In the vibrant culinary scene of Washington D.C., Doro Soul Food brings a unique and exciting twist to traditional American soul food, infusing it with the rich flavors of Ethiopia. This innovative restaurant is the brainchild of Michelin-starred Chef Elias Taddesse, a two-time restaurateur and a rising star in the D.C. dining world.
A plate of Doro Wat, a traditional Ethiopian chicken stew.
Chef Elias Taddesse: A Culinary Journey
Ethiopian-born and French-trained, Chef Elias Taddesse blends his diverse culinary experiences to create something truly special. He honed his skills in Michelin-starred kitchens in France and New York, including the elite Caviar Russe. Taddesse also grew up eating Popeye’s after-school sandwiches in Minneapolis, and he draws inspiration from these experiences.
Before launching Doro Soul Food, Chef Elias started his culinary journey with a pop-up in 2016 at Neal Place Tap & Garden. Later that year, he started a burger pop-up called Salt n’ Pepper Burgers at Harvey’s Market butcher shop in Union Market. In January 2017, Elias moved his pop-up to Wet Dog Tavern with the new name Melange, which became a brick & mortar restaurant in 2020.
Doro Soul Food: A Virtual Food Hall Experience
Doro Soul Food initially opened as a takeout and delivery-only concept in a virtual food hall near Howard University (1819 7th Street NW) on November 17. Three years later, the burger bar moved to a tiny takeout-only space in Shaw with his new Doro Soul Food.
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Mélange Foods opens with two restaurants that are already popular with D.C. diners: Doro Soul Food, Taddesse’s riff on American soul food focused on fried chicken with Ethiopian flavors; and Mélange DC, the chef’s burger joint that pays homage to his dual identity as an Ethiopian American.
Taddesse, named Eater DC’s 2021 Chef of the Year, plans to develop all three restaurants under one roof until they’re ready to strike out on their own - kind of like baby birds leaving the nest.
The menu is designed to be wallet-friendly with fried chicken plates starting at $9 and sandwiches for $10.
Fried Chicken As Made By Marcus Samuelsson
The Menu: A Fusion of Flavors
At Doro Soul Food, the star of the show is bone-in fried and char-grilled chicken and chicken sandwiches. Taddesse plans to give the chain’s style of extra-crunchy, bone-in fried chicken and sandwiches an Ethiopian spin. Taddesse dredges Amish buttermilk-brined birds in hot oil mixed with niter kibbeh (Ethiopian clarified butter) and three styles of heat: mild, hot with berbere spice, and mouth-searing thanks to mita mita, a fiery chili blend.
- Spice Levels: Spice levels start at mild (naked) and ascend to hot (berbere) to very hot (mit mita) bathed in the chef’s own fiery sauces.
- Sides: Creative twists on classic fry joint sides (all $5) include warm cumin-scented biscuits with berbere butter, doro wat-flavored mac n’cheese, and creamy turmeric slaw.
Here's a glimpse into some of the menu highlights:
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- Doro Wat Macaroni and Cheese: Doro wat-spiced macaroni and cheese sprinkled with bread and injera crumbs.
- Warm Black Cumin Cornbread: Warm black cumin cornbread slathered with berbere butter.
- Shiro Meda Sandwich: Taddesse will serve the Shiro Meda sandwich with shredded cabbage, a zesty Ethiopian tomato salad called timatim, and a gribiche sauce, which usually accompanies poached fish.
He’s also branching out by adding a fried Atlantic cod sandwich to the menu, since so many soul food restaurants offer some sort of fried fish sandwich. It’s also a nod to the Ethiopian tradition of eating fish during fasting periods.
He’s also tinkering with adding a berbere chocolate ice cream to the menu. Berbere is an Ethiopian spice mix that includes dried chiles, Ethiopian cardamom, fenugreek, and other aromatics.
The bar menu will include charred lamb meatballs marinated in a blend of herbs and yogurt. Taddesse calls the dish “The Champ” because it won the DC Meatball Battle, a March charity event that involved seven other local chefs.
An assortment of Ethiopian spices.
More Than Just Fried Chicken
The restaurant also pays tribute to Taddesse’s time as a student in France. Moya is a throwback to Taddesse’s time as a Timberland-wearing, hip-hop music listening student in early-2000s France, where he attended culinary school at Institut Paul Bocuse, before going on to cook at several Michelin-starred restaurants in France and New York City. The international school, since renamed Institut Lyfe, attracted lots of students from Mexico.
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In Mélange Foods’ second phase, Taddesse is rolling out a bar program that includes a berbere margarita.
From MĂ©lange DC, expect the greatest hits from the 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist for Emerging Chef. The beloved dry-aged burgers include the Classic, Italian, and Double Decker.
Looking ahead, Taddesse plans on opening his long-awaited Mélange by Chef Elias as an anchor of the Bridge District development near Anacostia. The high-end restaurant combining contemporary French cuisine with traditional Ethiopian flavors is slated to open at the end of this year. “I’m just trying to cook at every level,” says Taddesse.
