If you’re looking for the heart of Ghana’s trading culture and a true sensory adventure, Kejetia Market in Kumasi, the capital of the Ashanti Region, is an unmissable destination. As the largest indoor market in West Africa, it is a nonstop hub of trade, culture, and everyday life. Thousands of vendors and shoppers fill its alleys daily, creating an experience full of energy, color, and sound. Kejetia Market has it all.
Drone shot of the Kumasi Central Market from above.
Location and Scope
Located in the heart of Kumasi, Kejetia Market sits at the center of the city’s commercial district, near areas like Adum, Bantama, and Asokwa. Kejetia Market covers over 12 hectares, about the size of 20 football fields. With thousands of vendors operating daily, it is easy to get lost in the rows of shops and stalls.
A Brief History
The Kejetia Market traces its origins to the early 20th century, growing organically as traders from nearby towns and villages converged in Kumasi - the commercial hub of the Ashanti Kingdom. The market, along with the Makola Market in Accra, was established in 1924, modeled after British markets in order to house large numbers of vendors. This led to an increase of market and street trading in the city. During this time, a lorry park was constructed to help with the large number of people who go to the market.
Kejetia Market has long been a major trading center in Kumasi. In its earlier years, it operated as an open-air market, where vendors set up temporary stalls to sell their goods.
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A bustling scene inside Kejetia Market.
Redevelopment and Modernization
Due to the lack of investment in the market, infrastructure and hygiene conditions were poor. Because of this, the colonial government tried to promote large-scaled industrialization to stop the even-increasing number of vendors. To improve safety and organization, the government launched a redevelopment project, transforming Kejetia into the modern indoor market seen today.
The redevelopment of Kejetia Market was a major project supported by both local and international organizations. The Government of Ghana led the efforts, with financing from Deutsche Bank and support from UK Export Finance (UKEF). The first phase of the project begun in 2015 and was valued at a cost of US$259,425,000 by the John Dramani Mahama government. The phase included a brand new market equipped with about 8,420 stores. The second phase was undertaken by the Nana Akufo-Addo government the Asantehene on 2 May 2019 for work to commence.
As part of the redevelopment, Kejetia Market’s ceiling design was created to reflect Ghanaian heritage. For those who visit the market daily, the ceiling has become a familiar sight - something they walk under without a second thought. However, for first-time visitors, it often stands out as an architectural masterpiece, showcasing the thought and cultural significance woven into its design.
Layout and What to Expect
The top floor is filled with vendors selling everything from clothing and textiles to household items. While most areas are bright and full of activity, some sections feel quieter, especially those with fewer traders. Vendors and workers move throughout the day, handling goods, assisting customers, and managing sales. Some take breaks in less busy spots after long hours of selling.
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The second floor is just as fast-paced as the top level, with constant movement, haggling, and vending. Vendors here sell a wide range of products, from clothing and beauty items to electronics and accessories. The energy is high, and it is fascinating to watch traders negotiate deals.
The ground floor is home to many shops and the well-known “station side”, where trotro (shared minibus taxis) and regular taxis transport traders and shoppers in and out of the market. This level also features the main food area, where you can find fresh produce, street food, and small restaurants offering local dishes.
Challenges and Improvements
The challenges and the plan Kumasi’s old Central Market, one of the largest in West Africa, faced growing congestion, with conflicts between trading spaces and traffic areas. Redevelopment efforts, begun in 2014 and set to complete by 2024, were aimed at addressing these challenges.
The redevelopment plan required a phased approach to accommodate traders during construction. Traders were initially moved to other sites, including the new Racecourse Market located about two kilometres north of the original market. The adjacent Kejetia transport terminal was then transformed into a three-story market building (Kejetia/Central Market Phase 1). Once this was complete, traders relocated there, allowing redevelopment of the original Central Market into a second market building (Phase 2).
To further relieve congestion, additional satellite markets were developed across the city. The Kejetia/Central Market project, due to its scale, required substantial funding, initially supported by the Brazilian government and later by other international sources. The Ghana Urban Management Pilot Project (GUMPP), supported by the French government, also contributed to developing several satellite markets.
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The Kejetia/Central Market (Phase 1) is now operational and lively, while Phase 2, involving further construction on the Central Market site, remains partially complete due to restrictions on international borrowing. Racecourse Market has expanded rapidly as an alternative trading site, but it faces challenges from underdeveloped infrastructure. Some of the satellite markets have shown innovation in their development, contributing valuable insights to the project. However, persistent issues such as drainage, traffic congestion, and the slow pace of construction have complicated the resettlement of traders, leading to unexpected delays and logistical challenges.
Key Lessons Learned
Key lessons from this case highlight the importance of inclusive and holistic approaches to participatory planning, design, relocation management, and financial structuring.
For the physical aspects of planning, design, and infrastructure, a holistic approach ensures that both construction quality and supportive infrastructure, like transportation and maintenance, meet long-term needs. Kumasi’s experience shows that participatory planning-when done effectively-enhances outcomes, but where it falls short, challenges arise. Ensuring alternative trading spaces are available at the right time and location is essential to minimizing disruptions for traders, particularly those who are most vulnerable.
In governance, genuine participation by all stakeholders, especially women, who represent the majority of Ghana’s market traders, is crucial. Inclusive planning that considers informal traders can alleviate congestion while reducing hardship. Effective collaboration between local government departments and the private sector can enhance project success.
For financial management, the case illustrates that balancing costs-particularly loan repayments-with affordability and long-term operation and maintenance is key to achieving redevelopment goals.
Fire Outbreaks
Fire outbreaks have historically been an issue of the Kejetia market. Looking rather like a shanty town when viewed from above, the market had suffered from regular outbreaks of fire. These resulted in the destruction of stalls and loss of livelihood, not to mention strain on the emergency services, given the thousands of daily visitors. Other difficulties included food hygiene maintenance, deliveries and crime prevention, as well as demand for space.
Financial Support and Collaborations
In February 2015, the Parliament of Ghana approved a US$270m financing for the redevelopment of Kumasi Central Market and the Kejetia lorry terminal in Kumasi. Construction of the market infrastructure was the first phase of work, which began in July 2015 and involved relocating the vehicles to a new location. This included a US$135m nine-year covered facility from SAIN, the Brazilian ECA, to finance goods and services exported from Brazil and a US$37m eight-year commercial loan.
Following the success of the 2014 financing, in 2016 Deutsche Bank arranged a five-year US$97m commercial loan for the financing of Tranche Two of Phase One of the Kumasi Market redevelopment project. At the end of 2018, the funding for Tranche One of Phase Two of the project was signed between the Ministry of Finance of Ghana (the borrower) and Deutsche Bank, for €92m.
UKEF was also supporting the redevelopment of the airport - thus helping air cargo trade - and a new neonatal hospital. “When we both support British exports and support development in a country, it’s a great combination and something we would love to do more of,” said Taylor.
Apart from the market itself, the project comprised a reorganisation and upgrade of the surrounding roads and drainage; a sewer treatment station to treat 100% of the sewage generated by the facility; a large crêche for the children of women working in the shops; a clinic to attend to the needs of users; a police station; a fire station; a post office; proper infrastructure for the restaurants, with gas supply facilities and supplied industrial stoves for each one; and proper infrastructure for the fish and meat shop owners, with ice-making machines, freezers and refrigerated displays. Being sure of the financial support makes projects like these possible.
As King Otumfuo celebrates the 20th anniversary of his ascension of the Golden Stool in April 2019, it appears that his determination to ensure the transformation of Kumasi into a world-class city is well under way.
What to Buy
Kejetia Market is one of the most diverse shopping areas in West Africa.
- Traditional Craft & Kente Weaving Stalls Shop for Ashanti kente cloths, batik prints, and handwoven baskets.
- Handmade Crafts and Souvenirs - Unique gifts and keepsakes that highlight Ghanaian culture.
Shop for Ashanti kente cloths, batik prints, and handwoven baskets.
Visiting Kejetia Market
Kejetia Market is a must-visit destination in Kumasi and one of the most important trading hubs in West Africa. If you plan to visit Ghana, add Kejetia Market to your itinerary.
Important Tip: Keep valuables secure and avoid bulky bags - the market is crowded.
Have you been to Kejetia Market before? Share your experience in the comments!
Experience Kumasi | Exploring Kejetia Street Market in Ghana | West Africa
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