Clothing in Ethiopia encompasses both traditional garments and modern fashion styles, alongside accessories and cosmetics. Ethiopia boasts a rich history in textile production, thanks to its cultivation of cotton.
As one of the oldest countries in the world, Ethiopia has a rich and unique history that is reflected in its traditional clothing. Bright, patterned fabrics are used to create beautiful clothing that is both practical and stylish.
Traditional Garments and Their Significance
Textile outputs include handcrafted translucent shemma cloth made of Amhara embroideries. Traditional Ethiopian clothing is designed to be comfortable and easy to wear in the hot climate. Loose-fitting shirts and dresses are common, as are wraps and scarves. Bright colors are popular, as they help to reflect the heat of the sun. Ethiopian dress is also very practical, as it is easy to wash and care for. Many items are made from natural fibers such as cotton and linen, which are durable and breathable.
Common garments include the chuba (a long, loose-fitting dress), the netela (a shawl), and the jodhpur-style pants known as habesha kemis.
Habesha Kemis
Habesha kemis is made of woven material worn by women. It is usually designed in white color outfit and widely used by the general population, becoming the most accepted dress in Ethiopian culture. Notwithstanding its wider acceptance, there are also different variations in its pattern.
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The habesha kemis is the traditional clothing of women in Ethiopia. To classify Ethiopia's national costume into one easily identifiable variety is a daunting task. Each tribe or ethnic group that resides within Ethiopia's borders has its own styles and varieties.
Even with all this variety, the difference in the clothing design or color is not what sets them apart for identification. The embroidery patterns vary on a massive scale from tribe to tribe, from ethnic group to ethnic group.
"Habesha kemis" which is in Amharic, the official Ethiopian language, refers to the national traditional outfit of Ethiopian women.
To illustrate how the "habesha kemis" could vary by ethnicity and tribe, let us look at the Shewa and Gondar versions. For Shewa women, the white linen has embroidery on the cuffs, in the middle, on the bottom, or on all three. The Gondar type on the other hand has a thick rim of embroidery on the bottom hem, but only on the back.
Variations in Traditional Wraps
It is a very thin and delicate scarf made from cotton and is rather large: about 160 x 260 cm or 63 x 102 inches. The "netela" is also used as a way to communicate what the wearer is feeling or doing. Normally, the "netela" covers the back and shoulders, with the embroidered end folded over the right shoulder. For mourning occasions, the "netela's" embroidered end is wrapped around the face. When it comes to religious occasions or activities, the "netela" is wrapped over the back and shoulders and the embroidered end is folded over the right shoulder.
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Although, it is most often used, one should remember the "netela" is not the only form of wrap around for the Ethiopian female. There are the "fota", the "docho" and the "gabi". The "fota" a sort of towel looking piece is brighter and usually checkered. The "docho" is only worn by married women and is very long. The size of the "docho" is usually about 8 meters or 26 feet long. The "gabi" is not really a scarf in the normal sense, but more like a light blanket. It is thicker and warmer than the "netela" and usually worn by men but women can use it at home to keep warm.
Ethiopian women often wear netela with borders of coloured embroidered designs. This is paired with the white "netela" or scarf wrap around of the same fabric and design color.
Men's Traditional Attire
Similar to the female Habesha kemis outfit, men's garments consist of well-designed woven patterns. Although the colors vary, the outfit is mostly white and usually cozy. Bernos is adapted and worn by Ethiopian and Eritrean highlanders. The Bernos is also worn by highlander élites and often seen more importantly in social status.
When donning their national costume Ethiopian men wear white knee length shirts, white trousers, a sweater, knee high socks and the wrap around "gabi", which we elaborated on earlier. This outfit is traditionally all white yet in some cases there is some nice embroidery work done on the front of the shirts and on the collars. The gabi can also have some embroidery on the ends but this is rare for the men folk.
The gabi (Amharic: ጋቢ) is a thicker garment, with four layers of fabric.
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When relaxing, the embroidered end is wrapped across the left shoulder.
Key Traditional Ethiopian Garments:
| Garment | Description | Worn By |
|---|---|---|
| Habesha Kemis | Woven dress, typically white with embroidery | Women |
| Netela | Thin cotton scarf | Women |
| Fota | Brighter, checkered towel-like wrap | Women |
| Docho | Long wrap (8 meters), worn only by married women | Married Women |
| Gabi | Thick blanket-like wrap | Men (primarily), Women (at home) |
| Bernos | Adapted garment worn by highlanders | Ethiopian and Eritrean highlanders |
The Evolution of Ethiopian Fashion
Ethiopian fashion is often influenced by global trends. Ethiopian clothing is typically made of bright and colorful fabrics, and many Ethiopian dresses are adorned with intricate beadwork.
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Many Ethiopian designers have begun to experiment with more modern styles, incorporating elements of global fashion into their designs. This has led to a growing number of Ethiopian fashionistas who are eager to experiment with new looks. While some traditionalists may be resistant to change, there is no doubt that Ethiopian fashion is evolving.
One trend that has been particularly popular in Ethiopia in recent years is the “boho” look. This style is characterized by loose, flowing fabrics and earthy colors. It is often accessorized with handmade jewelry and belts. The boho look can be both casual and dressy, making it perfect for a variety of occasions.
Another trend that has been gaining popularity in Ethiopia is athleisure wear. This style combines elements of athletic wear with everyday clothing, resulting in comfortable and stylish outfits that are perfect for running errands or working out.
Ethiopian Designers and the Global Market
The artistic work of enterprising Ethiopian artisans contribute modern and cosmopolitan designs for the global market. From the traditional Tibeb to multi-colored cloths of Shamma, designers and artisans are turning the local traditional style into a glamorous brand of sophistication.
Most of the budding local designers were birthed from a hope that in the course of creating quality designs,, an avenue for income and economic growth could be created. They are out not only to brand their product but also to brand the country.
Few of such designers have tweaked their quality, design and colour to appeal to consumers outside of Africa. Models with international fame also support the local fashion industry by patronising local designers.
Liya Kebede, one of the renowned models launched her own fashion line called Lemlem incorporating indigenous fashion into her famous collections. Her collections embraced the traditional hand-woven style with the aim of offering employment and business opportunities tolong-established weavers.
These designs and accessories are made from rayon purchased from Merkato, the largest open-air market in Africa. The wears are made traditionally from spinning the cotton using a simple drop spindle to make the thread.
Local companies are partnering with other African designers to showcase their designs in events like the fashion weeks in Milan, Paris, New York amongst others. ZAAF, known for leather products such as wallets, totes, and backpacks, partnered with Korto Momolu to display its collection at the biggest fashion event.
With such initiative designers are introducing new styles with the ambitious plan of making Habesha clothing’s an everyday choice merging Ethiopian fabrics with modern fashions.
