My mother’s box holds colours. Yellows and reds and oranges and blues and colours with names I do not know grace tastefully patterned Abada fabrics. Each fabric is folded meticulously. Each fabric is accorded respect. On Sunday mornings, she picks one to go with a lace blouse and ichafu isi (headscarf) and like fragile beings, they are folded back into the safety of the box after church. From childhood, I have associated these fabrics with home and I hope to inherit some of my mother’s wrappers someday.
Nigerian fabrics are vibrant tapestries woven with history, culture, and artistry. They are characterized by the use of mostly colorful, vibrant designs.
During my NYSC in Ogun State, wearing Ankara on all the days of the week was the norm. On the days I wore jeans and t-shirts or single-coloured gowns, I was the odd one out. In the town I lived in, the afternoon sky was often vivid blue and the sparse houses and domineering trees was a fitting backdrop for the bright fabrics that the people wore.
I have always been drawn to colour and owning Ankara fabric satisfies that yearn in me. Even though I like black and white pictures, I feel a certain discontent when the vibrancy of Ankara fabric is dulled using that effect. Also, the various colours and patterns of these fabrics remind me of the beauty and intricacy that human beings are capable of. And with the things I find beautiful and intricate, I am eager to learn their origin.
African fabrics are standard made with a total length of 6 yards (548 cm). This is partly due to the fact that from this standard length both a skirt, a top and a headscarf or sling could be made. Because our customers use these fabrics for many more applications, we offer the fabrics starting from a 1 yard (91cm) length.
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The possibilities of African fabrics are literally endless. Everywhere you want to apply color you can use these fabrics. Of course the fabrics are often used to make beautiful clothes like dresses, skirts and tops. Apart from the application for clothing, the fabrics are often used to make headscarves, baby slings, jewelry and even shoes. Also, these fabrics are used for upholstering furniture, making patchwork, quilting, upholstering lamps, making tablecloths, making works of art, decorating parties and so on!
Let's delve into some of the most popular and significant Nigerian fabric material types:
1. Ankara
Ankara is a type of fabric that is often used in African clothing. It is characterized by its brightly colored patterns and bold designs. Ankara fabrics are typically made from cotton or wax-coated cotton, which gives them a glossy finish. The wax-coated cotton is less common and is often only used for special occasions. Ankara fabrics are usually printed with traditional African motifs, such as animals, nature scenes, or geometric patterns.
It is an African staple, often referred to as “African print” or “Dutch wax,” since it originated from Indonesian batik techniques that were adapted in Europe before being brought to Africa. Ankara fabric has developed from traditional wear to modern fashion. It represents the fusion of heritage and modern style. Ankara fabrics carry a lot of symbolism and meaning, enabling people to convey their identity through clothing.
The fabric is widely popular in Africa and has recently gained popularity in the United States. Thanks to its vibrant colors and stylish designs, different types of Ankara fabrics are famous for fashion accessories such as bags, shoes, and scarves. It is also becoming increasingly popular in home decors, such as curtains and throws.
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In all my research, I could not find the exact reason why it is called Ankara. I did see though, that Ankara is the name of the method used in the making of the materials in some parts of Africa.
The only other Ankara I found is the capital of Turkey and researching this place showed no connection to the fabric. If you know why it is called Ankara and you are willing, please share this information in the comments below.
Till date, the highest grade of wax prints (Vlisco) being sold in Africa is of Dutch origin. The popular and affordable Hi-target is of Chinese origin. There are a few African brands such as DaViva in Nigeria and Sotiba Simpafric in Dakar, Senegal that sell quality fabrics.
Even though many people think that the final product ( the African wax print fabric ) contains a kind of stiff wax layer, this is not the case. The term wax comes from the coloring process of the fabrics, where the colors are applied to specific parts of the fabric, by shielding the other parts with a wax layer (nowadays mostly resin). This wax layer is then removed, and after the whole process the fabric is still thoroughly cleaned.
I have a somewhat sentimental theory concerning our eager acceptance of wax print and our subsequent appropriation of it. This theory has much to do with the mutual experience of colonisation and similarities in cultural fashion tastes in Indonesia, Nigeria and other parts of West Africa. It is half-baked so I won’t share it here.
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This African wax print fabric is perfect for making your own colorful clothes. 100% quality cotton which is printed on both sides. Many designs are known in the fashion of African countries.
Ankara fabric with vibrant patterns
2. Kente Cloth
What is Kente Cloth? The History, Symbols & Storytelling of Ghana’s Iconic Cloth
Among the many types of African fabrics, different types of kente are perhaps one of the best known. Originating in Ghana, Kente is a brightly colored cloth that is often used for special occasions. Kente cloth is handwoven on a loom and consists of strips of fabric that are sewn together. The colors and patterns of different types of kente cloth often have symbolic meaning and can indicate a person’s social status or tribe.
Kente cloth hails from Ghana and is perhaps one of the most recognized African textiles worldwide. Its origins can be traced back to the 11th century, with a rich history deeply intertwined with the Asante Empire. According to legend, Kente was inspired by a spider’s web, discovered by two men who learned the art of weaving from the spider, Ananse. The vibrant colors and patterns of Kente cloth are not merely decorative; they hold significant meanings. Each design can represent various proverbs or historical events, making it a form of storytelling. Kente’s intricate patterns and vibrant colors epitomized wealth, status, and cultural sophistication.
Kente cloth is typically made from strips of cotton or silk and features various colors and patterns. The name “Kente” comes from the Akan language and means “basket.” Kente cloth is traditionally associated with royalty and is often worn by kings and other members of the African aristocracy. Today, Kente cloth is widely available in the Western world and is often used in the design of academic robes. Kente cloth is also famous among tourists who visit Africa, making it a beautiful and unique souvenir.
Kente cloth with symbolic colors and patterns
3. Adire
Adire is a Yoruba word that means “tie and dye.” This traditional textile printing technique is believed to have originated in the Dogon kingdom of Mali in West Africa. Today, Adire fabrics are handwoven by Yoruba women in southwestern Nigeria. These beautiful fabrics are widely sought after by buyers from all over Africa.
Adire (meaning “tied and died”) is an indigo-dyed cloth that is produced by the Yoruba women of southwestern Nigeria, using a variety of resist dye techniques. Original Adires were simple tied designs on locally woven hand-spun cotton cloth much like those still produced in Mali. In the early decades of the twentieth century however the new access to large quantities of imported shirting material made possible by the spread of European textile merchants in certain Yoruba towns, notably Abeokuta, enabled women dyers to become both artists and entrepreneurs in a booming new medium. In the 1920s and 30s Adire was a major local craft in the towns of Abeokuta and Ibadan, attracting buyers from all over West Africa but by the end of the decade problems over quality caused by the spread of synthetic indigo and caustic soda and an influx of new less skilled craftsmen, led to a collapse in demand. The more complex and beautiful starch resist designs continued to be produced until the early 1970s. Today, not much good quality Adire is being made in Nigeria and most surviving old pieces have already disappeared into museums and private collections in the USA and Europe.
There are two main types of Adire fabric: resist-dyed and direct dyed. First tying sections of the fabric create resist-dyed Adire with string or other materials to create a resist. The fabric is then dipped in indigo dye, which only penetrates the un-stretched sections of the fabric. This results in a beautiful design with different shades of blue. Direct dyed Adire is created by directly painting or printing Indigo dye onto the fabric. This results in a bolder, more graphic design.
Adire fabrics are traditionally made from handspun cotton cloth, but nowadays, you can find them made from various fabrics like silk, wool, and synthetic materials. These beautiful fabrics are often used for making African cloth types and other items like home decor items and bags.
The dying art of Adire was revived by Nigerian artisans like Nike Davies-Okundaye, Amaka Osakwe, and Duro Olowu in the 1990s. Since then, it has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in Nigeria and internationally.
Adire fabric with tie and dye patterns
4. Isi-Agu
Different cultures in Africa have types of African print fabric dress. One such type of traditional dress is the Isi-Agu, worn by the Igbo people of eastern Nigeria. The Isi-Agu is a rich fabric traditionally made from velvet or cotton material. It is used to create pullover shirts that may be long or short-sleeved.
Traditionally, the Isi-Agu was worn by men when they became chiefs of their respective tribes. This robe was worn along with a red fez hat to show the superiority of the chieftain. It was also worn along with an Igbo leopard cap. To show the superiority of the wearer, this robe was fitted with gold buttons and a gold chain.
In the present era, Igbo women wear these unique African printed fabrics in different styles on special occasions like weddings, the birth of a child, etc.
Isi-Agu fabric with leopard print designs
5. Aso Oke
Aso oke fabric, (pronounced ah-SHAW-okay) is a hand loomed cloth woven by the Yoruba people of southwest Nigeria. Aso-Oke means top cloth in the English language.
Aso Oke is a traditional Nigerian fabric often used for special occasions like weddings. It is usually made from cotton or wool and is available in various colors and patterns. Men typically wear Aso Oke, but women can also wear it.
Aso Oke is an African fabric typically used for making special clothing items such as Agbada, fila, Iro, and Buba. The fabric is usually brightly colored and has types of African print fabric. Modern fabric manufacturers have reduced the thickness of the threads using modern techniques and have included animal and floral motifs.
Aso Oke fabric used for special occasions
6. Nigerian Lace Fabrics
Nigerian lace fabrics are popular for weddings and special occasions. Here are some examples:
- Aisunne Nigerian French Lace Fabric: Made from polyester, sequins, and lace, this 3D lace fabric is perfect for party wedding dresses, skirts, shawls, and scarves.
- Bestway Elegant French Tulle Embroidery Nigerian Lace Fabric: Made from imported polyester and lace, this delicate fabric is ideal for dresses, prom gowns, bridesmaid gowns, and wedding gowns.
- SanVera17 Nigerian French Fabric: Made from polyester, lace, and rhinestones, this fabric is great for sewing dresses, shirts, skirts, shawls, and scarves.
And many more. With the perfect Nigerian lace fabric, you will certainly be the center of attention.
7. Other African Fabrics
Besides the above mentioned fabrics, here are some other popular African fabrics:
- Ukara-Ekpe: A sign of respect, worn only by titled men and older women in African tribes.
- Bogolan (Mudcloth): A handmade Malian cotton fabric traditionally dyed with fermented mud.
- Barkcloth: Made from the trees of the Moraceae family, this fabric is the pride of tribes in Uganda.
- Shweshwe: A printed and dyed cotton fabric that is very popular across the globe, known for its complex geometric patterns.
- Kikoy: A type of African fabric that is handcrafted from cotton yarn.
- Kanga: A type of East African fabric known for the words of wisdom, love, blessings, and friendship printed on them.
Here is a table summarizing some of the key features of these Nigerian and African fabrics:
| Fabric Type | Origin | Material | Characteristics | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ankara | Nigeria | Cotton or wax-coated cotton | Brightly colored, bold designs | Clothing, accessories, home decor |
| Kente | Ghana | Cotton or silk | Handwoven, symbolic colors and patterns | Special occasions, royalty, academic robes |
| Adire | Nigeria | Cotton, silk, wool, synthetic | Tie and dye technique, indigo dye | Clothing, home decor |
| Isi-Agu | Nigeria | Velvet or cotton | Rich fabric, often with leopard print | Traditional Igbo clothing |
| Aso Oke | Nigeria | Cotton or wool | Hand-loomed, brightly colored | Special occasions, Agbada, fila, Iro, Buba |
| Bogolan (Mudcloth) | Mali | Cotton | Dyed with fermented mud, intricate designs | Clothing, decoration |
| Barkcloth | Uganda | Tree bark | Durable and versatile | Clothing and decoration |
| Shweshwe | South Africa | Cotton | Geometric patterns | Clothing and decoration |
African fabrics are unique and beautiful, making them famous for clothing, home decor, and more. When adding a touch of Africa to your wardrobe, there are many different types of fabric to choose from. At perfect textile, we can source suitable materials from actual weavers, so you can be sure you’re getting the authentic experience. From traditional designs to modern prints, we have something for everyone. We also take care of the entire process from design to delivery so that you can be assured of timely delivery of your unique African-themed collection. With our wide selection of prints and fabrics, you’re sure to find the perfect way to accentuate your style.
We are dedicated to promoting textiles made by Black artists around the world.
Exploring these traditional African fabrics reveals a world rich in culture, history, and artistry. As you wear or use these textiles in your homes, remember that you are a part of a greater story, one that pays homage to Africa’s rich tapestry of cultures while celebrating its lasting impact on the global fashion scene.
For more on African fashion, and history, follow and shop Adire and Batik clothing from Mbili Fashion on Instagram. High quality African fabrics.
