Herbal Essences Argan Oil of Morocco Conditioner: An In-Depth Ingredient Review

Herbal Essences has introduced a new line crafted with bio:renew, designed to purify and protect hair against damage. Among the variants available, the Argan Oil of Morocco line aims to repair damaged hair, making it a popular choice for those seeking to revitalize their locks.

Let's delve into the ingredients that make up this conditioner and understand their roles.

Key Ingredients and Their Functions

Water (Aqua)

Water is the most common cosmetic ingredient. It usually tops the ingredient lists, forming the largest part of the product. You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. So why is it so popular?

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid. It's a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent alcohols.

Read also: Repairing Hair with Argan Oil

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Behentrimonium Methosulfate is an ammonium salt.

Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone

Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone is a type of silicone.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol. The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Oleic Acid

Oleic Acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid found in plant oils like avocado and marula oils. It enhances product texture and acts as a cleansing agent.

Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil)

You may know this ingredient as argan oil. Argan Oil has antioxidant, hydrating, and soothing properties. Argan Trees are native to Morocco.

Read also: Ultimate Herbal Oil Review: Benefits, Uses, and More

Studies have shown argan oil can help fight again radical damage from the sun. This makes it effective at preventing hyperpigmentation. Large amounts of vitamin E found in argan oil helps the skin retain water. Argan oil also contains fatty acids such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. It is also a good source of lipids. Another benefit of argan oil is skin-soothing. It can help reduce inflammation-related skin symptoms. Argan Oil is effective at regulating sebum production in pores. This can make it effective at treating hormonal acne. Traditionally, argan oil was used for its antibacterial and antifungal properties. However, argan oil contains fatty acids that may make it not fungal-acne safe.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice comes from leaves of the aloe plant. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is best known for helping to soothe sunburns.

It is also anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antiseptic, and can help heal wounds. Aloe is packed with good stuff including Vitamins A, C, and E. These vitamins are antioxidants, which help fight free-radicals and the damage they may cause. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice also contains sugars. These sugars come in the form of monosaccharides and polysaccharides, folic acid, and choline.

Histidine

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier. One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin: Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis. Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid?

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Citric Acid

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes. Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath. However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH. In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants. Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Parfum (Fragrance)

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products. Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations. The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards. One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol. Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent. The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient.

The Argan Oil of Morocco conditioner has a mild scent, reminiscent of Christmas with a sweet-woodsy aroma. It’s an exotic blend of creamy vanilla followed by a burst of fizzy citrus and a lingering blend of exotic spices. The citrus notes provide a lift, preventing the scent from being too heavy or overpowering. The scent lingers but doesn’t overwhelm.

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Alcohol is most commonly used as a preservative. It also has a subtle, sweet smell. Small amounts of Benzyl Alcohol is not irritating and safe to use in skincare products. Most Benzyl Alcohol is derived from fruits such as apricots. Benzyl Alcohol has both antibacterial and antioxidant properties. These properties help lengthen the shelf life of products. Benzyl Alcohol is a solvent and helps dissolve other ingredients. It can also improve the texture and spreadability.

Alcohol Denat.

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives. This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying - mostly due to its astringent property.

Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue, constricting pores and leaving your skin dried out. However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad. Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin. This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged. Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.The rule of thumb is if this alcohol is near the end of an ingredients list, it will probably not affect your skin much. Also... This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties. The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase. It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps. We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Propylene Glycol

Propylene Glycol is an odorless, colorless liquid. As a humectant, it helps skin retain moisture. It also aids in delivering active ingredients.

Another role of this ingredient is preventing a product from melting or freezing. Propylene glycol also adds antimicrobrial properties to a product, elongating product lifespan. This ingredient is considered an organic alcohol and commonly added into both cosmetics and foods. Those with sensitive skin or conditions may develop a rash when using this ingredient.

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine. Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns. Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

Hexyl Cinnamal

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil. This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin.

Other Alcohols

Alcohol comes in many different forms. Different types of alcohol will have different effects on skin. This ingredient is an astringent alcohol. Using high concentrations of these alcohols are drying on the skin. They may strip away your skin's natural oils and even damage your skin barrier. Astringent alcohols may also irritate skin.

Other types of astringent alcohols include: According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients. Any type of sanitizing product will have high amounts of alcohol to help kill bacteria and viruses. Isopropyl Alcohol is more commonly known as rubbing alcohol. It is most commonly used as a solvent, meaning it helps other ingredients dissolve. This ingredient is an astringent alcohol.

Summary of Ingredients

Here is a summary of the key ingredients discussed:

IngredientFunction
WaterBase solvent
Stearyl AlcoholEmulsifier, emollient
Argan OilAntioxidant, hydrating, soothing
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceSoothing, anti-inflammatory
Citric AcidpH adjuster, exfoliant (in high concentrations)
Benzyl AlcoholPreservative, solvent
Sodium BenzoatePreservative
Propylene GlycolHumectant, antimicrobial

Overall, the Herbal Essences Argan Oil of Morocco Conditioner contains a blend of moisturizing, soothing, and preservative ingredients designed to improve hair health and appearance. While some ingredients like fragrance and certain alcohols may cause sensitivity in some individuals, the formulation aims to balance these with beneficial components like argan oil and aloe vera.

The shampoo left hair feeling fresh and clean without dryness. The conditioner does its job without weighing hair down, leaving it feeling silky and looking less frizzy. It’s ideal for frequent hair washing, leaving hair silky and clean.

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