Lamu is a historical Swahili town located on the East African Coast. The island’s colorscapes are warm, and distinctly tropical - stucco walls lined by bright flowers, as though the desert met the sea and the two made a commitment to unite. Lamu is a rich mix of Bantu, Arabic, Persian, Indian, and Southeast Asian cultures which, through the centuries have blended and molded to form a distinct marvel of an archipelago.
It is an archipelago of Islands on the Kenyan Northern Coast. It consists of the three islands of Lamu, Manda, and Pate, together with some smaller islands such as Ndau and Kiwayuu. This Archipelago’s history bears the influence of age-old cultures carried by the Indian Ocean trade winds to the east African coast for centuries. If you are looking for a beach holiday away from the masses, then Lamu Archipelago is where you can find tranquility and serenity.
When I arrive at the Manda Airport (the regional airstrip located on neighboring Manda Island) for my weekend sojourn, I am met by the desert heat and my own nostalgia. Though I relish in the opportunity to practice my Swahili - a language born from the coastal mixing of local Bantu languages, Arabic, Hindi, and a touch of Farsi - I am reassured by the fact that most people on the island also speak English fluently.
A Glimpse into Lamu's Rich History
Lamu was founded in the 12th century. A port was founded on the island of Lamu by Arab traders at least as early as the fourteenth century, when the Pwani Mosque was built. In 2001, Lamu was designated a United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization or UNESCO site. Lamu stands out for its rich cultural heritage and well-preserved Swahili architecture.
Prior to the birth of the Islamic prophet Muhammad, people of various countries and regions migrated to the island of Lamu. Traders and sailors from the Arabian Peninsula, China, India and South-East Asia traveled across the Indian Ocean to the East African Coast to reach the island of Lamu. The diverse mixture of sailors and traders with the native people of the Lamu island created distinguishable social classes and a diverse social structure on this African Island.
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After defeating Pate Island in the nineteenth century, the island became a local power, but it declined after the British forced the closure of the slave markets in 1873. In 1890 the island became part of Zanzibar and remained obscure until Kenya was granted independence from Great Britain in 1963.
Once the most important trade centre in East Africa, Lamu has exercised an important influence in the entire region in religious, cultural as well as in technological expertise. The town is characterized by narrow streets and magnificent stone buildings with impressive curved doors, influenced by unique fusion of Swahili, Arabic, Persian, Indian and European building styles. This labyrinth street pattern has its origins in Arab traditions of land distribution and urban development.
Attributed by eminent Swahili researchers as the cradle of Swahili civilization, Lamu became an important religious centre in East and Central Africa since the 19th century, attracting scholars of Islamic religion and Swahili culture.
Keen to dig deeper into this history, I make a point to visit the Lamu Musuem the next day - only to discover that the museum is closed on Sundays. As we begin to stroll through the Old Town, he tells me about the materials that are used to make local homes - roofs made of mangrove leaves, and doors carved intricately from African mahogany from Manda Island. My tour guide tells me about a local family who traced their lineage back to a marooned Chinese ship - presumably from 15th century Chinese navigator Zheng He’s merchant expeditions.
Not only did they confirm their Chinese ancestry via DNA tests, they’re still in possession of fine ceramic ware from centuries past. I was entranced by this tale, mainly because it challenged so many of my own preconceptions of this island as being uncontacted, unconnected land, when in fact, intercultural exchange is precisely what has shaped these islands into being what they are today.
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Old Town Lamu is made up of a labyrinth of narrow little alleys that are said to resemble old Delhi or Marrakech Souks. There are very few cars in here, and everyone else gets around on donkeys. Because of the small winding roads on the Island, residents are forced to walk via foot or by donkey to get to wherever they are going. The use of cars for the general public is banned.
In Lamu Old Town, the principal inhabited part of the island, is one of the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlements in East Africa. This city has had civilians living in it for over seven hundred years, while most of the other East African settlements along the coast do not have inhabitants. Due to Lamu's history in trading gold, spices, and slaves, Lamu is truly a melting pot of different cultures and Arabic, Persian, Indian, European, and Swahili traditions that are in evidently on display in Lamu's Architecture.
Lamu Old Town
Exploring the Islands: Lamu, Manda, and Pate
On the Island, the most important settlements to see are the town of Lamu and the village of Shella. On Pate Island, the largest settlements are Pate, Siyu, and Faza. As for Manda Island, at the beginning of the 19th century, it was uninhabited. Lamu is the most important islands in the archipelago. It has an excellent natural harbor and mangrove forests flank its west, north and north-east sides. On the south of the island, there is a sandy beach that rises to a height of about twenty meters at the estuary of Lamu Bay.
The Lamu Museum, housed in a grand Swahili warehouse in Lamu Town, brings the island's culture to life. Exhibits showcase traditional crafts, clothing, boat-building techniques and displays of intricately carved Swahili doors and furniture. It's an ideal starting point for understanding the unique blend of African, Arab, Indian and European influences that shape Lamu's identity.
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Manda Island, which is closest to the mainland, but less developed than Lamu offers a more exclusive feel. Manda has the ruined towns of Takwa and Manda which harbour a plethora of historical finds of cultural significance; Chinese porcelain and Islamic pottery to name a few.
Siyu Fort is located in the Lamu district, the coast province of Pate Island, about 25 km northeast of Lamu town. Apart from the impressive fort, which is open to the public and serves as a glorious reminder of the past, Siyu also hosts the remains of numerous magnificent tombs and mosques belonging to people of local importance.
The ancient town of Takwa stands today as a preserved slice of the town’s vibrant trade past. The city was important in Swahili trade in the 15th and 16th centuries before its subsequent abandonment in the 17th century. Today, the city is an integral part of Lamu and its surrounding areas due to its near-perfect preservation of the old elements of the city, including its buildings and other essential landmarks.
Shela is a village about 3.2 km (2.0 mi) south of Lamu (town). The village site is probably over five hundred years old and reached its zenith in the middle of the last century. The village is a maze of winding, sandy lanes, traditional Swahili houses, mosques and a couple of hotels. Shela is now a centre for tourism on the island, with several guest houses featured by the coast. Shela is also home to the most spectacular beaches on Lamu island, which were damaged during the tsunami caused by the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake.
Known for the building and repairing of dhows, Matondoni lies at the northwest coast of the island, 7.3 km (4.5 mi) west of Lamu (town). The locals of this village are best known for building dhows. Now smaller dhows are created for fishing for smaller fish. This is a small village on the southwestern coast of the island. With the white sand beaches, this village is a popular tourist attraction.
Shela Beach
The Swahili Culture and Social Structure
The island of Lamu is a Swahili settlement filled with culture. The Swahili language is known as Kiswahili, and has various dialects throughout the island. The Swahili culture is not a single culture or a way of life, it is yet a mixture of traces from European, African, Arab and Asian traditions and cultures.
There are several different social classes that the people living on the island of Lamu are considered to be part of. The different social classes are separated into the following: indigenous people (Wenyeji), foreigners (Wageni), Arabs (Waarabu) and the Africans (Waafrika). These different groups of people all identitfy themselves differently based on their social status, but another interesting factor that makes these groups unique that is that each social status has a different dialect.
Most evident tradition in Lamu however is the Swahili. In falling characteristically with the Swahili culture, most of the town is built with coral stone and mangrove timber. The town is characterized by the simplicity of structural forms enriched by such features as inner courtyards, verandas, and elaborately carved wooden doors.
One of my first outings is a sunset dhow ride. Dhows - large wooden sailing vessels traditional to the Arabian region - decorate the island’s shores, and are one of the most telling artifacts of the diasporic mixing on the island.
One of the most unique ways to experience the island is on a dhow sailing trip. Anchored in the Lamu Archipelago, the Tusitiri Dhow offers a unique private sailing safari aboard a meticulously restored 50-year-old trading vessel. Guests can enjoy multiday adventures or shorter excursions, with activities ranging from deep-sea fishing, water skiing and wakeboarding to snorkeling pristine reefs, kayaking through mangroves or simply relaxing on secluded beaches.
Lamu Sailing Trip (overnight dhow)
Traditional Dhows in Lamu
Lamu as a Tourist Destination
Centuries ago the island of Lamu was highly dependent on the function of slavery in its economy, since abolishment of slavery the island has looked for other ways to bring wealth back into its economy. With the diverse cultural and colorful design of Lamu, it is a place of interest for tourists drawn to the East African Coast.
Lamu offers a range of attractions and activities catering to various interests. These include historical sites, beaches, marine life, various cultural experiences, and water sports. Visitors can also attend the Lamu Cultural Festival to witness traditional dances, dhow races, and Swahili poetry.
Lamu has also strategically positioned itself as "The Island of Festivals," with events designed to attract visitors and showcase the island's rich cultural heritage. The Lamu Cultural Festival, held each November, is a vibrant celebration featuring traditional Swahili dances, taarab music performances and poetry recitations. There are also exhibitions showcasing woodcarvings, textiles and jewelry crafted by local artisans. A major highlight is the dhow race, a competition among traditional sailing boats that celebrates Lamu's maritime heritage. The festival also offers a chance to sample Swahili cuisine, including fresh seafood dishes and local delicacies like biryani and pilau.
Beyond the festival, visitors can find unique culinary experiences like the Floating Bar and Restaurant, a popular spot for both locals and tourists.
For travelers who prefer to sleep on land, Lamu Island offers a variety of accommodation options, from historical Swahili townhouses like Lamu House Hotel and Kijani Hotel to luxury retreats like the Banana House & Wellness Centre, which offers yoga classes, spa treatments, and water-based activities.
Lamu's commitment to preserving its unique Swahili cultural heritage offers travelers a great opportunity to experience a way of life that has all but disappeared elsewhere.
The village of Shela is located here. The village site is probably over five hundred years old and reached its zenith in the middle of the last century. The village is a maze of winding, sandy lanes, traditional Swahili houses, mosques and a couple of hotels.
While staying in the village of Kipungani, tourists are given the options to engage in activities such as snorkeling, deep sea game fishing, and wandering the village for sight-seeing.
With its narrow streets, beautiful carved doorways and absence of motorized vehicles (donkey carts are the transport of choice), this laid-back island embraces a pole pole (take it slowly) way of life. In fact, Lamu Old Town is so well-preserved it was named a Unesco World Heritage site, a living museum of Swahili culture and architecture.
Lamu is an important center for trade because it is the most important trade center in East Africa. People migrated from various lands and from various cultures to conduct trade at the port of Lamu, the abundance of a diversity of people trading at the island of Lamu impacted the future culture of this island. Not only did the traders help the economy of Lamu grow, but it also gave the local people the opportunity to adopt different customs as their own. Because of this, Lamu is also an important cultural, technological, and religious center in Eastern Africa.
Practical Information for Visitors
Lamu is mainly accessible by air and sea:
- By Air: Fly into Lamu's Manda Airport from Nairobi's Wilson Airport or Malindi. Scheduled flights are available, with the duration being approximately one hour.
- By Sea: Ferries and private boats operate between Lamu and Mokowe on the mainland, providing an alternative scenic route.
Lamu offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets and preferences. Resorts such as The Majlis Resort on Manda Island offer luxury villas and suites with stunning views of the Indian Ocean, and boutique hotels such as Peponi Hotel in Shela village, known for its personalized service and beachfront location, offer excellent housing options to visitors. Visitors can also hire budget-friendly guesthouses and vacation rentals in Lamu Town and Shela that offer basic amenities and a chance to experience local hospitality.
Lamu is generally safe for tourists, with a welcoming and hospitable local community. However, taking the usual precautions is advisable to ensure a safe and enjoyable visit. Dress modestly, especially in religious and rural areas. Use mosquito repellent and take precautions against malaria, which is prevalent in coastal regions. Stay updated on local news and travel advisories, especially regarding any political or security concerns.
The weather in this region is generally warm ranging from about 23 and 33 °C. Experiencing the warmest weather from December to April and the coldest weather from May to July. Due to its proximity to the equator, Lamu has a warm tropical climate. The sea breeze makes the temperature more bearable. It rarely falls below 26 °C. Kazkazi winds occur from November to April is generally the dry season with warm northeasterly winds, calmer seas and clear water visibility. Normally the weather consists of hot days and warm nights; humid but with a breeze.
| Month | Average Temperature (°C) | Season |
|---|---|---|
| December - April | 23 - 33 | Warmest |
| May - July | 23 - 30 | Coldest |
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