Pieter Both Mountain is part of the Moka Range that rises above Port Louis in northwestern Mauritius. The Pieter Both Massif, with its rocky peak overlooking the mountain, does not go unnoticed. When you visit Mauritius, you will notice here and there high rocky areas. Depending on the angle of view, the imposing rock seems unstable and one comes to worry about the houses situated at the bottom of the slope if one day the idea came to him to hurtle down the descending slopes of the giant.
Named after Pieter Both, who was the first Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, Pieter Both is one of the most beautiful mountain peaks in Mauritius. Pieter Both, sometimes referred to as Peter Botte Mountain, is the second highest mountain of Mauritius, at 820 metres (2,690 ft) tall. The mountain is slightly shorter than Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire by eight metres.
The mountain is also noted as the erst common habitat of Hyophorbe amaricaulis, the world’s rarest palm tree of which a single specimen survives today. It proudly culminates at 823 metres above sea level and is the second highest mountain in Mauritius.
Pieter Both Mountain, Mauritius
Distinctive Features
Its cuspate peak is crowned by a precariously balanced, round boulder, which is its characteristic feature. The notable feature of this mountain is the gigantic rock formation at the very top of it, which resembles a human head.
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The uniqueness of its appearance having a boulder-type rock standing proudly on a peak is just magnificent, and by mentioning ‘icon’, this picture is even representing the island Mauritius in tourism logos. And that even fits perfectly, to say the least.
Climbing Pieter Both
Enjoy a supervised climb to the top of this beautiful mountain and admire its slender peak, lush surroundings and panoramic views of the island. For a safe and enjoyable climb, book an exceptional excursion exploring the mountain.
Pieter Both Mountain's guided walking tour is essential for all visitors to Port Louis, the charming capital of Mauritius. Spend an adventurous day climbing the second highest mountain in Mauritius.
Important note: Reaching the summit is no longer possible without climbing gear.
To climb the mountain following the main ridge takes about an hour, and is mildly difficult. It is mainly a scramble, and being exposed, a rope is advised. The dramatic boulder on the pinnacle is about nine metres in diameter, and has several iron spikes fixed to it to aid climbing to the top.
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The Ascent
Get up early and take a taxi that will take 30 minutes from Port Louis to the small village of La Laura, at the foot of Pieter Both. The route begins in La Laura. When you reach town there is a three way split.
After a safety briefing by your instructors, you will be equipped with helmets, harnesses and ropes. Follow the guides along a winding mountain trail and notice the richness and diversity of the island's flora and fauna. Pass the trees and colourful birds. Try to spot the rare Mauritian kestrel in its natural habitat.
Two local guys, one of whom was celebrating his 24th birthday, also joined us. Jah briefed us on the route and the equipment. The inclination picked up no sooner than we entered the forest. Assisting ropes were already installed at the steepest parts. I didn’t use them, but they proved helpful to our less experienced teammates. The view from there was already spectacular.
As the crops diminish, the trail narrows. We have in front of us the Two Udders before branching off to the left to penetrate under the cover of some coloured woods, numerous guava trees and privet trees which seem to be invading more and more Mauritius. The ascent is first of all pleasant for a short distance before going through a small rocky ravine.
The path alternates earthy, basalt and rocky parts, sometimes very high. The description of this ascent differs little from the other ascents on the island: a narrow, straight path with a very steep slope where guava trees are indispensable to help the ascent.
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Further up, after the only real bend in the path, we continue on a new bottom of the talweg over huge, sometimes unstable rocks. The effort is violent but surmountable until one reaches a new basaltic obstacle of almost 10 meters high. The place can be discouraging and presents a real danger if one has difficulty to be sure.
It is time to think about going back down for the more cautious. The others will choose a natural passage on the right or a little pebble-steps in the centre. Make sure you always have three points of support.
Higher up, after a new stretch of pebbles, there are other tricky passages and the slope becomes steeper and steeper. After several hours of picturesque hiking, you will arrive on a magnificent cliff and admire the hills of the Crève-Cœur valley.
After a refreshing break, the guides will help you up the rocky shoulder of the cliff above. The last exhilarating part of the mountain climb requires supervised climbing with safety ropes. Scramble the glorious ridges as you perch on the majestic summit of Pieter Both.
From this point of view, see the fascinating rock formation perched on the mountain top; it looks like a human head. After the difficult ascent, a relaxed descent of the mountain takes 3 hours.
Personal Experience
I remember the first time we drove to northern Mauritius. We’d pulled over in the middle of the motorway and stared incredulously at this most astounding natural spectacle. Its dramatic loftiness summoned our adventure-seeking spirits.
We planned our tour with Jah, a young, fun, and energetic guide from a nearby village. He was very effective and mindful in organizing the trip, and most importantly, a pleasant company. We met at 9 am by the football pitch at La Laura Top Rank Sport and Environment Club (Google Maps), on the southern foot of Pieter Both, where the trailhead is found.
We had a snack while Jah climbed ahead to fix his own ropes beside the permanent ones. A helicopter approached, rumbling as it swerved off its collision course with the peak at the last moment. It was the first of many helicopter tours that flew around us during the rest of the ascent. Around that time, a lone paraglider appeared.
We secured ourselves with prusik knots on the rope and began tackling the steepest part. As I mentioned, most was a grade-4 climb with a short 5A section. The others pulled themselves up with the rope. I managed to rock-climb it on sneakers.
A bunch of wild pigeons whisked away urgently as soon as we emerged over the boulder rim. A white tropicbird, less shaken, kept circling the peak, flaunting its graceful tail. Some swallows showed up later to attack our drone after we released it. The view was epic.
Nearly the entire island lay below us, only the south coast hiding behind the southern mountains. Crammed in the five or so square meters of the boulder’s top surface, we had lunch, basked in this privileged moment, and began our descent.
Hiking to the Shoulder
Hiking to the shoulder just below the summit is a short, but physically demanding hike. There two gullies that are require easy climbing moves to ascend, but the rocks can be very slippery and potentially dangerous. Climbing after a lot of rain, or if there is a risk of rain, is not a good idea.
Go straight and follow this road until the paved section ends. Turn right here and follow this road to its end. Begin walking on the trail that is straight ahead. The trail will reach a T junction, turn right. Shortly thereafter you will reach a junction with a few other trails.
The path straight ahead is the most clear, but will lead you nowhere. Take the trail to the north/right here - there is a bit of white flagging on the trees - and continue on this trail. The trail from this point on will be marked with plastic waterbottles stuck onto branches. It will lead you to a rocky drainage.
Follow this drainage for a few hundred feet. Pay attention as it will diverge to the south/left. Turn and continue until you reach a large boulder. The trail will proceed through trees and brush for a bit before reaching a dry stream bed.
You will follow this dry stream bed to a set of steep gullies. The first gully has a few different paths up, but the one in the middle has stones stuck into the crack that make it easier to ascend. The second gully seems to be the easiest to ascend on the right side.
After the gullies, climb your way up the steep vegetated slope carefully choosing your hand/footholds. A trail will become apparent that will go towards the right/northeast. Follow this trail, climb over the small boulder in the path - this will be the most intimidating part - and then walk your way along the trail/ledge towards the shoulder. The trail appears faint and questionable with a cliff below, but under the vegetation it is quite solid and well made.
Return the same route being very careful about your hand/foot holds. The GPS signal/track becomes weak as they gully steepens, but the trail/destination is clear. Proceed up the gullies and then work your way around to the east on a small shelf to the shoulder.
Mauritius - Climbing Pieter Both Mountain 4K
Practical Information
Here's a summary of key facts about Pieter Both Mountain:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Height | 820 metres (2,690 ft) |
| Prominence | 823 metres |
| Location | Moka Range, Mauritius |
| Named after | Pieter Both, first Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies |
| Difficulty | Mildly difficult; scramble, rope advised |
| Climbing Time | Approximately 1 hour to the main ridge |
Pieter Both offers an unforgettable experience of Mauritian nature to his visitors.
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