Fes, often called the "cultural capital" of Morocco, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world with historical roots spanning over a millennium. Today, Fes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world. If you’re exploring Fes, visiting the souks is a must to experience the city’s vibrant heritage.
In Morocco, a “souk” is essentially a market, not just a colorful display of products for tourists, as some visitors might believe. But it is also much more than a market-it’s a place where tradition and daily life intertwine. While we normally go to souks for shopping, they serve as essential community hubs at the same time. Locals gather to buy everyday goods, meet friends, and catch up on news. Every souk in Fes has a unique character and purpose, often named by the products sold within.
Wandering through its labyrinthine ancient medina with its historic and architectural marvels hidden at every corner is an experience unlike any other. Fes, or Fez, up to you, is pure sensory overload. Pungent smells and raucous sounds overwhelm you, as colorful ceramics and glistening leather goods duel for your eyes’ attention. For travelers who love to get lost in the mayhem, Fes is a premier destination. It is teeming with culture, history, and life. As a backpacker, Fes truly can’t be missed. It is cultural immersion at its best, as well as a great destination for backpackers looking for a unique experience while sticking to a tight budget.
Most of the sights and attractions in Fes are in the medina, or old town, which is mostly only accessible on foot. The winding alleys and tiny corridors bunched throughout the medina are easy to walk through.
Navigating the Souks of Fes
Fes’s medina is a maze of narrow alleys, and navigating it can be overwhelming. Hiring a local guide not only helps you find your way but also provides insight into the history and significance of each souk.
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The medina is well-marked with color-coded signposts indicating directions to palaces, gardens, monuments, and souks. Exploring on your own allows you to discover hidden gems and immerse yourself in the local culture at your own pace.
Must-Visit Souks in Fes
Boujloud Souk
Start your souk experience at Boujloud Souk, located near the famous Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate), one of Fes’s main entrances. Here, you’ll find an incredible range of fresh produce, meats, spices, and traditional Moroccan foods. Stroll through the colorful stalls, where locals shop for everyday ingredients and vendors offer fragrant herbs and vibrant vegetables.
Souk Al-Attarine
Just a short walk from Boujloud, you’ll find Souk Al-Attarine, known for its spices, nuts, dried fruits, and plants. This souk fills the air with the scent of Moroccan spices, creating an inviting atmosphere for food lovers. Vendors sell everything from almonds and dates to rare spices and herbal teas. In addition to these, you’ll also find a range of oils and traditional remedies valued for their health benefits.
Souk Jeld (Leather Tannery)
For a truly unique experience, visit Souk Jeld, home to Fes’s famous leather tannery. The Chouara Tannery, located here, is one of the oldest and most renowned tanneries in Morocco. Here, leather is dyed using traditional methods, creating vibrant shades of red, blue, yellow, and green. The process may be aromatic, but witnessing this centuries-old craft is unforgettable.
The dyeing vats at Chouara-as well as at the city’s other tanneries-are among the Fes medina’s most iconic sights. The ancient craft of tanning and dyeing, in all its visceral authenticity (cow urine and pigeon poop are still key components in the process), plays out much as it always has. Chouara has been around since the 11th century. The dyes used in the tannery pits are natural: Blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow, from saffron, pomegranate, or even a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers. The best vantage point for observation is from one of the roof terraces.
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Leather shops hawking everything from butter-soft leather babouches (iconic Moroccan backless slippers) and poufs, to copies of designer jackets and handbags. (That Hermès Birkin bag, or a facsimile of it, could finally be yours at a fraction of the price.) Although the guides around here are a tenacious lot, don your best smile, carry a posy of mint to hold beneath your nostrils, and settle in for a long chat with the shopkeepers to learn about fascinating process. Expect prices in the shops to vary wildly-much depends on your haggling prowess. A favorite store is the aptly named La Belle Vue de la Tannerie, off the main drag. The shop has sought out skilled tailors with European know-how to create items of better quality using all Moroccan hides, which results in better leather goods.
If you’ve seen photos of Fes, you’ve likely seen the iconic circular pools filled with dyes of every color. It looks cool but smells terrible. The Chouara Tannery is the oldest leather tannery in the world, and a visit here is a must. Here, you can see every step of turning animal hides into the famed leather goods from Fes. A visit is usually free, but you will be expected to tip the guide at the end.
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Souk Sebbaghine (Dyers’ District)
If you love color, head to Souk Sebbaghine, also known as the Dyers’ District. This souk is dedicated to fabric dyes, and you’ll see vibrant skeins of wool hanging above the narrow alleys. The colors here range from deep indigos and reds to striking yellows, each crafted using traditional dyes. Local artisans specialize in dyeing textiles for clothing, rugs, and decor.
Seffarine Square (Brass and Copper Square)
Seffarine Square, or the Brass and Copper Square, is a must-see for anyone interested in Moroccan metalwork. Artisans here handcraft beautiful copper and brass items, from intricate lamps to tea sets and platters. One of the most skilled artisans, Hamid, can often be found working in his shop, using traditional tools to shape metal into exquisite designs.
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The plaza of Place Seffarine, dominated by the entrance to the al-Qarawiyin Library and a sturdy old tree, is one of the most pleasing areas in Fes. As you approach, you’ll hear the sound of the copper beaters tap, tap, tapping away. It’s well worth perusing the stalls to find high-quality cookware to take home, such as pixie pans for boiling milk for your coffee, copper tagines and teapots, and prettily etched bowls for use in the hammam.
Souk Nejjarine (Woodwork Souk)
Souk Nejjarine, located near the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, is the place to explore Morocco’s woodwork tradition. This souk is known for its fine woodwork, especially cedar, which is used to create furniture, musical instruments, and decorative items. Artisans here often use techniques passed down for generations, crafting everything from intricately carved doors to ornate cabinets.
Kissariat al-Kifah (Shoe Market)
For a more refined shopping experience, visit Kissariat al-Kifah, also known as the Shoe Market. This souk feels like a high-end gallery dedicated to Moroccan slippers (babouches), caftans, and fine jewelry.
Bougueddach (Weaving Square)
Bougueddach, known as the Weaving Square, is an area dedicated to Morocco’s rich textile heritage. Here, artisans work on large, hand-operated looms, creating everything from simple woven rugs to complex, colorful designs that tell stories of Moroccan culture. Watching the weavers in action is a mesmerizing experience, as they skillfully work with wool, cotton, and silk, each material adding its unique texture and vibrance to the final product.
Other Notable Shopping Areas
Several stores along Talaa Kbira stock good-quality tableware, including the Fondouk Tazi, which also offers some lovely modern designs. Continue into the bowl of the medina to the Henna Souk to find traditional patterns such as the tomato flower, various Berber motifs, and embroidery-inspired designs. Serious buyers hop in a taxi up to Ain Nokbi, the industrial quarter, to see the potters at work.
Hit the Fondouk Kaat Smen, otherwise known as the honey souk, to taste your way through as many as 17 different wild honeys for sale. Varieties range from familiar orange blossom and lavender to more unusual treats like caper and carob. If jujube is available, note that it’s favored for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, is considered to be particularly good for the liver and is locally consumed more as a medicine than something to spread on toast. People travel from afar to take this honey home, so the proprietor, Mr. Hicham, is used to packing it for air travel.
The most traditional of Fes’s two main shopping streets is a cornucopia of carpet vendors, leather babouche makers, Berber jewelry sellers, fondouks spilling over with handmade pottery, and much more besides. The trick here is to sort the wheat from the chaff and get some proper bargains. Among the myriad carpet shops, a favorite is Kilim Berber where the charming Youssef sells an affordable collection of top-quality Beni Ouarain, Azilal, and Boucherouite rugs. Take a gander at the wares of the Fondouk Tazi, which has an excellent range of traditional Fes pottery as well as groovier striped collections.
Tips for Shopping in the Souks
Exploring the souks of Fes is an immersive experience, offering a taste of Moroccan culture and craftsmanship. A little preparation can make it a lot more enjoyable and stress-free.
- Hire a Guide: Fes’s medina is a maze of narrow alleys, and navigating it can be overwhelming. Hiring a local guide not only helps you find your way but also provides insight into the history and significance of each souk.
- Bargain Respectfully: Bargaining is a common practice in Moroccan souks, and vendors expect it. Start by offering about half of the initial price, then gradually negotiate to find a fair deal. Keep it friendly and polite-haggling is part of the cultural experience.
- Research and Authenticity: Some vendors may inflate prices significantly for tourists or sell mass-produced items as “handmade.” If you’re looking for authentic goods, it helps to do a little research beforehand or ask your guide for recommendations on reputable artisans.
- Be Wary of Unsolicited Assistance: Occasionally, you might encounter people offering unsolicited assistance to guide you or help with purchases. They often expect a tip or commission and may lead you to specific shops with inflated prices.
- Wear Comfortable Shoes: Fes’s medina can be crowded, and you’ll be walking a lot on uneven ground, so wear comfortable shoes.
- Secure Your Belongings: Like any busy market, the souks can be crowded. Keep your belongings secure and close to you, especially in busy areas, to avoid pickpockets.
- Take a Moment to Observe: The souks are bustling with activity, sounds, and colors, and it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement. Take a moment to pause, watch artisans at work, or listen to the calls of vendors.
- Carry Cash: Most vendors prefer cash, and most will not accept credit cards, so it’s a good idea to bring enough Moroccan dirhams.
Bargaining in the Fez Souks
Bargaining is an integral part of the shopping experience in the Fez souks. It’s important to remember that it’s not a confrontation, but rather a friendly negotiation. Start by offering about half the asking price and be prepared to meet somewhere in the middle. Keep in mind that the initial price is often inflated to allow for bargaining.
Souvenirs to Look For
The Fez souks are a treasure trove of unique souvenirs, from traditional Moroccan lanterns and handwoven rugs to intricate leather goods and aromatic spices.
Here are some of the unique items you can find in the Fes markets:
- Traditional Moroccan lanterns
- Handwoven rugs
- Intricate leather goods
- Aromatic spices
Avoiding Tourist Traps
While the Fez souks offer an authentic shopping experience, it’s important to be aware of tourist traps.
Staying Oriented
The Fez souks can be a maze-like labyrinth, so it’s helpful to have a map or guide to navigate the alleyways. Keep an eye out for landmarks like the Kairaouine Mosque or the Bab Boujloud gate to orient yourself.
Packing for Your Souk Adventure
When shopping in the Fez souks, it’s important to pack light and leave room in your luggage for your purchases.
Sampling Local Flavors
To immerse yourself in the life of a Moroccan housewife, take a stroll through the fresh-produce market of R’cif, which winds through the lower part of the Fes medina. In addition to browsing stalls of plump fruit and vegetables from farms in the Middle Atlas, you can snack here, too: hot trid-a gossamer-thin pastry baked over a rounded clay pot or “egg”-and irresistible meloui (multiple layers of dough that become soft and flaky as they are cooked) stuffed with spiced onions. Don’t miss seeing the infamously grumpy camel butcher whose signage is a real camel’s head hanging from a hook.
Around lunchtime, mastermind your way deep into the souks to find the Achabine area, where the city’s best street food vendors ply their trade. The dishes served up here built this city and continue to do so every lunchtime: comforting bessara (split-pea or broad-bean soup) and harira (a Moroccan staple of chickpeas, lentils, and lamb broth); sardines doused in charmoula and deep-fried until crunchy; hard-boiled eggs dipped in cumin.
Pottery in Fes
Fes is well-known for producing the best pottery in Morocco. The local gray clay is much more hard-wearing than many clays used further south; items made from this material are often fired at volcanic temperatures, and usually capable of withstanding a microwave or dishwasher. The pots are still painted by hand here. If you’re keen to stock up on treasures for your kitchen or dining room table, you have several options.
Here's a summary of some of the key markets and what they offer:
| Souk Name | Specialties |
|---|---|
| Boujloud Souk | Fresh produce, meats, spices, traditional Moroccan foods |
| Souk Al-Attarine | Spices, nuts, dried fruits, plants, oils, herbal teas |
| Souk Jeld (Chouara Tannery) | Leather goods, traditional leather dyeing |
| Souk Sebbaghine | Fabric dyes, vibrant skeins of wool |
| Seffarine Square | Copper and brass items, metalwork |
| Souk Nejjarine | Fine woodwork, cedar furniture |
| Kissariat al-Kifah | Moroccan slippers (babouches), caftans, fine jewelry |
| Bougueddach | Handwoven rugs, textiles |
Planning Your Visit
Most travelers recommend spending at least 2-3 days in Fez to fully experience the city’s rich history, culture, and cuisine. This allows time to explore the medina, visit key sights like the Kairaouine Mosque and Bou Inania Medersa, and take day trips to nearby attractions. With 2 days in Fez, you can hit the highlights while still having time to wander and get lost in the medina’s maze of souks. Spend the afternoon getting lost in the souks, stopping for mint tea and people-watching. On day 2, take a day trip to the nearby ancient ruins of Volubilis or the holy town of Moulay Idriss.
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