi, a transplant from Pennsylvania who’s lived in Fez for eight years and has scoured its every nook and cranny, shares his insights. He knows all the hidden gems of both the ancient and modern city-where the expats love to hang out, and where only the most adventurous of them dare to roam.
Why Retiring in Morocco Might Be the Best Decision of Your Life!
Why Morocco?
After having retired and taught English in 5 countries, on 4 continents (including the US), Morocco is best for me. It offers a peaceful, affordable lifestyle with fresh foods and adequate health care. Moroccans are good people. Very welcoming and nice. Because they are polite and expect you to be polite, learn at least a few words such as please and thank you.
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Daily Life
Respect the dress code. The Atlantic and the Med, main roads are good, trains are very inexpensive. First class is worth the little money extra. It's convenient to go to Gibraltar and Spain.
Language is the most challenging aspect of being retired abroad. Graciously accept the local foods when offered. People will respond in a good way. Never say a version of 'this is not what we eat back home', or 'this is not how we do it back home'. Do not compare.
Learning the 'secrets' of a place is rewarding. The best restaurant, the elderly woman who loves to tell stories in broken English, volunteering with a project and finding how the real people live. Great food everywhere.
Financial Considerations
You have to prove your income. If you bring money into the country and convert it to Dirhams, you cannot export them.
It depends on lifestyle. My favorites are enjoying the ocean, and a Moroccan mint tea. It also depends on what kind of neighborhood you choose.
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Healthcare and Safety
Healthcare is good in Rabat. However, in other areas it is not as good. Very safe. Pickpockets are around, but have never had a problem. Nothing like Barcelona.
Transportation
Some areas have the tram there's bus service, which some people don't like. Taxis are cheap. If you go for a big taxi, you may have to wait until enough people jump in, going the same direction. If you hire it by yourself, it's expensive.
Final Thoughts
If you're very attached to home/family, it will be harder. Choose a place you think you'd like, spend 3 months there. Not a 3 week "honeymoon" when you still have stars in your eyes. When reality sets in, do you still love it? If so, welcome home.
Essaouira: Another Perspective
Essaouira is a small town with a nice expat community which seem to be grouped by language, French, German, & English. There are some in the group who have lived here for 15 years +!
Things to Do
Essaouira is a very walkable town & a popular activity is walking on the beach, promenade, in the Medina & around town, there hikes you can do in the countryside of Essaouira as well. There are a number or restaurants, bars & galleries, as well as a few small museums. A Gnaoua music festival comes around every year in June, & various other events come through town as well. Of course, because it’s known as the Windy City, kite surfing & surfing are very popular sports. Also, there are various yoga classes all over town, amongst various other classes such as cooking classes, art classes, etc.
Healthcare
The health care consists of a new clinic & a city hospital. If you’re healthy, it’s not an issue, there are a few doctors in town to see. If you have serious or chronic issues, a larger city might be more suitable for you. Most expats I know with serious problems go to Marrakech or Casablanca for care & better equipment. Also, there is an Irish doctor in Marrakech that many expats go see. Facilities are just more sophisticated in Marrakech than they are here.
Cost of Living
A budget of $1500 a month will get you far but that depends on your lifestyle, members in your family, etc. Rent is reasonable, food is extremely fresh & a very good value. And eating out won’t break the bank.
Pros and Cons of Retiring in Morocco
To summarize, here's a table highlighting the pros and cons of retiring in Morocco:
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Affordable cost of living | Language barrier (Arabic, French) |
| Diverse landscape and culture | Potential culture shock |
| Welcoming and polite locals | Healthcare limitations in some areas |
| Good transportation infrastructure | Bureaucracy and administrative challenges |
| Safe environment with low crime rates | "Touts" and potential scams |
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