In the beauty world, there is a long history of practices unique to each culture. The history of African Beauty, or A-Beauty, is of particular note in the beauty industry because of the cross-functionality of common ingredients and a focus on local sourcing.
Often, ingredients could be used for both skincare and haircare, with different applications. African Beauty techniques stemmed from finding ways to make do with what was locally available at the time. As a result - from minerals to plants that grow in Africa - beauty ingredients all came directly from the earth. With links between hair, skin, and make-up, here are some of the most notable gems from Africa’s beauty history.
In Nigeria, beauty is shaped by a mix of cultural traditions, media influence, and social expectations. Modern Nigerian beauty trends are increasingly inclusive, with more representation of diverse skin tones, body types, and hairstyles in media and fashion. But many Nigerians never found the winner very beautiful.
For Westerners slim is beautiful, but this is not the case for many Africans, especially those of an older generation who prefer a more robust figure. Since the Miss World, younger Africans are beginning to prize thinness more and more. This may clash with a culture whose history celebrates voluptuousness.
Touring Club Italiano (Wikimedia)
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Black Hair Secrets
Due to its unique structure and texture, Black hair can be challenging to care for and style. It also has unique properties found in no other kind of hair, and many parts of Africa have developed hair techniques that are dependent on the location and the natural resources available.
African Hair Threading
African hair threading is also known as “Irun Kiko” among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, a West African country where this practice is noted as early as the 15th century. To the Yorubas, the hair was considered as important as the head, and caring for both was believed to bring good fortune. Threading and weaving were the main ways this was carried out.
While weaving is often mentioned in relation to hair braiding styles today, threading is less discussed. This protective hairstyle involves the use of flexible wool, cotton or rubber threads to tie hair sections and wrap them in three-dimensional corkscrew patterns as depicted in the images below.
Examples of hair threading. Images found here.
The threaded hair was then twisted and manipulated into shapes and decorated with ornaments such as cowrie shells and beads, which were used to indicate social class and personal style. Beyond its spiritual and social significance, threading was also a simple way for women to stretch their hair or retain length as this style protected the hair from breakage.
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Chébé Powder
Threading techniques were only one aspect of hair care, and natural elements were used to keep hair healthy, regardless of style. Sourced from the Northern Chad mountains in Central Africa, the seeds of the Chébé plant were rumoured to be the secret to the long, lustrous hair of women of the Bassara/Baggara Arab tribe in Chad.
Map of Chad in central Africa
The brown Chébé powder was produced by drying and grinding the Chébé seeds into a fine powder which was then mixed with water to create a paste applied to the hair. Although it did not have the ability to stimulate hair growth, it was believed to aid length retention by filling hair shaft spaces and sealing the cuticle.
Alternatively, the powder could be mixed with moisturising substances such as Shea butter, and applied in sections to hair already hydrated with water. Chadian women would braid the moisturised hair to lock in all the hydration and keep their hair protected. The use of Chébé powder was passed down through generations and is now a long-standing staple in Chadian families. It has also evolved into a source of income for Chadians that produce Chébé powder ethically today.
Skin Care
With a focus on moisturising and cleansing, natural products like Shea butter and Rhassoul clay have long ensured gentle care for the melanin-rich skin of Africans.
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Shea Butter
Shea butter is a thick, yellow paste derived from the nuts of a tropical tree native to Africa, the Karite tree. Karite trees are found in the eastern and western regions, in the Sahel belt, which spans from Senegal to Sudan.
Shea butter from the Karite tree and the Sahel belt, found under the Sahara Desert.
Often used as a base for Chébé powder for hair, Shea butter was also used as a skin moisturiser. The use of this nutrient-rich butter dates back to as early as Queen Cleopatra’s reign and is familiar to many people today throughout the world. Shea butter is believed to have many skin-friendly properties including an ability to trap moisture and restore damaged skin.
Packed with vitamins A, E and F, Shea butter also offered UV protection and well-ageing perks for African women. In addition to being an effective moisturiser, it is non-pore-clogging and long-lasting. Raw Shea butter has become one of the most popular and diverse products to use worldwide.
Rhassoul Clay
Rhassoul clay or Ghassoul clay is a sedimentary rock obtained from deposits in Morocco, North Africa. The word “Rhassoul” translates into “land that washes”, and this stays true as Rhassoul clay is known for its effectiveness in cleansing, exfoliating and soothing skin. The naming was attributed to the mountains where the rocks are sourced in Morocco,“Jebel Rhassoul”, Arabic for “mountain of the washer”.
In Northern Africa, Rhassoul was used as a body care solution by mixing with little rose water to create a paste that could be applied onto the skin. The clay was rich in magnesium, an ingredient proven to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects against acne when absorbed into the skin.
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Makeup
The makeup techniques in African beauty history served both aesthetic and medicinal purposes. In particular, the history of black kohl and the red powder, Aker Fassi, stood out the most to us.
Kohl
Perhaps the most familiar of the many African beauty techniques represented here, Kohl was frequently used during the Egyptian Dynasties, up to 5000 years ago. The word “kohl” was used to refer to a fine, dark powder for lining the eyes and accentuating the lashes and brows. This powder was made of stibnite, a lead-grey, iridescent mineral with a pyramidal structure.
Stibnite. Image Wikimedia.
Kohl has been worn by men and women of all ages, including children, since the Naqada III era. It was originally used for protection against sun glare, eye diseases and what was termed the “evil eye”. With the aid of water and water-soluble gum, it became a beauty product that was used as a brow gel, mascara and eyeliner in one.
Kohl tube and hematite applicator. From Wikimedia.
Kohl recipes varied from tradition to tradition as this product was found in other regions besides Ancient Egypt. It was also referred to as a variety of names including “Tiro” by the Yoruba people of Nigeria.
Aker Fassi
Derived from a blend of sun-dried red poppy flowers and barks of pomegranate trees, Aker Fassi is a red powder that has its origins in the beauty rituals of the Berber women of Morocco, also from the Atlas Mountains. It is a fine, red powder with vitamins, iron, zinc and other minerals and antioxidants.
Aker Fassi was sold in traditional Moroccan markets as a terracotta pot onto which a paste of the red powder was painted. Water is then applied to the pot, and the red power is made into a paste that can be applied to the skin.
Aker Fassi pots as sold in local markets.
Aker Fassi’s purpose was in its ability to purify skin whilst giving an overall pink tone that gave the semblance of smooth skin. As a result of its intense red colour, it was also used to add flush to the cheeks and lips, serving as a blush and lipstick.
Colonialism and Beauty Standards
Colonial powers understood something profound about human psychology: control the mirror, control the mind. Beauty standards weren’t merely aesthetic preferences - they were sophisticated tools of cultural domination that could achieve what armies alone could not. By systematically devaluing indigenous features while promoting European ideals as universal markers of civilization, colonizers created a psychological dependency that outlasted their political control.
Across colonized territories, traditional clothing became targets of systematic suppression. In Nigeria, British authorities discouraged indigenous textiles while promoting Western dress among the educated class. The Yoruba gele, the Igbo isiagu, and countless other traditional garments were relegated to “backward” status, creating a cultural hierarchy that persists today.
The legacy of colonial beauty standards has evolved into a massive global industry that profits from insecurity. The skin lightening market alone was valued at USD 9.90 billion in 2024 and is projected to reach USD 16.42 billion by 2032, representing one of the fastest-growing segments of the global beauty industry.
These figures represent more than market dynamics - they quantify the ongoing psychological colonization of billions of people. The highest growth rates for skin lightening products occur in regions with histories of European colonization: Sub-Saharan Africa, South Asia, and Southeast Asia. This correlation isn’t coincidental; it reflects the enduring power of colonial messaging about beauty and worth.
The Resilience Revolution: Movements to Reclaim Beauty
Despite centuries of suppression, traditional beauty practices have demonstrated remarkable resilience. Across the globe, movements to reclaim indigenous aesthetics are gaining momentum, driven by younger generations who refuse to accept colonial definitions of beauty.
Nigeria’s fashion industry has experienced a renaissance of traditional textiles and designs. Designers like Deola Sagoe and Lisa Folawiyo are reinterpreting traditional Yoruba and Igbo patterns for global audiences, demonstrating how indigenous aesthetics can be both traditional and contemporary.
The key lies in agency - who controls the narrative and decision-making process. The most successful contemporary movements to reclaim traditional beauty don’t simply reproduce past practices - they innovate within traditional frameworks. This approach maintains cultural authenticity while addressing contemporary needs and contexts.
Beauty Beyond the Surface
Beauty in Nigeria is not just about appearance. When a Nigerian woman won the Miss World in 2001, she created a buzz in a nation that thought it would never win a competition based on western standards of beauty. Suddenly, Nigeria was number one and modeling agencies were looking for more 'It' girls in Africa.
To know where your beauty regimens come from is an important connection to make between yourself and your definition of beauty. The continuous growth of the world’s view of beauty can also be attributed to the secrets of African traditions that the unbeknownst Western world uses to this day.
Take these beauty “secrets” and tend to your usual routine knowing a bit more about why you do what it is you do to reach your own standards of beauty.
Photo - pexels.com
| Beauty Element | Description | Cultural Significance |
|---|---|---|
| African Hair Threading | Using threads to wrap hair for protection and style. | Spiritual, social status, hair stretching. |
| Chébé Powder | Powder from Chébé seeds mixed with water or Shea butter for hair length retention. | Traditional hair care in Chad, passed down through generations. |
| Shea Butter | Thick paste from Karite tree nuts used as a skin moisturizer. | Moisturizing, UV protection, anti-aging. |
| Rhassoul Clay | Sedimentary rock from Morocco used for cleansing and exfoliating skin. | Cleansing, exfoliating, soothing skin. |
| Kohl | Dark powder for lining eyes, made from stibnite. | Protection against sun glare, eye diseases, beauty enhancement. |
| Aker Fassi | Red powder from poppy flowers and pomegranate bark used for skin and lip color. | Skin purification, natural blush and lipstick. |
