The Dark Side of Kenya: Crime, Corruption, and Safety Concerns for Travelers

While Kenya is a safe destination compared to some surrounding African countries, there are issues with crime in major cities such as Nairobi, and many government travel advisories warn travelers of the threat of terrorism. The overall 2024 crime index for Kenya is 56.8, the 34th highest in the world. However, most crime is concentrated in the cities or along the Kenya-Somalia border.

Let's examine some of the challenges and safety concerns in Kenya to help travelers make informed decisions.

Crime and Safety

Travelers will always attract unwanted attention from beggars and potential pickpockets.

Petty Crime

Nairobi has a bit of a reputation, so much so that it was nicknamed “Nairobby.” That being said, crime levels and safety have very much improved over recent years. Violent crime is rare but petty crime can still be an issue. In general, petty crime involves pickpocketing and theft, and on rare occasions can be confrontational. As such, it is important to be aware of your surroundings and belongings on public transportation and in crowded places in any urban setting. Pickpocketing isn’t uncommon in crowded clubs and festivals. For the most part, I walk freely in Nairobi and other Kenyan towns during the day. I feel comfortable and have personally had no issues.

Neighborhoods to Avoid

A couple of neighborhoods in Nairobi should generally be avoided if you’re going on your own. These neighborhoods include Kibera, which is the largest slum in East Africa and downtown Nairobi, including the infamous River Road. While, like all areas of Nairobi, crime rates are improving in these spots, it still can be an issue. The neighborhoods are crowded and not typically areas where tourists go, so you may draw attention unwittingly. However, if you are interested in experiencing some of these neighborhoods, I would recommend finding a walking tour.

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Food and Water Safety

While it’s not a major cause for concern, be aware of what food you eat and where, like in most countries. Kenya has an incredible amount of fresh local fruits, like pineapple, passion fruits, mango, and avocado. All peeled fruits are safe to eat. Proceed with more caution when it comes to fruits and vegetables that aren’t peeled or cooked. I don’t avoid them all together but I’m more selective with where I eat them. From Nairobi to the coast, there are plenty of fantastic restaurants serving salads and vegetable-abundant dishes from the growing number of local farms.

A fruit and vegetable market in Nairobi.

Don't drink tap water unless it has been boiled or purified. Carry a reusable water bottle and purification tablets or a water filter bottle, such as the Grayl water bottle, and keep it topped up with purified water to avoid buying bottled water. If you’re out of water, most restaurants sell bottled water. Planning a trip to Kenya?

Health Risks

Certain areas of Kenya are at high risk for malaria, while others are not. The coast and Lake Victoria generally have the highest incidences of malaria. Nairobi is typically a low-risk area for malaria. Malaria-carrying mosquitos only come out in the evening so wearing light layers during these hours can reduce the risk of infection, along with some applying mosquito repellent. Most beds are equipped with mosquito nets for protection while sleeping. If you do suspect that you are showing signs of malaria (fever, low energy, chills, lack of appetite-similar to typical flu symptoms that occur in two-day cycles), it’s best to get tested. Generally, I found the clinics and health care systems in Kenya quite good and definitely better than those in other East African countries. Particularly in Nairobi, you’ll be able to find a large concentration of hospitals and clinics that can support you should you need to seek medical attention.

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Political Stability

Political tensions can run high in Kenya. While it is unlikely you’ll encounter political violence, stay connected to local news to be aware of current situations while in the country. Avoid protests and demonstrations should any take place, as they run the risk of turning volatile or violent. It’s best not to travel during a general election as well, to play it safe.

Transportation Hazards

Motorcycles are a common form of public transportation and a quick and easy way to get around Nairobi’s insane traffic. However, many of the roads are under construction or potholed, and motorcycles are competing with trucks, cars, and a lot of crazy road rules (or rather, lack thereof). Having a helmet with you is really important if you plan on catching motos.

Outdoor Activities

With the exception of a few hills on the outskirts of Nairobi, hiking and wild camping are fairly crime-free in Kenya-and a fantastic way to experience this East African country. Your bigger concerns are wildlife and nature. If you’re planning to take on more challenging, high-altitude hikes like Mount Kenya, come prepared with warm clothes to protect against freezing temperatures and rain, as well as adequate food and water, and medicine for altitude sickness as a precaution. On the other extreme, spots like Lake Magadi near the Tanzania border can experience extremely hot temperatures. For hikes and camping in those regions, it is important to bring shade, water, and electrolytes in case of dehydration. When it comes to wild camping in places like Tsavo National Park and near other nature reserves, be aware that wildlife lives there.

Hiking in Hell's Gate National Park, Kenya.

Terrorism

Although there have been a handful of isolated attacks in Kenya by Al Shaabab from neighboring Somalia, these incidences are rare. Borders with South Sudan, Sudan, and Somalia should be avoided unless going with a local guide, as localized conflict may spill across.

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LGBTQ+ Considerations

Despite the government laws against LGBTQ+ relationships, Nairobi has a fairly prominent LGBTQ+ community.

Advice for Female Travelers

For the most part, female travelers to Kenya will have a trouble-free trip. There have been reports of women experiencing harassment by men. Avoid hanging out at the beach or walking around alone at night. Take a taxi if you plan to head out at night, even if you are with others. And as you would at home or anywhere else, avoid getting too intoxicated.

Nairobi and the central areas of coastal towns like Diani and Watamu are quite western and I dress as I would in Europe or the US. In rural regions, more conservative dress - think loose long dresses and skirts, or loose pants and tops - is best to be culturally sensitive and draw less attention.

Corruption in Kenya

Corruption in Kenya has a history that spans the era of the founding president Jomo Kenyatta, to Daniel arap Moi's KANU, Mwai Kibaki's PNU governments. In Transparency International's 2024 Corruption Perceptions Index, Kenya scored 32 on a scale from 0 ("highly corrupt") to 100 ("very clean"). When ranked by score, Kenya ranked 121st among the 180 countries in the Index, where the country ranked first is perceived to have the most honest public sector.

For comparison with regional scores, the average score among sub-Saharan African countries was 33.

Index Score Rank
Corruption Perceptions Index 2024 32 121st out of 180
Sub-Saharan Africa Average 33 N/A

Most bribes paid by urban residents in Kenya are fairly small but large ones are also taken - bribes worth over KSh.50,000/= (€297.59, US$324.89) account for 41% of the total value. Despite market reforms, several business surveys reveal that business corruption is still widespread and that companies frequently encounter demands for bribes and informal payments to 'get things done' in Kenya, a trend that has contributed to an increased cost of doing business in Kenya. The public procurement sector in Kenya suffers widespread corruption and is the leading form of graft in the public service and is always at the centre of all major corruption scandals.

Despite positive developments, the Kenya Anti-Corruption Commission (KACC) was disbanded and replaced by the newly instated Ethics and Anti-Corruption Commission (EACC) on 5 September 2011. On 22 July 2019, Kenya's finance minister Henry Rotich became the country's first sitting minister to be arrested for corruption. This followed an order by the director of public prosecution (DPP), Noordin Haji, for the arrest and prosecution of Mr.

Historical Corruption Scandals

  • Between 1986 and 1991 the construction of the Turkwel Hydroelectric Power Station was riddled with claims of corruption.
  • The Turkwell Gorge Hydro Electric Dam Project was commissioned in 1986 and completed by French company Spie Batignolles in 1991.
  • In March 2002 in High Court Case No. 2143 of 1999, Nicholas Biwott successfully sued the People's Daily Newspaper over libel after the paper published a story accusing him of colluding with the French firm to award it the contract in disregard of due process.
  • The longest-running scandal is the Goldenberg scandal, where the Kenyan government subsidized exports of gold, paying exporters in Kenyan shillings (KSh.) 35% over their foreign currency earnings. In this case, the gold was smuggled from Congo.
  • A KSh.360 million/= helicopter servicing contract in South Africa.
  • A KSh.4.1 billion/= Navy ship deal.
  • The construction of Nexus, a secret military communication centre in Karen, Nairobi.
  • In 2005 plans to buy a sophisticated £20 million stg. passport equipment system from France, as the government wanted to replace its passport printing system, created conditions for a corruption scandal.

Mega corruption scandals hit Kenya in 2018. In July 2019, the director of public prosecution, Noordin Haji uncovered a mega-graft scandal on the procurement of two dams. The graft case led to the Kenyan public purge losing KSh.19 billion/=. The Arror and Kimwarer dams scandals is one of the major corruption sagas that characterised former president Uhuru Kenyatta and his deputy William Ruto's (now president) government.

Efforts to Combat Corruption

Despite corruption being rampant in Kenya, the country has had an anti-corruption legislation dating back to 1956. The Ethics and Anti-Corruption Commission has also provided a framework for reporting cases of graft in the Government and the public Sector. In an effort to curb corruption and promote ethics and integrity in the public service, all senior civil servants in Kenya are required to declare their wealth. In 2015 President Uhuru Kenyatta, in a bold move to tame the massive corruption that has tainted his first term in office, asked all public officials, who had adversely been named in a graft report handed to him by the EACC, to step aside and pave way for investigations.

The office of the director of public prosecutions, whose core functions include prosecution of those charged by the police and other investigative agencies with criminal offences, has also helped in the war against graft. Some of the governors who have been charged with misappropriation of public funds include; Migori governor Zachary Okoth Obado, Nairobi governor Mike Sonko, Kiambu governor Ferdinard Waititu, Samburu governor Moses Kasaine and Tharaka Nithi governor Muthomi Njuki. The Civil society in Kenya has been at the fore front of fighting graft in the country. According to the Ethics and Anti-Corruption Commission, Kenya is losing an estimated KSh.608 billion/= (7.8% of the country's GDP) to corruption annually.

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