The History of Downtown Lagos, Nigeria: From Fishing Village to Megacity

Lagos, the largest city in Nigeria, stands as a bustling metropolis and a prominent cultural hub, crucial to the nation’s identity. With an ever-growing population that exceeds 14 million residents, Lagos is not only the most populous city in Nigeria but also one of the fastest-growing urban areas in the world.

The city’s economic significance is unparalleled, as Lagos contributes around 30% of Nigeria's Gross Domestic Product (GDP), and is home to several major industries, including finance, information technology, and entertainment, establishing itself as a key driver of economic growth in the region.

Lagos Skyline

Early History and Colonial Influence

Lagos has a rich historical background that shapes its contemporary landscape. Originally a sleepy fishing village, the city evolved into a Portuguese trading port in the late 15th century before becoming a British colony in the 19th century. This colonial past, coupled with indigenous cultures from various ethnic groups, has created a tapestry of traditions that enrich the local culture.

The diversity of Lagos is evident in its inhabitants, who hail from various parts of Nigeria and beyond. This melting pot of cultures contributes significantly to the city’s vibrant atmosphere. The local populace celebrates a myriad of festivals, art forms, and culinary experiences, reflecting the city’s rich cultural heritage.

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Lagos emerged as a home to the Awori people, an Ijebu subgroup of the Yoruba of West Africa, in the 15th century, which is contained across the present-day Local Government Areas (LGAs) of Lagos Island, Eti-Osa, Amuwo-Odofin, and Apapa. Before the 15th century, the Awori settled on a farmstead along the coastal line, in and around which they worked and lived. Farmstead translates to Ereko in Yoruba, from which comes the Lagos indigenous name Eko.

On January 1, 1914, Lagos became Nigeria’s first capital city after the amalgamation of the Southern and Northern Protectorates. Lagos was originally named Oko, then later Eko, a Bini word that means war camp. Eko refers particularly to Lagos Island, which was the original settlement and present-day centre of the city.

Before the bombardment of Lagos by the British in 1851, the annexation of the state in 1861, and the amalgamation of the Northern and Southern protectorates in 1914, Lagos already had a rich history. The sub-group first settled at Oke Ata near Abeokuta. However, due to the infertility of the land, they moved further south. This was after a directive given by the Ifa Priest who set a bowl on the Ogun River and ordered that the destined settlement for the group is wherever the bowl sank. The bowl sank at Isheri, and the group, led by Olofin Ogunfunminire, settled at Isheri.

Oba Ado, who was the first king of Lagos, changed the name from “Oko” to “Eko” meaning “war camp.” The land area now known as Lagos Island is what was referred to as Eko in those times. The presence of the Bini’s had a profound effect on the evolution of traditional institutions in Lagos. To this day, the Oba of Lagos is the head of all the kings in the state, and his status is different from that of the other kings.

After the abolition of the slave trade, the British sought to promote legitimate trade, civilise the natives, and completely eradicate the slave trade institution which other European nations still took part in. However, absolute control of Lagos and its vast resources had to be in their hands if their mission were to be accomplished. On August 6, 1862, Lagos was officially converted into a protectorate, a British colony.

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Sir Walter Egerton, Governor of Lagos Colony at the time, fused the Lagos Colony into the Southern Protectorate in the year 1906. On January 1, 1914, Lord Frederick Lugard amalgamated both protectorates into one geographical entity, today known as Nigeria. Lagos was declared as Nigieria’s first capital city.

On May 27, 1967, Lagos was created as a state by virtue of States [Creation and Transitional Provisions] Decree Number 14 of 1967 which restructured Nigeria’s Federation into 12 states. Lagos functioned as the federal capital city, and also as the state capital city.

Imagine Lagos: Rebuilding the Past

In Imagine Lagos, Ademide Adelusi-Adeluyi argues that the invention, destruction, and reinvention of spatial markers in Lagos-the streets, markets, roads, squares, palaces, and lagoons where these encounters occurred-was crucial to negotiations over identity, power, and freedom. Streets emerge as sites of historical memories, and Adelusi-Adeluyi’s maps of the mid-nineteenth-century city reveal and catalog layers of change. A focus on the city as a whole-as both a physical and social landscape-brings us closer than ever to understanding the lives of Lagosians between 1845 and 1872.

Throughout Imagine Lagos, historical maps join other texts-including colonial correspondence and reports, missionary letters, oríkì (Yoruba praise poetry), and newspaper articles-to create a complex collage of urban life in Lagos.

Imagine Lagos Book Cover

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Lagos Island: The Heart of the City

Lagos Island is the principal and central Local Government Area (LGA) in Lagos, Nigeria. It was the capital of Lagos State until 1957. As of the preliminary 2006 Nigerian census, the LGA had a population of 209,437 within an area of just 8.7 km2.

Lagos Island is connected to the mainland by three large bridges (the Carter Bridge, the Eko Bridge, and the Third Mainland Bridge) which cross Lagos Lagoon to the district of Ebute Metta. It is also linked to the neighboring island of Ikoyi and to Victoria Island. The Lagos harbor district of Apapa faces the western side of the island. The poor eastern side of the island contains the main markets and poor housing and is overcrowded. Located on Nnamdi Azikiwe Street, Idumota, formerly Victoria St, Tom Jones Memorial hall is noteworthy as the venue of the call for positive action by zikists in November 1948. The hall was built by trustees selected by Mr Thomas Jones who died in 1913.

The Island is mainly a collection of islands that are separated from each other by creeks and are connected by bridges. This part of Lagos is the area where most business activities and entertainment events take place, as well as where most of the upscale residential areas are concentrated. The Local Government Areas (LGAs) that are considered to be on the Island include Lagos Island and Eti-Osa. The major upscale Island neighbourhoods within these LGAs include Ikoyi and Victoria Island.

Three major bridges join the Island to the Mainland. They are the Carter Bridge, which starts from Iddo; the Eko Bridge (formerly called the Second Mainland Bridge); and the Third Mainland Bridge, which passes through densely populated mainland suburbs to the Lagos Lagoon.

Lagos Island contains a central business district characterized by high-rise buildings as well as many of the city's largest wholesale marketplaces (such as the popular Idumota and Balogun Markets). It also has the National Museum of Nigeria, the Central Mosque, the Glover Memorial Hall, Christ's Church Cathedral (CMS), and the Oba's Palace (Iga Idunganran).

Another major part of Lagos Island is Marina, which borders the Idumota and Balogun markets and houses major Banking institutions.

Key Landmarks and Attractions

Lagos offers a variety of attractions that showcase its rich history and culture:

  • Freedom Park: A captivating historical site located in the heart of Lagos, originally serving as a colonial prison. The park was established to honor the liberation struggle of Nigerians and has since been transformed into a vibrant recreational area that celebrates the rich arts and culture of the nation.
  • National Museum Lagos: Stands as a cornerstone of Nigeria's cultural heritage, showcasing the rich history and diverse traditions of the nation. Established in 1957, the museum is dedicated to preserving and promoting Nigerian art and artifacts, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of the country's past.
  • Nike Art Gallery: Prominently situated in Lagos, stands as a vibrant cultural institution dedicated to promoting Nigerian art and celebrating its rich heritage. The extensive collection features works from talented Nigerian artists who employ varied media, including paintings, textiles, sculpture, and beadwork, each telling a unique story grounded in the country’s traditions.

Beyond these landmarks, the city's vibrant markets, such as Balogun, Oshodi, and Lekki, embody the spirit of the local culture, reflecting the diversity and dynamism of the city's inhabitants. These markets are more than shopping destinations; they are social hubs where communities come together to interact, share stories, and celebrate their cultural heritage.

Discover Lagos - Culture, History, and Coastal Beauty

Challenges and Modernization

Despite its growth and development, Lagos faces significant challenges. Governance standards declined when political control of Lagos, and the rest of Nigeria, came under military rule between 1966 and 1979 and again from 1984 to 1999. The result was increased pollution, congestion, and wear on infrastructure, particularly between 1970 and 1991.

The city still has far too many slums and squatter settlements, lacks a functioning public transportation system, proper traffic management, efficient waste disposal, sanitation, adequate potable water supply, and routine road maintenance. Lagos also suffers because of problems that afflict the country, such as the lack of regular electricity supply, and high rates of poverty and unemployment.

However, positive changes have taken place. Over the past 15 years, the authorities have succeeded in raising more taxes, using the money to restore basic infrastructure, expand public services, and strengthen law enforcement. Improvements include public transport and the reclamation and greening of previously disused and misused spaces below Lagos’s many flyovers, bridges, and interchanges. In addition, roads have been fixed and pavements built. In some parts of the city, there is a potable water supply, and blighted residential and commercial areas have been rebuilt.

The Third Mainland Bridge is a looping ribbon of concrete that connects Lagos Island to the continent of Africa. It was built in the nineteen-seventies, part of a vast network of bridges, cloverleafs, and expressways intended to transform the districts and islands of this Nigerian city-then comprising three million people-into an efficient modern metropolis.

Demographics and Urbanization

The population of Metropolitan Lagos is disputed. In the 2006 federal census data, the conurbation had a population of about 9 million people. However, the figure was disputed by the Lagos State Government, which later released its own population data, putting the population of Lagos Metropolitan Area at approximately 16 million. The population figure of Lagos State given by the Lagos State Government is 17,553,924.

The following table summarizes the population data from various sources:

Source Population Year
2006 Federal Census Data 9 million 2006
Lagos State Government Data 16 million N/A
Lagos State Government Figure 17,553,924 N/A
Estimated Population 28 million 2022

Daily, the Lagos area is growing by some 3,000 people or around 1.1 million annually, so the true population figure of the greater Lagos area in 2022 is roughly 28 million (up from some 23.5 million in 2018). Lagos is indigenous to the Yoruba people, and the Yoruba language is widely spoken. It is, by most estimates, one of the fastest-growing cities in the world. Lagos is experiencing a population increase of about 275,000 persons per annum due to the influx of people from other regions for economic purposes.

A cross-section of Lagos City

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