African wax prints, also known as Dutch wax prints or Ankara, are a prevalent type of clothing material in West Africa. These industrially produced, colorful cotton cloths with batik-inspired printing have become a symbol of African fashion and cultural identity. One distinctive feature of these fabrics is the consistent color intensity on both the front and back sides.
Wax prints serve as a form of nonverbal communication among African women, conveying messages to the world. Some prints are named after personalities, cities, buildings, sayings, or occasions. The producer's name, product name, and design registration number are printed on the selvage, ensuring design protection and fabric quality.
Ankara fabric is a textile made in the capital city of Nigeria, which is also called "Ankara". The exterior of Ankara fabric is made with a mixture of wax and resin, and its interior is usually a mixture of cotton and linen. Ankara fabric has a unique and bold pattern design which is one of the reasons why it is constantly used in African print and fashion.
Ankara fabric is a part of African tradition and culture. It is one of the ways in which African traditions are being upheld and kept alive. Since Ankara fabric is a traditional fabric in Nigeria, it's widely used in the Nigerian fashion industry. It's not really a surprise why people have a strong desire to wear Ankara fabric and prints.
For example, the durability and affordability of the fabric make it an ideal choice for designers. Ankara fabric is also a great choice for fashionistas who like to express their African pride. And it's no secret that African fashion is becoming a popular trend.
Read also: Latest Ankara Designs
Ankara fabric and prints provide a great opportunity for fashion designers to experiment with different colour combinations. For instance, popular fashion designer, Duro Olowu, used Ankara to create an African print top for his Spring 2015 collection. Another popular fashion designer, J.W. The use of Ankara fabric and prints can also be seen in other contemporary fashion designs.
Ankara fabrics, also known as African wax prints, are a vibrant and colorful textile that originated in Indonesia and has become a staple in African fashion. These fabrics are typically made from 100% cotton and feature bold, intricate designs that reflect the culture and traditions of the African people.
One of the most unique aspects of Ankara fabrics is their versatility. One of the most popular ways to incorporate Ankara fabrics into your wardrobe is through a traditional African dress or skirt. These garments are often made from multiple panels of Ankara fabric sewn together, resulting in a colorful and eye-catching piece of clothing. They can be dressed up or down, making them a versatile addition to any wardrobe.
In addition to clothing, Ankara fabrics can also be used to create stunning accessories. Many people use these fabrics to make purses, scarves, and headwraps, adding a pop of color and pattern to any outfit. These accessories are also a great way to incorporate a touch of African culture into your everyday wardrobe.
Ankara fabrics can also be used to add a vibrant touch to home decor. If you're looking to add some Ankara fabrics to your wardrobe or home, you have come to the right place. Our fabrics are very popular with a wide range of customers. For every project, big or small, we always have a suitable Ankara fabric for sale. Our collection literally contains fabrics in all colors.
Read also: Traditional Meets Modern: Ankara Styles
The big advantage of our offer of Ankara fabrics, is that we sell the fabrics from pieces of 1 yard ( 91cm ). So you do not have to buy the whole 6 yards, and you can buy small pieces of different fabrics. African Ankara fabrics are used for making clothes, headwear, quilts and patchwork. The fabrics are also popular for artistic projects, such as wall art, lampshades, upholstering furniture, making curtains and much more!
Ankara fabric and prints have become a big hit in the world of fashion. And it's no surprise why it has become so popular. It's versatile, durable and affordable. Plus, it holds so much African pride.
African Ankara Wax Fabrics are renowned for their vibrant colors, bold patterns, and cultural significance. As fashion trends evolve, new designs continually emerge, captivating enthusiasts and designers alike.
As the fashion landscape continues to evolve, these top 10 trending African Ankara wax fabric designs showcase the dynamic fusion of tradition and modernity, inspiring creativity and celebrating cultural heritage.
The History and Origins of Ankara Fabric
The process to make wax print is originally influenced by batik, an Indonesian (Javanese) method of dyeing cloth by using wax-resist techniques. For batik, wax is melted and then patterned across the blank cloth. From there, the cloth is soaked in dye, which is prevented from covering the entire cloth by the wax.
Read also: History of Ankara Textiles
During the Dutch colonization of Indonesia, Dutch merchants and administrators became familiar with the batik technique. Thanks to this contact, the owners of textile factories in the Netherlands, such as Jean Baptiste Theodore Prévinaire and Pieter Fentener van Vlissingen, received examples of batik textiles by the 1850s if not before, and started developing machine printing processes which could imitate batik.
Prévinaire's attempt, part of a broader movement of industrial textile innovation in Haarlem, was the most successful. Unfortunately for the Dutch, these imitation wax-resist fabrics did not successfully penetrate the batik market.
Starting in the 1880s, they did, however, experience a strong reception in West Africa when Dutch and Scottish trading vessels began introducing the fabrics in those ports. Initial demand may have been driven by the taste for batik developed by the Belanda Hitam, West Africans recruited between 1831 and 1872 from the Dutch Gold Coast to serve in the Dutch colonializing army in Indonesia.
The Dutch wax prints quickly integrated themselves into African apparel, sometimes under names such as "Veritable Dutch Hollandais", and "Wax Hollandais". Women used the fabrics as a method of communication and expression, with certain patterns being used as a shared language, with widely understood meanings. Many patterns began receiving catchy names.
Over time, the prints became more African-inspired, and African-owned by the mid-20th century.
Prévinaire's method for the production of imitation batik cloth proceeds as follows. A block-printing machine applies resin to both sides of the fabric. It is then submerged into the dye, in order to allow the dye to be repelled by the resin covered parts of the fabric. This process is repeated, to build up a coloured design on the fabric. Multiple wooden stamp blocks are needed for each colour within the design. Sometimes the resin on the cloth can be crinkled in order to form cracks or lines that are known as "crackles".
After a merger in 1875, the company founded by Prévinaire became Haarlemsche Katoenmaatschappij (Haarlem Cotton Company).
Before the 1960s most of the African wax fabric sold in West and Central Africa was manufactured in Europe. The costly produced wax fabrics are increasingly imitated by alternative ways of manufacturing.
The so-called "fancy fabrics" are produced in a printing procedure. Fancy fabrics in general are cheap, industrially produced imitations of the wax prints and are based on industry print. Fancy fabrics are also called imiwax, Java print, roller print, le fancy or le légos.
These fabrics are produced for mass consumption and stand for ephemerality and caducity. Fancy Fabrics are more intense and rich in colours than wax prints and are printed on only one side. As for wax prints, producer, product name and registration number of the design are printed on the selvage.
Even the fancy fabrics vary with a certain fashion. The production of these imitation wax-print fabrics, allow those who cannot afford the European imported wax prints to be able to purchase them.
During my NYSC in Ogun State, wearing Ankara on all the days of the week was the norm. On the days I wore jeans and t-shirts or single-coloured gowns, I was the odd one out. In the town I lived in, the afternoon sky was often vivid blue and the sparse houses and domineering trees was a fitting backdrop for the bright fabrics that the people wore.
I have always been drawn to colour and owning Ankara fabric satisfies that yearn in me. Even though I like black and white pictures, I feel a certain discontent when the vibrancy of Ankara fabric is dulled using that effect. Also, the various colours and patterns of these fabrics remind me of the beauty and intricacy that human beings are capable of. And with the things I find beautiful and intricate, I am eager to learn their origin.
During my research, I was surprised to find that the Batik method of creating wax prints is of Indonesian origin.
The word ‘Batik’ originated from (the) Javanese word “amba” which means writing and “titik” which means (dot). Initially, Batik was made on the calico, using liquid wax in a canting (small dipper used to apply wax in Batik process)…Batik patterns also have meaning and symbolize something. There are numerous (types) of Batik in Indonesia, such as Batik Solo, Batik Pekalongan, Batik Cirebon, Batik Banyumas, Batik Bali, and many more…
As I researched, I learned that there are certain aspects of Indonesian fashion that is closely mirrored in African fashion. For instance, they have their version of Akwete which is called Ulos and Adire which is called Sasirangan.
Also, the earliest history of Batik dates back to 4th century BC Egypt where it was used in the mummification process (if you look back far enough, everything started in Africa lol.) Till date though, it is most highly developed in Java, Indonesia.
Before Dutch colonisation of Indonesia, Batik was primarily made and sold in Indonesia and other parts of Asia. Seeing its worth, they began working on a machine that could duplicate the effect of Batik. They hoped their version would outsell the Indonesian Batik in the Indonesian market and after producing some resin-coated Batik fabrics, they tried to sell them in the Indonesian market. It failed to garner the desired sales because it did not match up to the real Batik in quality or have the distinguishing wax smell that the Indonesian Batik fabrics had.
By 1880, Dutch and Scottish traders began introducing the fabrics to the ports in West Africa and here, they found success. Research suggests that this success might have in part, been due to the fashion taste of the “Black Dutchmen” - a group of West African Dutch soldiers called Belanda Hitam in Indonesia who served between 1831 and 1872 in the Dutch colonising army of Indonesia and later retired to Elmina, modern-day Ghana.
Some of the fabrics were given different names based on their patterns and those names still hold till today. Two popular ones are Kri-Kri star (tiny stars) and Mkpuru Oka (corn seeds). These fabrics are worn by different cultural and religious sects in West Africa and seeing a group of people in a certain fabric connotes that an event or gathering might be taking place.
For the Catholic Women Organisation in some parts of Igbo land, the Mkpuru Oka Abada fabric or the CWO uniform (also made of customized Ankara fabric) is worn to attend wakes and a member may be fined if she fails to wear hers to such a gathering.
This uniformity in dressing has also become a cultural staple amongst many tribes in Nigeria and West Africa. In many Yoruba weddings, burial ceremonies, birthday celebrations and so on, Asoebi - which is usually an Ankara print fabric, is worn to commemorate and show unity at these events.
Till date, the highest grade of wax prints (Vlisco) being sold in Africa is of Dutch origin. The popular and affordable Hi-target is of Chinese origin. There are a few African brands such as DaViva in Nigeria and Sotiba Simpafric in Dakar, Senegal that sell quality fabrics.
In all my research, I could not find the exact reason why it is called Ankara. I did see though, that Ankara is the name of the method used in the making of the materials in some parts of Africa.
Popular Ankara Fabric Designs and Their Meanings
In Ghana, this design is called Nsu Bra, named after the Akan word for 'water well.' The interlocking circles or ovals symbolize water ripples, representing the ripple effect of one’s actions on others. In Nigeria, this design is called 'Record' due to the circular pattern resembling old vinyl records.
In Ghana, this design is named Sika Wo Ntaban, translated as 'Money has wings.' It signifies the fleeting nature of wealth with the phrase 'rich today, poor tomorrow,' suggesting that money can easily disappear or fly away if not managed wisely.
In Ghana, this design is known as 'Aniwa.' This Akan word for 'Eye' symbolizes the need to be cautious with one's actions. It implies that even if people are silent, they are observing, especially when wrongdoing occurs. In Nigeria, this design is called 'Eyes,' inspired by the eye drawing. In Ivory Coast, it is known as 'L’Oeil de Boeuf' (Bull’s Eye) or 'Lisu ya Pité' (Lustful Eye).
'Fleurs de Mariage (Wedding Flowers),' also known as 'Rolls Royce' and 'Mgbolodi,' is a popular African fabric featuring floral patterns. It symbolizes marital happiness, beauty, and new beginnings. The design is believed to bring success and wealth to the wearer and their family, which might explain the 'Rolls Royce' moniker.
In the Igbo language of eastern Nigeria, 'Akpirikpa Azu' means 'fish scale,' reflecting its resemblance to tilapia fish scales.
The fabric design known as 'Conseille' or 'Macaroni' has different names in various regions.
The ‘Kwadusa’ design, translated as ‘banana hand,’ symbolizes a bunch of bananas. In Togo, it's called ‘Abobo To Lé Gomè,’ referring to the snail out of its shell, and is associated with the Abobozan festival where snail dishes are enjoyed, and the fabric is favored.
This heritage design is known locally by the Igbo tribe in Nigeria as the ‘Kilikili Star,’ or ‘Small Star.’ Legend has it that the design originates from the story of the King of Moonland who demanded a mirror to shine like the sun.
In some cultural contexts, Sucre fabric is offered as part of a dowry, symbolizing the enduring sweetness and prosperity of the marital bond. It serves as a heartfelt wish for the longevity and happiness of the bride and groom as they embark on their journey together.
Table of Ankara Fabric Designs and Their Meanings
| Design Name | Meaning/Symbolism | Cultural Context |
|---|---|---|
| Nsu Bra (Ghana) / Record (Nigeria) | Ripple effect of actions | Akan culture (Ghana), General use in Nigeria |
| Sika Wo Ntaban (Ghana) | Fleeting nature of wealth | Akan culture (Ghana) |
| Aniwa (Ghana) / Eyes (Nigeria) / L’Oeil de Boeuf (Ivory Coast) | Caution and observation | Akan culture (Ghana), General use in Nigeria, Ivory Coast |
| Fleurs de Mariage / Rolls Royce / Mgbolodi | Marital happiness and new beginnings | Various African cultures |
| Akpirikpa Azu | Resemblance to fish scales | Igbo culture (Nigeria) |
| Conseille / Macaroni | Varies by region | Various African cultures |
| Kwadusa (Ghana) / Abobo To Lé Gomè (Togo) | Banana hand / Snail out of its shell | Ghana, Togo |
| Kilikili Star | Small Star | Igbo culture (Nigeria) |
| Sucre | Sweetness and prosperity of the marital bond | Dowry ceremonies |
History of Ankara Fabrics and it Origin | African print fabric history
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