You’ve seen it. That bright, beautiful, and incredibly comfortable-looking garment that commands attention in any room. The roots of the garment are not lost on anyone-it is an unmistakably African item. The dashiki is a colorful garment that covers the top half of the body, worn mostly in West Africa.
But what does a dashiki symbolize? More than just a comfortable garment, the dashiki is a symbol of affirmation. It represents a deep connection to African roots, a celebration of Black history, and a statement of pride and protest against Western cultural norms.
What Exactly is a Dashiki?
Simply put, a dashiki is a colorful, loose-fitting tunic, shirt, or dress that is widely worn in West Africa and beyond. The name itself offers the first clue to its meaning.
The word “dashiki" comes from the Yoruba word dàńṣíkí, used to refer to the loose-fitting pullover which originated in West Africa as a functional work tunic for men, comfortable enough to wear in the heat. The Yoruba loaned the word dàn ciki from the Hausa term dan ciki, which means "underneath." The dan ciki garment was commonly worn by males under large robes.
A dashiki is a loose-fitting, pullover shirt usually sewn from colorful, African-inspired cotton prints or from solid color fabrics, often with patch pockets and embroidery at the neckline and cuffs.
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With its rich history, originally meant as a work garment, the Yoruba “danshiki” was made from hand-woven strip cloth, with deep-cut armholes and pockets. The versatility of dashiki can be seen in its diversity of designs, colors, and variety of shapes, going from pullover shirts or caftan with different sleeve sizes, shorter or longer.
The versatility can be seen also in its patterns, although commonly known as “Angelina”, where each color included has its meaning - gold as a symbol of fertility and wealth, green for life and prosperity, etc.
It has formal and informal versions and varies from simple draped clothing to fully tailored suits. A common form is a loose-fitting pullover garment, with an ornate V-shaped collar, and tailored and embroidered neck and sleeve lines. It is frequently worn with a brimless kufi cap (which is worn in Islamic communities in Africa and the African diaspora) and pants.
Where Did the Dashiki Originate?
The origin of dashiki is firmly rooted in West Africa, particularly among the Yoruba people of Nigeria. The traditional dàńṣíkí was often a functional garment.
West African participation in the international import and export textile trade began in the 11th century however it was in the 1800’s that a series of events coincided to create what would become the phenomenon of African wax print: (i) The British and Dutch colonized Indonesia. (ii) European factories developed the capability to mechanically reproduce traditional hand-printed Indonesian batik textiles with the goal of selling them in Indonesia (iii) The Indonesian market rejected the textile (iv) An economic upturn in west Africa prompted a surge in demand for printed textiles (v) The idiosyncratic irregularities of wax print ‘bubbles’ and ‘crackle’ captivated the West African market.
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By the early 1900’s British and Dutch textile manufacturers had started adapting Indonesian designs to align with African aesthetic principles, though the legacy of Indonesian themes is still present in wax print today. Further technological developments during the 20th century also led to the introduction of java and fancy print which were wax print variations of lesser quality and price.
The dashiki textile, originally named Angelina, was a java print designed in 1963 by Toon van de Manakker - an employee of the Dutch textile manufacturer Vlisco which caters to Central and West African markets. Van de Manakker drew inspiration from 19th century Ethiopian tunics when designing Angelina which was one of numerous styles the company produced each year to meet a constantly fluctuating demand for novelty.
The Dashiki Shirt and Beyond: Exploring Different Styles
When people think of dashikis, they most often picture the iconic dashiki shirt. But the style doesn’t stop there!
The informal version consists of traditional printed or embroidered dashiki, while there are three formal versions. First type includes dashiki, Sokoto (drawstring trousers), and kufi and is called dashiki suit worn by grooms for wedding ceremonies. The second version is called a robe or Senegalese kaftan and consists of an ankle-length shirt, matching kufi, and Sokoto. The third style is worn by Tribal chiefs, Nigerians, or Muslims.
Three formal versions exist. The first type consists of a dashiki, sokoto (drawstring pants), and a matching kufi. This style is called a dashiki suit or dashiki trouser set and it is the attire worn by most grooms during wedding ceremonies. The second version consists of an ankle-length shirt, matching kufi, and sokoto and is called a Senegalese kaftan. The third type consists of a dashiki and matching trousers. A flowing gown is worn over these.
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There are several different styles of dashiki suits available from clothing stores. The type of shirt included in the set determines the name. The traditional dashiki suit includes a thigh-length shirt. The short sleeve, traditional style is preferred by purists. A long dashiki suit includes a shirt that is knee-length or longer. However, if the shirt reaches the ankles, it is a Senegalese kaftan. Finally, the lace dashiki suit includes a shirt made of lace.
Grey is the traditional color for some West African weddings. Some grooms wear white dashiki suits during wedding ceremonies. Some couples wear non-traditional colors.
Dashiki Dress: What is a dashiki dress?
A 1970 dashiki dress was designed and worn by Fath Davis Ruffins, curator of the National Museum of American History since 1981. She made a matching headtie to wear with it, which was a common practice as both were worn “by many blacks in the West to show pride in their African heritage”. The Smithsonian has also has a mass manufactured version of a dashiki with kimono sleeves in its collection. As Ethnic Dress in the United States (2014) notes a “dashiki is hip length, collarless, and often made with geometric embroidery along the neck”.
The Dashiki in America: Symbolism and Popularity
Its journey to global fame took off during the Black Power and counterculture movements in the United States.
The United States was introduced with the term “dashiki” circa 1968, developed by Jason Benning, Milton Clarke, Howard Davis, and William Smith, following up the Civil Rights and Black Panther movement of the 1960s, and was worn with pride and as a racial and cultural heritage, at the same time rejecting Western cultural norms. It became the emblem of Black pride, and metaphorical significance in black activist rhetoric - “Black is beautiful”, while commonly combined with the Afro hairstyle, headgear, and African beads.
The Civil Rights and Black Panther Movements of the 1960s and early 70s gave the dashiki its political potency. African Americans adopted the article as a means of rejecting Western cultural norms. Its meaning developed in the same vein as the “Africa as Promised Land" rhetoric that fueled movements like Pan-Africanism and Rastafarianism.
The term dashiki began appearing in print at least as early as 1967. Reporting on the 1967 Newark riots in the Amsterdam News on July 22, 1967, George Barner refers to a new African garment called a "danshiki". An article by Faith Berry in The New York Times Magazine includes it on July 7, 1968. Dashiki formally appeared in the Webster's New World Dictionary, 1st College Edition of 1970/72. It cites J. Benning with the first written usage of the word in 1967. J. Benning, M. Clarke, H. Davis and W.
The dashiki was featured in the movies Uptight (1968), Putney Swope (1969), and the weekly television series Soul Train (1971). The Sanford and Son episode "Lamont Goes African" features Sanford's son Lamont wearing a dashiki as part of his attempt to return to his African roots.
Jim Brown, Wilt Chamberlain, Sammy Davis Jr., and Bill Russell were among the well-known African-American athletes and entertainers who wore the dashiki on talk shows.
Hippies also adopted dashikis into their wardrobe as a means to express counterculture values.
Fred Hampton of the Black Panther Party made note of black business owners wearing dashikis in his 1969 speech "Power Anywhere Where There's People": "[A]nybody who comes into the community to make profit off the people by exploiting them can be defined as a capitalist. And we don't care how many programs they have, how long a dashiki they have.
Its political vigor weakened at the end of the 60s as its popularity peaked when the trends turned towards more ethnic fashion, especially with the hippie and colorful trends, with young white Americans taking interest in bright colors and ornate garments.
The dashiki's political vigor weakened towards the end of the 60s when it became popular among white counterculture groups, whose adoption of the garment-based primarily on its aesthetic appeal-undermined its status as a sign of Black identity. Retailers began to import dashikis made in India, Bangladesh and Thailand in large numbers.
During this period, notable Black intellectuals began to warn their communities against the trivialization of dashikis and other symbols of Black beauty.
Former District of Columbia mayor and council member Marion Barry was known for wearing a dashiki leading up to elections. In February 2023, freshman lawmaker Justin J. Pearson was inaugurated to the Tennessee House of Representatives while wearing a dashiki, prompting an immediate backlash from conservative lawmakers.
Why Are Modern Dashiki Designs Popular With Global Designers? - Black Beauty and Fashion Trends
In Nigerian Fashion, What is a Dashiki?
As the birthplace of the garment, the Nigerian dashiki holds a special place. In modern Nigerian fashion, what is a dashiki? It’s versatility personified. It’s worn as casual everyday wear, as formal attire for weddings and ceremonies (often as part of a grander Agbada set), and as a symbol of national pride during cultural festivals.
The Meaning Behind the Print
The American term dashiki was coined from the Yoruba dàńṣíkí meaning ‘work shirt’, which was itself coopted from the Hausa dan chiki meaning an ‘inner garment’ intended to be worn beneath a much grander robe. The origin of the shirt was likely an early influence of Arabian traders who brought Islamic religion and culture to Africa.
The dashiki shirt is distinct from what is colloquially known as the dashiki textile print.
Given that connections between cloth and identity derive from tribe, I find it doubtful that West African people considered dashiki print (which belonged to no tribe at all) to be symbolic of their identity. It is far more likely that the local perception of dashiki was simply that it was pretty, and thanks to being a European import, exotic.
Which leads me to reason that the classic African American dashiki of the late 60’s was not considered representative of African culture within Africa but instead was an impression of African heritage conjured up in the American imagination.
I suspect the appeal of the dashiki textile would have extinguished quickly in Africa, like thousands of other factory printed textile designs which have since vanished from collective memory, were it not for its prestige in America.
Perhaps it was ironically the Americanness of this African American clothing style which ignited and fueled its lasting allure in Africa by bestowing it with an elevated status.
The African America dashiki might be a rare episode in fashion history where an erroneous perception of African authenticity galvanized a motif into such enduring popularity that it eventually became authenticated as bona fide African culture.
Dashiki in Modern Times
Today, dashiki is featured in popular culture all over the world, although seldom seen as streetwear, it is worn in many different occasions, for modern Kwanzaa celebrations, and particularly during Black History Month as a way to respect the West African heritage and mark the unity of African American descent and pride.
Vintage retailers rank it high as a “must have”, as well as other fashion companies, in combination with dark glasses and a variety of necklaces. Its popularity continues to rise with movies including them into their costume ideas, book mentions and celebrities wearing it all across the globe, even for press conferences and similar events.
As mentioned before, dashiki took over the popular culture and there are different ways you can wear this African inspired fashion, no matter the gender or age. Starting with toddler sizes, this flamboyant garment will be the most comfortable and colorful part of your wardrobe.
Through all the struggles, its cultural significance stays untouched, even with changes of meaning made on a larger scale in the fashion industry.
Where to Buy Authentic and Stylish Dashikis?
You’ve learned the history and the meaning, and now you’re ready to own one. You’re tired of scrolling through generic online stores and want something genuine. We get it.
From traditional shirts and dresses to custom designs with your logo, our collection is diverse and stylish.
Caring for Your Dashiki
Wash in cold water with mild detergent, avoid bleach, and air dry.
